ftpiercecracker1

I hope this thread is dead already, i was really looking forward to a full blown stroker discussion. :(

Yup, never would have gotten that. I got a standard. Did you follow the link and let him know as well? Just out of my own curiosity where is the connection for this?

So why on earth would you waste your time with our "dinky" 4.0?? Even with the cost for adapting it to a jeep, the sheer power gain would seem to make this a no brainer? Or am i being blinded by the 1000hp and neglecting the fact they might only produce a couple hundred torques? BTW that is one monstrous turbo on the first video, i mean DAMN!

Not saying i don't believe it, but man i would have to see it. Even with a super or a turbo i can't imagine achieveing that kind of power from a 4 banger. :hmm: . I guess the reason keeping everybody and their brother from building such a small power house would be cost. Probably 50k in each motor right?

Trying to help a guy out on jeepforum and can't seem to place this connector, what do you guys think? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/what-electrical-1427804/

Sure thing, and FWIW i can't imagine a new intake and exhaust gasket would cost all that much, i'm think 10 bucks tops?

How bout pre HO?

Why on earth did they use the 4 cylinder? I would be curious as to what kind of power they squeezed out of it as well. What do yall think it will go for? Oh and it says in the description, "does not run or drive, needs full restoration."

:agree:

stroker. what does "sic" mean?

I don't think you could physically do that. The space is just to small. You might be able to remove it, but trying to press the new one into place would be a total b***h

Ya, but but but i already have the renix header :cry: , if i use the HO header i will have to weld in TWO O2 bungs (1 for stock, 1 for wideban) and adapt it to the rest of the exhaust system.

Sounds like a good plan. can't help you with the tranny, but I can give you a good basic stroker recipe, but if you want the REAL deal go where the stroker pros are. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/ These guys know there stuff and have taught me a ton on jeep strokers. As for the HO strokers, i think these are the majority simply for that fact. Not many Renix motors are still around so in turn even fewer Renix strokers. HOs are widely abundant and make good power, so why not.

When you say there needs to be adaption at the down pipe, i assume you mean if you are going from an HO header to a Renix exhaust or vise versa right? I have both a Renix and a HO header, but my truck is Renix. So for easy of installation I should just stick with the Renix header right? It would save me from having to add an O2 bung.

Here I is! :wrench: Before we go any further, i just want to let you know that while my system is a true blue Renix, I have done/ am doing all the HO bolt on mods. That being said, What can I do for ya?

Is this for all 4.0 heads? Yet if you tried to put a 99+ intake on a renix head it probably wouldnt work right? and what about exhaust? Renix header to HO head.

what would you do if you won? :brows:

here you go. .. step 1: buy HO head, preferably 7120 cast step 2: unbolt Renix head step 3: bolt on HO head done. thats all that is neccessary for the head part of the swap. ALL 4.0 heads are 100% bolt-on-able, albeit there are other things you will need to make it work as a whole. However, I am pretty sure the Renix intake/exhaust manifold will NOT bolt back on like it did. You may be able to reuse with some fabrication, but why would you? hope it helps, ftpiercecracker EDIT: I did a writeup for adapting the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body. Cost me a grand total of $1.01

sounds like somethings going wrong when the computer switches from open to closed loop.

Very nice, This will no doubt be a favorite DIY thread for many new and old comanche owners to come. This will definately be saved onto my desktop :yes: . BTW how long did it take you to compose this lift recipie? research included, not just typing it up.

Wow, and the little ole 2.5 soldiers on. :MJ 1:

power windows?, all the interior trim (if its your color), gut everything from the front doors forward pretty much. I might be inclined to keep the d35, just as a spare.

One of my favorite quotes "grease and oil make for cheap insurance" and yes general purpose grease should be all you will ever need. Just be carefull on certain joints that have a rubber cap not to put too much grease as to cause the rubber to pop off, like your tie rod ends. Places where to find grease joints. .. universals on driveshafts and knuckles (some arent greaseable) all your steering linkage ends actually, i think thats it.

Welcome to the club!

I know this thread has pretty much run its course, but i have recently happened upon some pertanent information that might be important for the next person to attempt this upgrade. I have just recently bought a 99 wj BB, MC, and full lines. When i got them home i tried to flare the WJ lines so that they would work with the MJ fittings, no worky. Every time it would just tear the flare, it wasnt until 3 tries and 3 tears later that i realized that the MJ and WJ brake lines were of two different sizes. On MY comanche the brake lines are nearly the diameter of a pencil, where the WJ lines are about half that. Sooo what to do? I went back to the junkyard and searched every. single. jeep. They ALL had the same diameter brake line, the smaller one that is. 89-00 WJ, XJ, ZJ 4wd, 2wd all of em, not a single one had brake lines as big as mine. FWIW mine are exactly the same as the ones in this writeup. Even with this road block I was able to make it work all the same. While still at the junkyard I went back to the 89 XJ and pulled 1 of each of the fittings, as it turns out these were exactly the same as the fitting on the comanche, just drilled out for the smaller diameter brake line. Once i got the "new" fittings home it was just a simple matter of cutting off the bad flares, sliding on the fittings to the appropriate line and reflaring. Since my truck is in a thousand pieces right now i will not be able to test its functionality, but i am about 98% certain all will be well. Point of this rant, CHECK THE DIAMETER OF YOUR BRAKE LINES! hope this helps somebody :cheers: