Joop

This thread leally need an update, and %?«* to photobucket! I just parked my jeep after 6520km all around the northern parts of norway, sweden and finland. Now it has 3" lift, new 33"rubber on my old chrome wheels, new axels amc20 rear with Ected lsd/locker and onepiece d30 front with truetrack, both 4,88. Roof top tent fitted on a nice homemade bed top. And bushwacker flares. Also had my first meet with another CC member, Roar, who has a build thread somewhere her. If you read this, please post some pictures! By posting this from my phone i hope to give myself a kick in the @@s so i bother to pick up my laptop and post some more tomorrow!

I used biltema's o ring kit to fix some leaking injectors once. It wasnt a perfect fit but it worked. I think you should be able to find a biltema in sweden....

Spraybottle with a mixture of soap and wather. Spray it over every pipe, hose and component. Both with the system off and running. Leaks will create bubbles. Sniffers and uv light will never pinpoint the exact leakagepoint like soapbubbles can! Just look closely and take your time...

Hvordan går det med comanchen? Nice to see another norwegian here. Where do you live, far up north? Thats what facebook and the postal code on the picture from rockauto says... I'm planning a camping trip up to kirkenes this summer and can bring some parts from my pile if you need anything!

Bought my roof top tent a couple of weeks ago. Made a temporary setup with some 2-4 and jackstraps over the bedrail. Only sleept in it one night, planning to take a short trip during easter. Also working on a more permanent installation. Will have that ready by summer then I'm heading out there for weeks of fishing, camping and exploring! My goal is to ship the rig over to iceland and spend a couple of weeks there, but it doesnt look like it will be this summer. Think it the same as the tepui tents just sold under a different name.

I use amber bulbs in the backup lights wired as turn signals and a cheap clear light on the bumper wired as backup light and additional turn signals above the front wheels. The fog light issue i have never heard about before, and my mj passed inspection without them. No i don't live in spain but EU should in theory follow the same standard regulations when it comes to motorized veicles. So i just want to warn you, do your research well and see if you can get in touch with some local jeep or classic/muscle car club, they usually know the rules about importing US cars pretty well. There might be rules about lift, tires, engine swaps etc, but there might also be an exception for all thoose rules for foreigners bringing their own car, or cars older than 30 years! I remember a US citizen bringing his mildly buildt jeep to norway a couple of years ago who had to give up and ship it back because the paperwork to license a modified veicle was just unbelievable!

O2 sensor! A poor connection or the sensor is just about to give up. Unplug it an see if its driveable then. It will still have poor idle but you should be able to drive it but mpg would be way off... O2 sensors is about the only thing that will give problems in repeating cycles on a renix. Its the closed vs open loop cycle. If it works just fine when cold or when you floor it at high rpm thats even more hints its the O2 sensor.

Eagle, just to clear things up. The whole point by doing my procedure is you don't trip the plunger. Just follow the brakelines on an MJ and imagine how the brake pressure goes and you will see how it will work. In normal operation brake pressure goes out the nose of the block, to the load sensing valve, via the T coupler from the bypass line and out to the wheels. That means the same pressure will also act backwards towards the distribution block through the bypass line, but it has nowhere to go since it end up between the two o-rings you mention. Air trapped here will stay here forever and thats kinda the whole reason behind this discussion. By loosening the nut under the block you will backflush the bypass line, rear to front, using the reduced brake pressure from after the load valve.

The fsm bleeding procedure is unnessecary tricky. Do a regular bleed on the rear brakes, then loosen the nut on the bypass line under the distribution block and bleed that line, this will push the air the shortest way out and not into the brake cylinders. Then do another one on the rear brakes again just to be shure.

What we use on many formula offroad rigs is just regular vented front disk from whatever make and model your axles are, machined down into one layer solid disks. Typicaly with volvo 850 rear calipers or any other dual side piston, non sliding caliper. Do this on all four corners and it give plenty stopping power for a few dollars for most offroad/4x4 scenarios. Much cheaper than the typical wilwood alternative. Calipers and pads are in stock at any parts store and disks just doesnt breake that often, you could probably run them untill you retire and still have miles left.

Does anyone remember the size and lenght of the three bolts that holds the front wheel hubs? Just realized i have a desperate need to replace my u joints as soon as possible and i don't like the standard bolts, the heads get worn down to easy. Might as well get new bolts as well when when I'm at it.

Feels good to see someone else posting this, that means I'm not the only one here weird enough to enjoy x-files long after it went of the air.

Now that i have a working laptop its all so much easier! Pictures are a few months old, now the exterior is almost complete, need to weld up a custom rear bumper that goes well with the trimming i did. Also need a new exhaust and replace some rusty brake lines and worn out bushings. Then I'm ready for inspection and getting my license plates back. A week after these pictures where taken i had i up and running good enough to get temporary test driving plates and attended Hot August Nights, a weekend long celebration of everything on wheels made in USA, hosted by american car club of norway. Off course i was the only one with a Comanche! Reason for posing next to my alfa is because I once said to myself o would never have a red car or anything made in italy, well now i have two red cars both owned by fiat.... Also had to rewire the entire light system on the jeep. Common problem with owning an american car over here is the dealer do a hack-n-tap job rewiring it to EU light specs. And after a few years of use that just falls a part causing all kinds of bugs. Might as well start from scratch. Interiour still looks like $#!&, and I dond know if I care? But I will be more carefull to roll up my windows so the cat doesn sleep there every night.

