Tracker

As near as I could tell I had several things causing my problem. After a good bleeding it would work for a couple of pushes, then it would stop working and need bleeding again. Air was getting into the slave and only a small amount of fluid would leak into the bell housing, so the leak wasn't obvious from the outside. Once we got inside we found that the pressure plate and flywheel were kind of cooked looking but the friction disk looked like new. (This is in a recently-purchased MJ so its service history was not known) We had all new parts available (12/06) from a recently wrecked truck so once they were in the problem was gone. One thing did give us fits though: We were swapping parts from two different trucks and found out that the hydraulic fittings did not want to seal until all the parts from the wrecked truck were put into the new truck. I guess those flare fittings can get shaped to their original mates and not like to be switched. :dunno:

I was thinking thru-bolts with lock nuts on the back. The back of the flange has flats machined on it.

Thanks for the tips guys. I know I'll use them sometime but not on this one- there is nothing to hold on to, weld to, or even see. This is at the axle end, not the T-case end of things. I didn't try drilling yet but I did do a grinding wheel spark test on the broken bolts. They didn't spark out like G-8- I'd say 5 at the most, which may be part of the reason they broke. On the brighter side, the clutch swap went smooth and everything is working great. We'll just be 2WD for a short time.

Rocky Road Outfitters make a SOA kit that doesn't require any welding. And you don't have to buy the whole lift kit, just the rear stuff if that's all you want. I put one in. I don't know which rear ends it's available for though, besides the D35.

I wish I could. They all snapped about 3 threads into the flange - nothing sticking out.

Well, we yanked the engine / trans out of the wrecked MJ today, (and I do mean yanked. It's easy with a Mikita angle grinder) and pulled the trans out of the replacement MJ too. It was the slave causing most of the problem. It looked like the PO put a disk in not too long ago but left a cheap plastic-body slave in there. Luckily, all the new parts in the wrecked truck were a match. :banana: One real bummer though- all 4 bolts in the front of the front driveshaft broke off in the flange. I guess there's no easy way to fix it? Drill out or replace the flange? :dunno:

Got mine today Pete. Thanx.

The Dodge is my work truck. Arnold S. pays me to go 4-wheelin 8) (and protect California's wildlife while doing so) It's a '99 shortbed with 3.92's and a 5.9. That thing runs and climbs like a raped ape. I'm only stopped because I'm not stupid enough to try to cross flood fill mud. It took him 3 days to get out from where he was in the first pic. The second pic was the day before he made it out with help from a tow-truck with a long winch cable.

50 grand and he could only get 50 yards farther than my work truck :rotfl2:

Dang. I'll have a rolling parts MJ ('89 2WD) complete with 4 speed as soon as my son and I get the motor, radiator, and alarm system out of it. I'll just want it to disappear ($0). But there is the small problem of a continent between us.

I'm just dreading a tranny pull, since I just did one between Xmas and New Years. :cry: Looking on the bright side of things, what's the chances of the new clutch parts we just put in the '89 2WD AX4, (250 miles B-4 a sub-frame bending accident) will work on the 87 4WD AX5? It will make my day if only the freshly-resurfaced flywheel will work. :D Too bad most of you are back east. There's going to be a lot of parts left over from the switch-over project.

..... and man I wish it was just a matter of bleeding or replacing the master cylinder- already done that. :mad: It's kind of odd: The clutch feels smooth and engages in the middle of the pedal travel, but it won't let go enough to shift into gear from neutral. While sitting still, with clutch pedal all the way down, if I put a little pressure on the shifter I can feel the tranny spinning. Then if I turn the engine off while holding the pressure, it smoothly goes into gear as the engine stops. If I had to guess at this point I'd say weak slave. Am I on the right track? With an internal slave it looks like we're going in- unless anyone here has any ideas. :wrench: '87 4WD, 2.5, AX5. Bought it this way 2 weeks ago.

The Dorman fastener selection at the better auto parts stores has them. They are Allen head, but grade 8 with fine threads. $1.79 each too.

Rocky Road sells the hardware to allow stock cables to work well with SOA. Basically, it's just a bracket that mounts the two cables about 8 inches farther back and a threaded tube and rod that extend your main cable to meet the splitter. I put one in yesterday.

Where are you at? I'm going to have a $100 running parts MJ in a week or so. It has a nice bed and tailgate. But I'm in SoCal... :wrench:

Thanks for the help Pete. I have Firefox on my personal computer and would definitely put it on this one if I could. As a State employee working out of my home I'm limited as to what I can do with their computer. I can play with it off-duty but I can't mess with the works. It has this nifty program called "ZenWorks" which is, well, acknowledged spyware.

:banana: I had to open the pic in a new window- then do as you said to get that URL. :bowdown:

Hmmmm. My options when I right-click on the image don't include "copy link location". I get: open link, open link in new window, save target as..., print target, set as wallpaper, email photo, etc. I'll keep trying.....

Next Disney trip try the one out here, (on the left coast 8) ) and drive out with a big empty trailer. Lots of rust-free manches and parts with not much demand.

Thanks guys. I'll have to spend some time at the photo host to figure out how to find the pic's url. :hateputers:

Nope. That wasn't it. I'll try again.

Let's see..... javascript:openWin2('http://www7.picturetrail.com/members/edit?p=8&imgid=232468893','picture',553,410)

What do OEM towing mirrors look like?

In my case, I put the jack parallel to and just above the LCA to be bolted. The bottom of the jack is against the body, (a 2x4 kinda digs into metal and makes a stable flat spot) and the top is pushing on the lower shock mount.

And if you use bar pin eliminators on the front you can pick up about 1.75"