Joop

My brother bought one last year. And he has, with some help from me, built it into a simple, good-looking yet capable offroad toy. List off things done to it: Calmini shackel-reversal with aprox 2" lift, lock-right rear, 31" tires, thick spacers on both sides, LR freelander fenderflares, OMP racing seats, 4point rollbar behind seats, power steering, homebuilt front bumper with winch, bigger alternator, fiberglass hardtop and a rattelcan paint job We where out wheeling along with a bunch of other people last weekend, and I borrowed it for 15minutes, 5 of thoose was driving and 10 was winching myself up again... :oops: I'm used to my LWB, low COG MJ's and just don't feel comfortable in rough terrain driving the zuki. Remember this is a SJ413 witch differs from the samurai by having EVEN NARROWER axles! But my brother drives this little rat like a champ, spinning and jumping in circles around stuck fullsize rigs, while pointing and laughing at them, asking if they need a tow or some winching. Future plans is a 4:1 transfer and swapping out the stock carb with a set of four GSX 750 mc-carbs. Some of my friends suzuki's: This one has a 1.3twincam that puts out 120ish hp and redlines close 10 000rpm! This one has toyota axles and a ford 2.9 v6. Pure trail-rig that performes very well. (still needs a Jeep to get unstuck :D )

That bolt lookes familiar, mauser m98??? http://world.guns.ru/rifle/repeating-ri ... r-9-e.html

Ohh how I wish there was a factory european rear light option for my MJ, but there is not. This is how its done in norway: Old cars (pre 197something) can use whatever equipment they came with from factory, including red rear turn signals. Cars after that date must have yellow turn signals to get a norwegian license plate. (might be an exception, at least it used too be, if you move in from another country and bring your car with you, but then is has to bee bone stock, and you have to prove it. Simple task when talking old jeeps..) Tourist or people just passing trough with red turn signals can drive as they are. What they do if there are no factory options on yellow turn signals is the dealer usually just rewire it and install some cheap turn lights somewhere else. I have seen some with "sticker" type LED turn signals just above or under the rear lights. Another solution is to put yellow bulbs in the backup lights and install and extra set of backuplights integrated in or under the bumper. Personally I removed all that crap and drive around with red turn signals. If its good enough for you its good enough for me! But if I was to do anything about it i would probably go for the last option above. 99% shure you can drive all over europe with your car as it is. Edit: I now see you want to import it to spain. Then i suggest you contact some spanish authoritys and get everything right before you bring it over.

Last can of pistonhead beer (swedish) bought a 24 when going to a formula offroad race in finland this summer. One of the best i have ever tasted, Was shure i was out of them untill mom found one last one deep frozen at our cabin today, i actually watcht it thaw for hours untill i finally could open it and drink that tasty brew :drool: Killed the waiting time drinking some other cheap local beer and some whisky from canadaland that was quite good being the cheapest one i could find. Oh, and lots of snus along with it :D Time to hit the bar and chase some fat milfs....

Here's the pictures i promised you! Found this pic online, this should clear a 4.0 Then i snapped a pic of one of mine, this one will not clear a 4.0. The difference is in the area above the transmission tunnel. And finally a closep of how i made it fit in my other 86 using a BFH. I got about 1/4" clearance between the exhaus and the firewall, not quite as much as i would like but it works. This is how i made the radiator fit And a crappy pic of how i solved the crossmember problem, this is the drivers side. It needs to be moved about 4" back and nothing is bolt on. I drilled holes straight trough the frame for the outher bolts (fully welded to the frame on both sides) and one of the inner bolts on each side i fixed to the original bracket. The inner-rear bolt on each side has nothing to bolt to, but it should be enough with just 3 bolts on each side. XJ's use only 2 after all. This is about the only fabrications that has to be done, exept from shortening your rear driveshaft. The rest is just pain-in-the-@$$ wiring. Btw, keep your original 4.10 axles. Mpg increase, if you actually get any, will not be worth the extra work. And its much more fun to drive!

Found the timing belt at rockauto, look at renault -> 1988 -> espace -> 2.1 -> engine -> timing belt (part number QTB143 or 94196) Doesnt say anything about quantity of 5. I'm not 100% shure its the right one but i know the renault espace diesels has been used as a bolt-on replacement for blown up XJ-diesels. Edit: I looked at the belt on my engine (sitting on a pallet in a dusty corner...) its 1" wide and 148 teeth, just like thoose belts above. Dunno about the tensioners, but do you really need to replace them? :hmm:

Nice truck, and welcome to the DieselComancheClub :yes: Let me know if you need any of the weird diesel-specific parts i might have something floating around. You can have them for nothing but shipping (might be expencive enough...)

Been there, done that :ack: If you wish i can snap some pictures of mine and how i made it work, but it will have to wait untill this weekend. Its in a million pieces and parked in my parents garage.

