ftpiercecracker1

Extreme Air compressor idea. Take a 4.0 and have a custom cam ground such that three of the cylinders no longer have a compression stroke. Only intake and exhaust. Custom make a header to collect compressed air separate from the exhaust. There are some other minor details to work out, but i can't see why this would not work if the cam could be made, which again i can't see why not. Crunching the numbers (2 cubic liters of air per revolution at 1000 rpm converted to cubic feet of air) gives me an air flow of 70cfm at 1000rpm pressure unknown, but i would say 120psi. It would be able to run even the most monstrous sandblaster with ease. What say ye?

I can't say for sure on the first question, but so long as there is room for the whip to travel it shouldn't matter. Yes, the rigid hose is a guide as you deduced. My suggestion would be to operate the window with the door panel removed and see what is obstructing its path and address it as needed.

Oh hell yes. I have about a month to get my truck roadworthy again. LETS DOOO IT!

I think the argument is if places like area 51 had their secrets revealed to the public it would put our national security at risk. Government secrets are a neccessary evil i suppose, but one that could be easily taken advantage of by a nefarious government.

I guess the general consensus here is that the government should keep some things secret.

Whose going? Here is a helpful link for info and those not in the know. https://www.google.com/amp/s/time.com/5652390/area-51-alienstock-festival/%3famp=true

Gentlemen i appreciate your interest, but i will have to get back to you on this one. Sorry

Why do i need an ignition module/power pack? My lawn mower doesnt have one Both of these engines are small and carburated. Actually the outboard is is half the size of my lawn mower. Maybe its just a packaging issue? Not enough room for the coil to be under the flywheel so the "powerpack" is simply a remotely located coil?

Nope, shelved it for now. I can't do a compression test because my compression tester doesnt have the right adapter. And i don't know how to test the electrical bits. It has two "coils" under the flywheel, an ign module and a firing coil that has the actual plug wires. Which are non serviceable too. Two of these under the flywheel One of these. Why is this needed? And one of these where the spark is actually generated.

So this is what I'm hearing. For capturing the most power this is the breakdown. Most to Least: Complete, stand alone, engine management Megasquirt or the like Carb Stock EFI (HO or Renix?) I always thought that replacing the EFI with a carb was bass ackwards? I thought you would lose power? Is this correct? On a stock engine with all other things being equal and not being concerned about efficiency/mpg.

What the heck are these and how/what are they used/for? The tips appear to be either made of solid or plated with copper/bronze.

I assume neither MJ could be made roadworthy in a jiffy? The 30ft goose neck sounds like a winner to me. If both trucks will fit on the trailer just take some straps or ropes and tie the ramps up some way.

Two door gladiator concept.

Its probably a sign that I'm getting older (27), but it seems to me that if you don't cater the teens/early twenties/party crowd you can pretty much forget about being on the radio. Every once in a while on youtube i'll stubble onto a new song from some obsure artist that inevitably leads me down a rabbit hole of pure heart and soul musical talent and originality. Where am i going with this? This is the most recent gem i stubbled into. I know we all have our own opinion of what "country" is but i think any reasonable person would admit that country stations are overrun with party esque songs sung by individuals who make Ellen DeGeneres look more country than Charlie Daniels. Not to say there is something inherently wrong with that, but i would like to see some variety. Anymore i just listen to NPR or use pandora or a similar service, because its just the same d**n thing over and over again.

Yes and its utterly infuriating. Bought 90 oct, Non ethanol the same day i started working on it. Hose ran directly into gas can. I have flushed gas lines all the way to the carb with good clean gas. Along with the carb, spark plug, plug wire issues i also discovered the fuel pump has a tiny filter in it that was darn near completely clogged with dead insects. Again i thought "Eureka! The problem has been identified." Only for my feelings of jubilation to be squashed when nothing changed after thoroughly dismantling and cleaning it. Only plastic bit in this carb is the float and the needle. Everything else os either aluminum or brass. I tested the float in a jar of gas to see if it would sink and despite turning it every which way while submerged i saw no bubbles. As far as I understand, there HAS to be something wrong with the carb. No two ways about it, if it's running rich it's a carb issue. Is this sound logic or is there another way for the engine to run rich without the carb being the problem?

