ftpiercecracker1

At its coldest I think it might have broke 55 here, truth be told I was still freezing my butt off.

Goodbye Don. Battle over. Victory now. Your legacy will be carried on by all those you have helped, both here and elsewhere. FPC.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.usatoday.com/amp/2634734002 85 dead newest tally. Darwin award winners, every last one of them.

Every brand has its lemons, but on the whole Toyota vehicles have proven themselves, at least with my family, time and time again. Actually we did have a first gen Tacoma that had trans issues, but I was quite young and don't remember much about it. But other than that every Toyota we have owned or a family member has owned has been a cherry in term of reliability. There was one incident where an uncle of mine took a Toyota car, don't know the model, and the engine blew up in fantastic fashion during the test drive. Quite hilarious. As I said, lemons exist in all maks. It's curious some of you mention frame rot. My parents Tundra (330k) and my Tundra (216k) don't have so much as a speck of rust on the frame. And my parents live in Middle TN, slush country. On the topic of maintenance, my parents are famous for vehicle neglect and abuse. Trans oil has never been changed. Along with the tundra they also own two Toyota tercel wagons (85 & 86). Each one has about 250k on the clock, both are daily drivers. 5spd manuals, manual 4x4 too. I should probably stop talking so highly of Toyotas on, of all things, a jeep forum, probably bad juju.

Parents have an 00 tundra (4.7 v8) with 330k extremely hard/neglected miles on it. Called me today trying to figure out a noise coming from the engine bay. Turned out to be the idler pulley. . . . . . . . . . . did I mention its the factory original idler pulley? After 330k miles it's the first thing to finally give out in the serpentine system. Dare I say I think the friggin belt is original too. I love my jeeps, but d**n if toyotas aren't well made.

A wheel base that long? Probably high centers on ant hills.

Meh, took them long enough, but it ain't no gladiator, even if that's what they call it. Why are the back doors angled? The whole bed and back window look slapped together to me. I wonder what a base 4x4 model will go for. 35k 40k? No thanks. No SFA either. It just seems like a cash grab that will be discontinued in a year or two.

Ah, gotcha. Hard for me to infer sarcasm via text.

Soooooo you like/don't like tundras?

Really nice truck for what I would think is a damn fair price. Just wanted to put it out there. Not mine BTW, although I will be putting my up for sale here shortly. https://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/d/1988-jeep-comanche-pu-trk-4x4/6717580574.html

One word, tundra. Not the new behemoths but the first gen (00-06, 08?) Ok, maybe not exactly one word.

Thanks for the input fellas, but I'm pretty confident the fuel pump issue has been resolved. Cruiser: I think I have done this, can't remember for sure, was a long time ago. I seem to remember joining the fuel pump and the tail light ground together. I will check next time I'm out there.

Sometimes it's the simple things. Bypassed the ballast and fuel pressure is much better. Holding steady at 31 to 32 psi and jumping up several PSI instantly with the slightest bit of throttle. Rock solid 40psi when WOT. Although I am still having an issue. I do not think it is related to the fuel pump seeing how that seems to be resolved. Truck is still sputtering whenever I attempt to cruise or hold a steady speed, at any speed. Also doesnt want to maintain higher speeds. Example: I can accelerate to 75mph or so, but when I try to maintain that speed the truck starts to sputter/cough and slow down to 55mph or so.

Still fighting with the Comanche. Decide to take the hood off so I could get real-time feedback on my fuel pressure gauge while driving around. Haven't started it in probably a month. When I tried to start it today the fuel pressure gauge pegged at 40psi but when the engine actually started the pressure dropped off precipitously all the way to 0psi and the engine died accordingly. After a few cycles of this the fuel pressure finally "caught" and stabilized, holding steady at 30ish psi - 28psi when on the gas. I was able to drive it around ok, but I'm having issues with sluggishness and notable missing and backfiring at higher RPMs and speed. Mind you the fuel pressure did not change significantly during this. Here's where things start to get murky. I came to a stop to see if removing the vacuum line would improve anything, but when I did the fuel pressure again faltered and rapidly dropped zero and the engine died. After a couple of rounds of trying to start the engine without success I noticed a pattern that whenever the starter was engaged the fuel pressure always pegged to 40 PSI. So I tried starting it again, but when the engine fired up I continued to turn the key for brief moments as if I was still trying to start the engine. This kept the fuel pressure up and kept the engine going. After just a few cycles of this the fuel pressure "caught" again and maintained pressure without further input from me, allowing for me to drive it back home. But, when I got home it did the exact same thing, fuel pressure faltering, dropping to zero, and the engine dying. Some things to note: This maybe the original fuel pump to the truck, I do not know. I still have the porcelain thingy, what keeps the fuel pump quiet, on the driver side fender well. Thanks FPC

Nice. I wonder how valuable parts would be for it.

Thanks guys, especially Minuit. I have not seen that equation before. During my research this site provided the equation i was going to use. Would it have also worked? https://process.arts.ac.uk/content/calculating-point-which-piece-box-section-steel-will-bend-and-not-recover/index.html Thanks for the links too. FPC.

A cogged belt would make sense, but this deck is like any other and uses a traditional V-belt. I was thinking 4x6, but it's all for not if I can't find the aforementioned data. Gap is unknown. The width of the blades will determine how close they can get to one another. But I don't have blades for it yet. Can't be much more than 1/8th of an inch right? I'm wondering if this was one of the first attempts to have a three blade mower deck and the engineers didnt realize the blades had to be staggered until after production.

Problem 1. What size box steel would I need in order to support 300lbs, extended out 7ft, without experiencing more than a 1/4in of deflection? One end will be unsupported, the other securely mounted to a flat surface. I have done some research, but the online steel manufacturers do not provide the necessary information to solve this problem. I need the second moment of inertia and the yield strength of a given piece of steel. If you know a site off hand that does provide such info let me know. Problem 2. I bought a 3 blade deck to put on a mower project I'm working on. But the blades are directly in line with one another. All decks with three blades that I have ever seen have a staggered blade arrangement, where the middle blade is the leading blade. How can a deck with blades directly inline with one another cut grass without leaving a small line of uncut grass in between the blades? On a staggered 3 blade deck the diameter of the two side blades fall within the leading blades diameter thus leaving no area uncovered by a cutting edge. The leading blade is far enough forward that the side blades and the leading blade do not contact.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, what are you doing?! Do you want them to find out and hike up the prices?

Final haul, plus a pair of hood struts not pictured. tailgate 2 tail lights j10 markers 2 emblems Wagoner? bezel, rest of front clip had been ripped to shreds. $110

D35 If it was a D44 I wouldn't say a thing until it was installed on my truck!

Trying to acquess two 258ci crankshafts also.

Haul thus far.

Almost identical, but this one has the flip open side windows. Don't have price yet. Yes, but it's hockey stick style.