My rear-end needs new outer bearings and seals, and i have huge problems finding them online. Will bearings and seals from 2-piece CJ/SJ axle's fit in the one-piece MJ axles? Like these: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52401_0101.htm

242 4 to 1 kit: http://www.4x4now.com/4to1.htm

Bigger isnt always better! We went with the 30"s and where able to drive almost anywhere, as long as someone had driven there before us. Traction was never a problem, but floatation was. There was this long steep hill that many of the harcore buggys couldn get up, we crawled up with 4people in the xj and heater on full just laughing and pointing at them spinning their tires, throwing snow all over themself and freezing their @sses of :clapping: The Jeep is now back home to its rightfull owner without as much as a scratch on it. And we never really abused it, just used it like its supposed to.

They are from the same 1990 XJ my engine came from, best winter tires the PO ever had he said, didnt say anything about rubbing actually he called me a few weeks later and wantet to buy back the tires.. It sounds like it will be 30"'s then. Just had to ask the more experienced crowd. Wish us luck I don't want to scratch up my dads DD, It would be a :doh: moment...

Perhaps a stupid question... but is there any chance that a set of 33/12,5 - 15 will fit on a stock/no-lift xj without any fender cutting? Rubbing at full flex or steer is not an issue. Me and my brother and his GF has been looking forward to a snow-wheeling event this weekend for a long time, but since none of my MJ's are driveable we focused our energy on his suzuki sj413 (installed rear locker, 31"s, rollbar etc) Now he just called me to tell his clutch was toast and he could not get it fixed :( But our father might let us borrow his XJ, and i happend to have a set of 33" and a set of 30" on jeep rims (both good winter tires) that we could swap in just for the weekend. I ran my mj on thoose 33" without lift for a few years, rubbed like :fs1: but low COG and great floatation on the snow sort of made up for that. With the smaller rear fender of the XJ is there any chance they would fit or should we just use the 30" and stay in the trails and out of the fresh powder snow?

If I ever win the lottery my first purchase would be the XK commander with a 3.0crd. 218hp and more importan 525nm at 1600-2000rpm (more than the hemi v8!) is enough to give me a hard one. Other than that I don't care much about new jeeps, the phoenix mini makes me :nuts: :ack: :doh: :wall: . And I would use the XK as a DD and tow rig for my MJ's :D .

Learn how to drive! Thats just an average day around here. Only once have i seen a car sliding down a hill with 4 locked tires like most of those cars, and then I calmly parked my car, walked out into the road and pushed the sliding car into the ditch before he hurt someone. Then I got back into my car and drove up that same street, just to prove my point. :shake:

...or as we say, happy gray hair! :dunce: :rotfl2: :clapping: :cheers: The fireworks are done and my beer is almost gone, but I know I'm not alone :D Lets keep our Jeeps running for atleast one more year!

Found it: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1642 Thinking about something like that myself, exept I would make one channel longitudinal beetween the lover rear of the cab and the X in the frame.

I don't want to be killed and so I told him.

I know this is a poor setup, and its not what i first wanted. But its all i got at the moment. Id rather blow up the diesel and 2 np207's in the woods and have a good story for later, than to sit at home wathing tv because I don't have anything to wheel. Either way, I'm saving up money for a better drivetrain. It just won't happend this year and probably not the next.

Apparently the output shaft is made of some kind of hardened steel and can't be machined down and re-splined to match the input shaft. Did some more research about the subject and it turned out S10's from early 80s with 2.8 and auto used a 27spline input np207. So i found an input shaft for 10$ on ebay. (Even with shipping being 30$ its a steal compared to bying a complete transfer at the junkyard, they go for over 600$ over here..) Installed that input shaft in the rear transfer and startet building an adaptor from whatever junk I found at work. Here are the two transfers side by side, s10 shaft between them. The blue plate on the left case is a industrial pipe-flange with 3 holes drilled in it and boltet to the case, the steel-ring at the bottom is a 205 clock-ring i got from a friend. All thats left is to get the surfaces machined dowm, they warped a little bit during welding, and to cut off the front output of the first case and make a plate to block of the big hole. I really should write more about what i did, but my internet browser is in a crappy mood today :hateputers: anyway I tried to copy this setup http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68223

I don't know. But I'm about to find out, the hard way! Just ordered a complete 97+ front clip with doors and hood. Small update: Front axle is done for now, expect I don't have any gears for it yet. Will deal with that when I have the cash to regear the rear as well.

Did some work on the diesel today. Turns out it also has the same springs and amc20. Maybe it is some export option? Guess its time to grab a cold one and just let life go on. I have whatever springs I have, and thats it. :cheers:

D44 came in 87, 86 used amc20, and that is what i have. Did they put that axle/leaf combo in a MJ without calling it a metric ton? Just curious because my paperwork only says 700-and-something kg's as max payload.

Its been a busy summer and little work has been done on the jeep, but today I got some help and removed the bed. Very little rust on the frame, nothing that can't be fixed with a wire wheel. This really gives me the motivation to keep on working. After breaking 5 out of 10 bolts on the rear bumper, and having to grind down/torch of all bolts on the roll bar, I was getting kinda sick of this thing. :headpop:

Can anyone tell me if I have a metric ton leaf pack on my MJ??