Really hoping someone here can offer some advice because I'm about to toss this GD thing into the drink. Its an old Honda 4 stroke BF7.5hp. Was a great little motor for a while, then my dad used it one day, literally one afternoon, and it hasnt been usable since. Its running very rich, some smoke but turned new spark plugs black after just a minute or two of running. It will start fairly readily, but will not rev up or stay idling. Meaning the rpms drop over about 10 seconds until it stalls out. Even with the idle screw at max idle speed. If you give it gas it will stay running indefinitely, but as i said it stutters hard when you try to rev it. I have cleaned the carb with surgical thoroughness three different times and no change. I also tested the float to make sure it didnt have a pin hole, letting it fill with fuel, allowing it to sink and let to much fuel by. Still very rich, will not rev/stutters. I have tested the spark (old Autolite) and discovered that one of the plugs was not jumping the gap but actually arcing inside the spark plug. Eureka! I thought. Neither one seemed all that consistent so i figured i would replace both with a nice set of NGK pre gapped to .28 per factory spec. Tested spark again with new plugs. Very good, strong, consistent spark on both cylinders. Put it back together and no change. Still running like dog sh*t, stalls, won't rev, black plugs in minutes. I started the motor and disconnected one of the plug wires, wooden handle no shocky me, and noticed an extreme amount of arcing from the wire to the motor body. Which makes me think bad wires, but the wires and coil are made together. I tested the coil and neither lead has continuity from plug end to stud on coil. Which makes no sense seeing how i have excellent spark. I am at a loss, i don't know what to do. Also, I can't do a compression test because my assortment of adapters don't fit the plug hole. It just gets better and better. I will add some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

Thanks. Ive been hearing a lot of good things about HF stuff lately. Seems they have made strides to make a lot of their products better.

Well, i know a gas version would be the ultimate portable pole saw, but they are way out of my price range and i don't like fooling with mix gas if i can avoud it. I don't have a landscaping company, but I do light landscaping for various clients as well as my own. I guess I'll just have to take the plunge and let you know how it works.

This is another one I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/Greenworks-Cordless-Battery-Included-20672/dp/B00AW72WR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cordless+pole+saw&qid=1563309168&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Any thoughts?

My last pole saw was a corded Remington. A real power house and the saw was able to be detached and used as a regular electric chainsaw. I really liked it, but the pole broke and it was heavy as a mother.

Super simple. Hit me with your battery powered pole saw recommendations. Pro-consumer grade ideally. I don't need commercial quality, but it can't be disposable. No gas No cords Batt only. This is the one i really want. Its a bit pricey, well over $200 when you buy the battery and charger. Problem is, husqvarna is making it a real PITA to buy one, but i think it will be a good investment if i can find where to buy the damn thing. https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/pole-saws/115ipt4/967867901/

Found out a few days ago CsL is now charging to post ads in multiple categories. I love CrL, I wouldnt know what i would do without it, but i am very curious to see how this new policy will effect the sites popularity. I have seen fewer and fewer MJs for sale in the last few months and now with CrL charging i imagine they will become even more rare. The same goes for any sub $1k vehicles. What say you?

"A fool and his money are soon parted." - someone smarter than me.

So many amazing gems hidden within youtube. I was about to say something about what a shame it is them being covered up by a gargantuan pile of click bait, flashy, loud, colorful garbage, but without the dumpster fire that is the majority of YouTube content we wouldn't have our little secret gems. Lots of bad makes whats good stand out all that much more.

If i was a baller GC who needed to haul around clients, a few workers or a bag or two of concrete i could definitely see myself buying a gladiator. But otherwise i see very little functionality to this truck.