ftpiercecracker1

I wonder how much comanche is left? Just the body?

Sweet tap dancing jesus. . .

Summed up in one word. Derp.

That tan one paired with a 2.8t cummins and a manual trans is my official dream truck.

Ive known about diplomatic immunity (DI) for many years, but i never fully grasped the full scope of just how far reaching it is, until now. I assume most of you gents know about the poor lad that was struck and killed by a diplomats wife. I read tonight that the victim's family is attempting to sue the US, presumably for damages (wrong term?). What is your reaction, if any, to this ordeal? Should DI extend to family as it does in this case? To what extent should the wife be prosecuted, if at all? If so what should her punishment be and will that course of action weaken the protection DI provides?

Basically they're trying to figure out whether or not Comanches ever came with Dana 44s in the front, from the factory. Some are saying their Cherokees (84-01) have Dana 44 in the front, only in South America and even there its rare. Its unclear whether or not they were installed from the factory or done by the Importer, probably to improve sales. It does seem pretty clear that Comanches never had them. Aftermarket or otherwise.

I didnt even know the chief was a trim level. What was special about it, just a decal package? And the Laredo is under the Eliminator? But it has/had power windows, seats, locks, mirrors? I have an Eliminator and as far as I'm aware it was mostly special because it came with full skids (front, t-case, gas tank) and the Eliminator badging. AFAIK, everything else, like bucket seats and full gauges came on other trim levels as well.

Are you also running metric ton springs?

There are quite a few trim levels, but there are four that are most common. Starting with most basic. Pioneer Sport truck Eliminator Laredo 1986 models had year specific trim level(s), like Comanche X, maybe more even i don't know. Metric tonne is also a package, but i don't know if it is its own trim level? Bottom line, I'm 99% sure the one in the pictures is a Pioneer level. Bench seat, basic arm rests, basic gauge cluster, basic sterring wheel, no bed liner shell, these are all good indicators. Its very unlikely, but since it is a long bed, its possible it could be a metric tonne. I would have to see a picture of the rear axle differential to be certain.

Just when I thought I was almost done, another wrinkle. Multibranch circuits aka Edison circuits. Never even heard of them until tonight. Now ive got to check everything again.

Really? Thats quite surprising to hear. I figured modern electrical code would require all fixtures and switches to have a netural and ground conductor. I say this because modern dryers use a four prong plug consisting of 12/3 or bigger heavier such that there are two dedicated hot legs (red/black), a neutral and a ground. Would this step be necessary if the cable running to the light box was long enough to reach the switch box? No fabric or aluminum, thank god.

Yes, I'm with you 100% even though there is a white wire there is no neutral wire in the above configuration, only bare copper ground and incoming (blk) and outgoing (wt) hot legs. But you would submit that this configuration, where there is no neutral, is not normal yes? And that if it were to be rewired according to todays electrical code, the white wire is used as and understood to be the neutral leg?

Yes. In this configuration white is supposed to be netural, but in this instance it has been repurposed to save money. Thanks for the link, fortunately i am already well acquainted with multiway lights and how to wire them. The bit about NEC code i was not. This house is wired very oddly in my opinion. The use of the 12/3 has definitely made tracking circuits down a dair bit harder. Ive put in a lot of attic time on this job. Panel was completely blank and the home owners had already done significant demo, flipping breakers to see what turned on wasnt an option. Had to trace every single wire and dismantle every single junction box. Just finished tonight. Finally have the panel all figured out. Now its time to start running circuits to their new locations.

Another wrinkle. Ive found several circuits that utilize 12/3 and separate the red and black into two single pole breakers (Red, black, white, bare) Tracking these circuits down has been extra fun, because there are a couple 3-way lights used in the house and 12/3 wire is used as jumper wire to connect outlets to junction boxes or switches to boxes.

Yes, the house is a 1970s house. And yes I'm running into several junction boxes that are stuffed. Whole house is ran 12/2, absolute PITA to work with. Tape. Got it. Working on that. Jeep driver cleared up the unused neutral question. Neutral is not being switched. It is being used as the switching leg. Power originates from the light box. A single run of 12/2 is ran to the switch box. One of the conductors (black or white) carrys current to the switch. Whichever wire was not used to carry power to said switch, carrys power back to the light box to power the light. If black carried power to the swtich, white carries it back to the light or vice versa. Breakers, thank god. Three prong. Yes it would, but that is nit going to happen.

You had it right the first time. Power is distributed throughout the room at the light box in the middle of the cieling. A single run of 14/2 comes out of the light box to the switch box, white is hot coming into the switch box. Hot white wire attaches to the single pole switch and the black wire carrys current back to power the light itself. If all there is in this circut is the light and switch what do you do with the neutral white wire that is part of the main incoming power? How i described? A deicated run of 14/2 to and from light to switch?

Whats twitter?

This should be a pretty simple question, but I just haven't found a precise answer yet. Working on an older house and I found several single pole light switches that are ran with the neutral as the switched leg. Power is distributed throughout the room via the ceiling fan junction box. From an electrical standpoint this works just fine, but is it code compliant? What happens with the unused neutral in the fan juction box that was part of the incoming power? Should i leave it or change it? Whole house is completely torn apart, so it would be a trifle to change it. I suppose the proper way to do it is to run two separate leads to the light switch, use the black wire as normal, tie the neutrals together, and attach the ground wire to the box if it's metal, otherwise wire nut them together too. Seems like a waste of wire.

👍

You might luck out and find the factory plugs buried in the harness behind the grille (grill?). If you already have the switch in the dash and its not something you just put in, meaning factory, there is a very good chance you will find those plugs. Now whether or not they will be compatible with your lights, you will just have to find out. Running wires for fog lights can be as hard or as difficult as you like. Just need some wire, a switch, power, ground, and some electrical connectors. An amateur could do it in an afternoon.

This was fun.

It is my firm belief that 90% of the American population doesn't give two s****s about things like this and believe it's just as insane and absurd as we do here. It is the 10% mentally handicapped, extreme PC, nothing-better-to-do, outrage culture, mouth breathing, social media obsessed adult children that drives all this nonsense. Between the aforementioned 10% and the ubiquitous sensationalized media that lap up their drivel like a starving dog, its no wonder why it seems rampant. I'm glad i live in FL. Being the black sheep of the US has its perks sometimes. Nobody questions the crazy sh*t that happens here. Its just FL being FL. 😁

Is this it or are we waiting on more pictures?