Keyav8r

The original job was to change the multifunction switch because I thought it was the reason for my cruise control malfunction. Yes, I know the stalk is supposed to just pull right out of the column and the new one plug right back in. Went to P&P yesterday and easily pulled one out of a 92 XJ column. When I pull on mine it moves about 1/8" (or less) and hits a hard stop. I pulled the steering wheel and lock plate to see what the problem was. Still couldn't get it out. I ran the checks on the switch from the manual and both my old one and new one check out right. it appears there is a problem in the wiring between the switch and the ECM. So, I'm putting it back together and will work out the wiring issue later. All it affects is the cruise control and while that's something I'd like to work, I don't have to have it to enjoy the truck.

Where did you find the fuses with LEDs?

Welcome to the addiction.....er, I mean the club.

As usually happens, right after I ordered one I found the old one. It was stuck on the magnet on the back of the trouble light. I'll wait for the new one and put the old one somewhere if I ever need it - and then forget where I put it!

Thanks, Don. Got that number from one of Birmingham dealers, but none of them have the part. They are all at $6.10 with the ring available Tuesday. I'll order from the nearest one because I'm sure the shipping would be more than $2. My alternative is to sweep the garage with a magnet.

Thanks, guys!

Come on, guys! Don't make me have to go to the stealership and grovel at the parts counter.

Welcome! This is generally a pretty convivial forum. Most folks are cordial and flaming is pretty much frowned upon. I believe you'll enjoy participating by giving and receiving knowledge as well as the fellowship of other Mzj addicts.

Does anyone have a part number for the wire lock ring that fits in the groove on the steering wheel shaft and holds the locking plate in place? The little #<\%€+¥~% ran away and hid somewhere while I was trying to put it all back together. I assume it's the same part number for 86 to ? Cherokees.

Welcome to the club and don't hesitate to ask questions. There are a number of very knowledgable members who will be glad to answer them.

Looking good! Where did you get the cupholder?

Even a meth head can have a sense of good automotive style. But, as yellaheep pointed out, they shouldn't be allowed to breed. We already have an oversupply of them.

Towed my 91 SWB from Pensacola, FL to Trussville, AL on a U-Haul car trailer behind my 05 Silverado 1500 crew cab with absolutely no problems. Don't remember the guy asking many questions other than about my hitch and trailer wiring. And thanks, again, to Hornbrod for posting Rich's ad and thanks to Rich for the fine work before I bought it. I love my truck

Does that price include the ATV in the bed?

I have the steering wheel off and the turn signal switch loose and pushed out of the way. Now, how do I get the multi-function stalk off the column? The replacement has a groove that looks like it might take a C-clip, but I can't see that area of the one that's on the column. Does the upper column section have to come off? 91 MJ, AX-15

Got a few emblems, also. Will include them in photos.

I've got a set of fog lights with harness from an 88 (pretty sure it was an 88). I think I have both styles of the fog lights. Planned to use one set of them and the chrome bumper on the 88 I sold. PM an e-mail address and I'll send some photos tomorrow or Saturday.

Are you down to just two now? Already sold the rest of the herd?

I think that cow has been out of the barn for a loooooong time. Good reason for a hidden kill switch. Would at least slow them down a little. Glad you recovered your truck.

Thanks for the how-to with photos. Always wondered how to get those terminals out. I don't currently have any issues with my fuse block (knock on wood), but it's good to know how to do it if I ever need to.

You should be able to pick the J-bolts up at JY. You'll need some deep sockets and a 12" extension to take them off. Hit the J-bolts and nuts with PB Blaster and wait a while. Try to tighten them a little to break them loose and then back the nuts off. If you have room, brush the threads with a wire brush to remove some of the dirt and corrosion and lubricate with PBB. Take some really heavy sheet metals shears and/or a short hacksaw in case they don't want to break loose. Just cut the strap, then take the bolts home for a PB Blaster soaking.

Come on, MJ gurus. Give a brother some help!

91 Eliminator, 4.0, AX-15 - When the cruise control is engaged it starts accelerating and will not disengage by switching off the cruise control or by pressing thevbrake or clutch pedals. I checked the solenoid per the 91 FSM and it's good (no voltage to solenoid with switch in off position, battery voltage to solenoid with switch on, battery voltage at other three pins with a jumper to the pin for the blue/redstripe wire). The switch checked out good except I did not get voltage at the correct connection on the engine control module when the set button was pushed. I got voltage at the corect connection when resume/accelerate was pushed. I have a new multi-function switch to install to fix the set button problem and provide intermittent wiper action (I have an intermittent wiper module). However, I don't think the set button failure should cause cruise control acceleration. Should I be loking at the cruise control module as the most likely suspect? Or, the speed signal tach generator? Per the FSM, there is/was a special diagnostic tool to test the modules. Does anyone know if the tool is still in use at dealerships? Next questions, are the modules (and the tach generators) still available from the dealer or is there a reliable source for used/reconditioned modules? I'll have to check the brake and clutch switches to see if they are operating correctly and make sure they disengage the cruise control once I have the acceleration problem fixed.

Edit to my previous post - first take the distributor out and look down through the hole for any evidence of damage to the camshaft gear, oil pump drive and shrapnel from the distributor gear or other parts. If no damage is found, try to turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out to check freedom of rotation. If the engine rotates freely, no catches during several rotations, then I would try putting oil in the engine, installing a known good distributor and cranking the enfpgine over several times with the coil wire disconnected to get the oil circulating. Then try to crank the engine. If it cranks and runs as it did before, drive it and keep an eye on oil pressure and oil level in the crankcase. That oil had to go somewhere - either leaked ouy through seals or burnred in the combustion chamber If it doesn't crank, check timing to make sure the timing chain hasn't jumped some sprocket teeth. This would also be a good time to pull the valve cover to observe the pushrod action as the engine turns over (look for bent or flexing pushrods. You can't know the condition of the bearings without pulling the oil pan and pump, dropping the csps one at s time snd looking at all of them. My thinking is if you pull it all the way down, go ahead and re-build it. It'll save time and money down the road,

Non-Jeep - my 2005 Silverado 1500 5.3L has 230K on it, just had the auto trans rebuilt, had around 100K on it when I bought it. Previous DD was a 2001 Sierra 1500 4.8L with 330K on the original drivetrain when it was hit from behind and totaled. I was planning on taking it to 500K