cherokee

Straight engagement lever for the tcase?

Almost done (theoretically anyways) with my MJ project, but I've got some wiring issues. This is the first time it's had 12v power in well over a year. I have no brake lights or parking lights. The rear lights will light up when the headlights or hazard flasher is turned on. The hazard flasher does not cause the lights to flash. Brake lights don't come on when the pedal is pressed. The turn signal lights in the dash will light up solid when the hazard flasher or headlights are turned on. No fuses have blown. I kept the wiring as stock as possible with some exceptions. The headlight and taillight harnesses were rewired. For the headlight harness I followed the pattern of a 95XJ headlight harness with blinking side markers. For the taillight harness I followed the original MJ pattern with new bulb sockets. The engine bay harness and under dash harness were replaced with an automatic's harnesses that didn't have the fusebox/clutch fluid problem. The truck is now an automatic too. The steering column is still the original from a manual. The cargo light has been turned into a 3rd brake light that uses a splice to the switch on the brake pedal arm as the 'signal' wire. Most if not all of the bulbs in the truck have been switched to LED bulbs. I'll admit that might be the cause to the problem. I've checked the tail light, engine block, and engine bay grounds. Those seemed good. Forgot to check the dash ground. Any help or ideas about what to check are appreciated.

I used the rear bracket and didn't notice that large of a gap between the carpet and center console.

You rang? I'd check it out for ya sinkrun if I was headed that way anytime soon. Seems like I'm always going north instead of south though.

grab both power switches from the 2dr.

somehow, that looks right and wrong at the same time.

It was only a few years ago that the buffalo area had over a foot of snow in mid october. At least it was only about an inch this time.

Still valid for the 97 w/ a 242 that I had. I even kept the visor sticker actually.

Well, I didn't find 'em on my first trip into town, I'll see how I do tomorrow. Should be 1/2-20 (not 7/16 :doh: ) and about 1/2" or 5/8" long. Wildman, I can't have taken them all, I haven't taken any of these particular bolts yet! :D

Actually, I have those bolts as they're in one of the torque converter's I have. I appreciate the information though.

Anybody happen to know the size of them? Are they special bolts? All motors and trans I've gotten as parts/spares have had this stuff removed, so I haven't a clue if I'd even have the right ones. And the original drivetrain was a manual and not in my possesion anymore either.

You would probably be ok with shocks meant for 0-3" of lift. In fact (at least for the front), you'll find that the extended and compressed measurements for a shock sold for a 3" lift will match or be extremely close to the stock shock measurements. The gabriel shock co. has (or used to at least) an online pdf file of specs for all the shocks they make. Too bad I never liked their shocks.

The washer bottle needs to be moved forward a bit too. Or at least I had to move mine forward about a 1/4" when I did this swap.

I thought about a washer but didn't like the looks of how little of the hub would be supporting the bearing. Looks like I'll try the stealership next. Tried all 3 of the local parts places (Napa, CQ, Autozone) and they all tried to sell me the same plastic part.

have tried two different parts stores that had the exact same pulley that would not work because it locks solid to the dust cover/hub when the bolt is tightened down. Anyone know of a place to get a good a/c idler pulley?

sort of looks like a broken knock sensor and the o2 sensor plug... that's actually normally in the area of the driver's side motor mount.

Only because I put some of those parts on yours shelves myself. :rotfl2:

check the stickied bolt thread

Anybody ever solve the problem of a 'new' (i.e. non-renix) head not having the same location for the temp sensor? A simple adapter threaded into the new t-stat housing doesn't leave the old style sensor at the same depth.

You need to spend more time at Wildman's shop then, he has baskets of parts already. :rotf:

It's possible that the door lock cylinders from the 94 XJ will be a different size. I have a 95 XJ door on my MJ and discovered that the original lock cylinder was larger than the new hole. Took a little while to file the door so the original lock would fit. So in your case it might be a little loose rather than too tight. Doesn't hurt to try though.

Looks like the cable I have is the incorrect one. Went to put it in and even with the shifter end 4" away from the shifter itself the other end was nearly up at the engine bay frame rail. :doh: For the record, it's a ball/socket at both ends, 55" in length. I should have measured the H.O. shifter cable I have too, but it was obviously much shorter than 55".

It was enough of a difference to make up a nearly 1 foot round loop of extra cable. I had visions of a hanging footrest to catch a foot at the wrong time. Although at least I know I don't have the cables confused, mine has a ball/socket joint on each end. I'll have to measure my cable.

Anybody know what the end to end lengths of each are? I'm not sure what exactly I have now as the parts house replacement for a floor shift cable (for a renix xj, should be the same right?) was considerably longer than the cable I have. Although I guess it's possible I got a column shift cable somehow.

Taps and dies, calipers and thread gauges to give an educated guess on which to try to clean threads with.