Complete failure...

Just testing if i can post from my phone and if remember how it was done

Most likely part number 7700727641 and its called a "tbo216". Wouldnt a t3t4 be too big?? Remember when in doubt about these engines, Google j8s, thats the manufacturers (Renault) designation for them.

Bought this one a month ago. Had no need for it, but the prize was right and I'm SO ready for a new DD. The prize was right too.. Its a 90 4.0/aw4/4x4/SWB/d44 Plans for it so far: * Finish the rust removal/paint job started by previous owner. * Fix a random-stall issue with the engine. * Replace hack-job exhaust * Replace non-existing headliner and cracked up seats * 3" lift?? * 31" or 33" tires?? * lock-right in the rear * DRIVE IT!! The day I got it Driver's side sandblasted and primed. All work done by prewious owner was crap and had to be redone. Found lots of rust under the gray primer! Passenger side, a couple of days job left here... Engine looks great! Cleaned up the seats from the diesel, maroon seats with tan interior might look horrible, but thats all i have for now. Now for the scary part.... Can anyone see something wrong in this picture, or is it just me?? Looks like the frame is twisted :eek: It was crashed on the front right corner 12 years ago, and it looks like it caused some serious damage! I can't find any cracks or bends on the frame, and it runs straight, so I'm going to pretend i didnt see this. :nuts: After all, if its caused by said crash it has been driven like this for 12 years....

A little hard to see from the pictures only, but looks like it draws in hot air by the fan an then push it trough the oil cooler, witch is cooled by the bilge pump circulating ice wate from the tank. Then the cooled air is pushed trough the pipe bends towards whoever needs it. A simple and good idea, if you have enough ice water.... Having worked at a melting plant where air temperatures often raised above 80*C and then later on as a AC/refrigeration engineer I now understand both the importance off good AC and the complexity of making it work at thoose temperatures! Tell me what you want and how you want it to work and maybe I can crunch some numbers for you and give you some ideas what to do :brows:

Lada Niva was the first real 4x4 i ever drove, and it plantet the seed for my passion for offroading. Funny experience to drive a car when you have to guess what gauges and controles means, everthing was написанных на странных русских букв :dunno: :help: :rotf:

I really hope you are right! That be if I actually can sell it. Not shure if i can, it means too much to me. I know that ol'swede inside out, upside down and it has never let me down! That and swedish engineers actually know how to wire a car, something I can't say about Jeep engineers....

No, only about 5-6% of them :cheers:

When someone says that, they usually have twice as many as we first tought. Kinda like when you ask your girl how much she spent on shopping, or when your girl ask you how many beers you had :brows:

Because I have no need for 5 cars, the reasonable thing to do would be to sell it and use the money to fix up my other 2 MJ's. But now that I have driven it, theres NO WAY I'm gonna sell it before I have to!! Looks like the volvo will be up for sale soon instead... Me for the first time in over a year -------->

Just bought my 3rd MJ :D Paid and signed the paperwork, just need to drive it home. 1990, 4.0L, SWB, D44, rollbar. Looks a little rough but thats because previus owner startet stripping it down to deal with some rust and paint it, but never got time to finish it. I would say thats its less than a week of work left (and I have 3 weeks holiday starting today) Except from the surface rust on the door and fenders, there is very little rust on it. Engine starts right up and settles at a nice, purring idle. Interior is ugly and worn out, but i have a complete spare interior. Not quite shure what to do with it yet, but thinking about finishing the rust-work, paint it and drive it. If not I could sell it as it is for 3x what i paid. If i fix it i could sell it for atleast 6x!!

can't see why i can't be done as long as you use an old school, mechanicly injected diesel. But it might be hard to start when cold. I have an old 7.3 idi ford van with dual tanks, one is with regular diesel for start and stop, the other one is filled with whatever waste oil i can get. (I have an almost unlimited supply of waste mineral oil) I just filter it and pour it in the tank and add minimum 1/3 diesel just to get it flowing a little easyer. can't feel any difference in power when switching between the two tanks, but it takes some time to start it if i forget to switch over to pure diesel the last mile before i park it over night. Not to forget the nasty smelling smoke when it finally fires up... Just gotta love them ol' IDI's :D Once I get the 2.1 MJ running again I'm gonna give it the same fuel, time will tell if it can take it... Bio-diesel i have no personal experience with. To me it just sound like a whole lot of work. don't you have to threat it in a special way to prevent it from waxing inside the tank? WMO can be used as it is if you change fuel filter often, but off course its better to filter it prior to filling up. And it can be free, if you know the right people.