Tracker

I have to differ on the longbed and shortbed being the same in respect to the bumper mounts. The bolt pattern is exactly the same but a bumper mount (or a hitch?) from a LWB will have to lose a little from the far end of the upper surface and be notched to clear the spring shackle bolt if it is put on a SWB. You also have to shim the mounts as the shackle hangers add a little overall width where the bracket bolts up. Not hard to make it work though. One more thing- on our '89 SWB the holes where the step bumper bolts up to were not threaded. The bosses were welded to the inner surfaces and the right sized holes were there but no threads. Still no biggy to rectify.

I bet I can beat the JY prices :popcorn:

I like the front bumper Say- your neighborhood looks awful familar. Anywhere around McClintock and Alameda?

I've always been impressed with how mellow this forum is. We come together here to learn, read, talk, and share Jeep stuff. :cheers: If anyone really needs a dose of humanity and the internet at its worse try craigslist / Los Angeles / Rant and Rave.

http://www.scottysjeepand4x4.com/ When you guys make your road trip to sunny SoCal, the land of Jeeps with no rust, put this place on you intinerary. I'm telling you- it's loaded.

Scotty's 4X4 in Fontana, Ca is a big one too. Acres of MJ's

I've never done business with them but I went to junior high and high school with the owner. Jason Bunch is a good guy, (if he's still the owner). He'll make things right if there's a problem. Google his name and look at what he did with a 2.5 TJ. I'm liking his 9 pound inertia ring that bolts to the back of a 2.5's flywheel.

My kids look at me funny :nuts: when one of those old songs starts playing and I can say all the words. I can't sing so songs like Convoy or Hot Rod Lincoln are the extent of my performances.

The 3M double sided tape has been holding my full size Dodge emblems for about 5 years now. The tape itself is white and about 1/2 inch wide and the removable backing is red on the stuff I got at Pep Boys. I've also used that glue called "Goop" which worked pretty well. It was maybe a little too strong which is why I tried the tape this time.

I used to be a jukebox mechanic so I've listened to my share of C.W. My brother and I also used to do the CB thing. I bug him about where he lives now: "...on I one - 0 'bout a mile outta Shakey Town.." :thumbsup:

Wow. My dream car. 292 or 312? I had a set of the cast aluminum valve covers with the turquoise T-Bird thingy that I was saving to go on my Bird, (when and if I ever got it). I finally sold them in the pre-marriage garage sale. I shoulda kept the covers and kept looking.

Keep in mind that a fresh 2.5 or one that has been cared for will be different than some of these 1oo+K examples. :rant:

All of the speed-nuts broke on a bumper I removed at a junkyard. They were cheap and easy to find at the parts store. We don't really have rust in California but I put a spot of grease on the new ones anyway. I might have welded full nuts in there if I had the time- and had a welder, and knew how to weld, and really felt that it would be necessary.

Way cool. :banana: You can take "The fun begins where the road ends" to a new level, once the ice melts. Don't forget your fishing license.

Me too- That's why I've been laying a machinist's straightedge across a lot of jeep flywheels and pressure plates lately. New, used, MJ, XJ; they have all been flat as can be. I'm not saying that the FSM doesn't say as it has been quoted, or that it is wrong. But I'm starting to think that the concave surface might have been an idea that didn't catch on or didn't have the intended long term benefits someone might have hoped for. Some of them are 20 years old now. Go to your favorite parts house and lay a good edge across the flywheel they would sell you. Or, check your own next time it's out. I have.

Yup.

I bought the whole 5" kit- which came with that track bar. It's heavy duty with a good tight fit.

I just saw a t-case type vacuum switch hanging on a rack at the local Kragen Auto Parts. It had 3 line in / out ports and it was under 10 bucks. It looked like it would be actuated by something bumping into a spring loaded ball bearing poking out of 1/4" pipe threads on the rear. I was surprised to see it next to the driveshaft u-bolts. It shouldn't be that hard to find something that would work.

I had my flywheel re-surfaced and everything turned out great, (as far as I can tell and feel). After reading a reference to this curved flywheel surface thing I went to Kragen and AutoZone and laid a machinist's straightedge across the surface of new flywheels they would sell me for an MJ. Flat as can be, as is the one I just took out of another MJ. :dunno:I guess I can't just let the experts speak. Of course, if it blows next week...... :bowdown: Still, I'd be willing to bet that there are a lot of things we do to our MJ's that the FSM would disagree with...

Small point: You may pick up some positive camber, (top of the wheels lean outward) as the body drops and the control arms rotate the axle. Offset (adjustable) upper ball joints are a little pricey but will correct this.

Fish and Game actually. Not to hijack the thread but that old '99 short bed and I do get around. With a 5.9, 3.92's, LSD, and knowing that someone else will pay to fix it, I get into places where I get to hear my favorite line: "I never thought I'd see you here:mad:".

: I wanna see pics of that 3.8 pound bass! I know you can't mean the one in the photo. Me and the 4X4 I'm paid to drive. You never know who might be lurking on these forums. :thumbsup:

Hmmm... On mine the outer tube is welded at the t-case end, and there about 2 inches of inner shaft exposed at the other end. (reversible?) I just didn't know how the shops cut down driveshafts and if they could work around two different diameters. :dunno:

Has anyone ever had one of those double layered, steel / rubber / steel rear driveshafts cut down? I've been wondering if it is possible or practical since going SOA on the '87 4WD. The original shaft has a lot of shiny yoke showing after the lift and this other driveshaft from our wrecked 2WD will get tossed soon if it isn't any use to me.

For whatever it's worth- my leak was not visible from the outside. It never ran out through the bottom of the bellhousing. The first push or two produced a couple drops around the slave, (and I assume let a little air in) but once a small cushion of air was inside there was not enough hydraulic pressure to cause more leaking- or to fully operate the slave. Yours sounds like there may be more to it. Those diaphram springs that the throwout bearing push on may have lost some of their oomph.