aemsee

Also, If you try using the cans of 134a from the parts store, be sure to tell the shop about it when you go to get it done right. Most of those little cans contain sealant as well as oil and dye. If the sealant, which is an epoxy that reacts with moisture, gets pulled in to a recovery machine it can easily damage the equipment.

Here is a little trick. Be sure to use a quality 6 point box wrench. Set the truck up so that the front shaft will turn. Before you disconnect the shaft at the diff. Put the wrench on a bolt and using a large screwdriver or small pry bar, insert it in to the shaft yoke and turn the shaft so that the wrench hits the floor or t-case. Once it is broken free you can then wrench it out normally. ratchet wrenches are great for stuff like this, AFTER the bolt is loose.

The light pulls out about 10 feet (?) and has a magnetic side to it so it can be attached to any metal part, kind off cool. Hey, I have one of those! :D

Sorry for being cranky. Just old and tired. :shake:

I have often used my digital camera to take a picture of a picture to make it easier to put on the computer. Sorry I asked. Hope you enjoy that free wheel cap I sent you. Dick.

The redneck in me just loves that truck. How old is that pic?

:agree:

This is from the 2000 XJ FSM: WHEEL ALIGNMENT Before each alignment reading, the vehicle should be jounced (rear first, then front) Grasp each bumper at the center and jounce the vehicle up and down several times. Always release the bumper in the down position. Set the front end alignment to specifications with the vehicle at its NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT. CAMBER The wheel camber angle is preset. This angle is not adjustable and cannot be altered. CASTER Before checking the caster of the front axle for correct angle, be sure the axle is not bent or twisted. Road test the vehicle, make left and right turns. If the steering wheel returns to the center position unassisted, the caster angle is correct. If steering wheel does not return toward the center position unassisted, an incorrect caster angle is probable. Caster can be adjusted by installing the appropriate size shims Caster Adjustment NOTE: Changing caster angle will also change the front propeller shaft angle. The propeller shaft angle has priority over caster. Refer to Group 3 Differential & Driveline for additional information TOE POSITION (LHD) NOTE: The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment. The engine must remain running during the entire toe position adjustment. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. Loosen the adjustment sleeve clamp bolts Steering Linkage (LHD) Adjust the right wheel toe position with the drag link. Turn the sleeve until the right wheel is at correct TOE-IN specifications. Position the clamp bolts as shown Drag Link and Tie Rod Clamp (LHD) and tighten to 49 N·m (36 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Make sure the toe setting does not change during clamp tightening. Adjust the left wheel toe position with the tie rod. Turn the sleeve until the left wheel is at specifications. Position the clamp bolts as shown Drag Link and Tie Rod Clamp (LHD) and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Make sure the toe setting does not change during clamp tightening. Verify the right toe setting and turn off engine. Road test the vehicle on a flat level road to verify the steering wheel is centered NOTE: Once the toe setting is correct, the steering wheel can be re-centered by adjusting only the drag link

I have thought about this. I am right. it will affect alignment. last time I redid the shaft...last friday, one last thursday, and I've done about 7 others. the oldest style steering shafts are keyed flat on one side of the steering box's input shaft, so you can only install one way. as you get newer (89 or so) they are not keyed...they go in 360 degrees. the proper way to adjust, a combination of methods. it is required to re-align the wheels when centering the steering wheel, if you want to have it be accurate. otherwise, as you turn OUT the drag-link, making it longer, you change the slope of the angle from point A (pitman) to point C (knuckle) and where the interesection is on the drag-link (point B) will push the left wheel out a bit. this will toe you out. likewise, if you turn IN the drag-link, shortening the distance between A and C, you create a sharper slope and it will pull the left wheel in and toe you in more. you must do a combination of tie-rod and drag-link adjustment to get yourself alignment correct, and if you don't have full turns left to right with the wheel meeting in the center, you must adjust the steering column by disconnecting it from the steering box AFTER having centered the steering box at equal turns left to right and vice-versa. if you can't follow that, you probably didn't do to well in geometry. Actually, last geometry exam I took was the NYS regents exam in high school and got a 96 on it :nanner: . More importantly, I have been teaching steering and suspension classes for Chrysler for the last two years. Whether you put any stock in that I don't care, but I do know what the factory procedures are, and they in no way include taking apart the steering input shaft or pitman arm to center the wheel.

When is the last time you pulled a shaft off of a gear box? They are 99.99999% of the time keyed in some way, (double spline, or usually a flat.) Also, gear boxes have what they call and over center adjustment. The turning torque is slightly higher when the box is centered. If you adjust your wheel any method than what was stated above, you will mess this up. Think about this. If your toe is set, your truck is sitting wheels down, and you turn the drag link sleeve. What is more likely to move, the tires or the steering wheel?

:huh???: :huh???: :huh???: :huh???:

Funny, i just repaired mine today :D . The weak link is the contacts for the pivot mechanism. I only wanted them to come on with the door or headlamp switch, so I took them apart, cleaned everything and soldered a wire btwn the hot lead (center) and the grounding terminal for the door switch (obviously PAST the bulb) on the back of the lamp housing, effectively bypassing the weak link. NAPA actually had the correct bulb for them as well. The other option I was going to do was to use WJ license plate lamp assy's. They are pretty much the right size and would only require you to use a visible screw to hold it in place. You could probably grab a pair out of a JY for a buck. They would probably be much brighter as well.

If you are talking about mine, that IS on macro. I could have done better. It was mostly a lighting vs shiny object thing. Not the camera's fault :D

My daughter (who is 10) would love that truck. I have already had her driving mine (in the fields). She is a Jeep girl through and through.

The "X" is factory. A friend of my Dads had one that I used to work on. It was equipped like that one. (2.8,5sp but it was 4x4). Mostly just a trim thing I think.

No, it won't. But moving your pitman arm would cause other issues, although you will find that there are locating splines in it so you can only move it in 90 degree increments.

Well I had zero luck with their web site. I think what might be happening is that what they are calling the inner "seal" is actually the retaining ring that gets pressed on to the axle for some non c-clip applications. Chrysler actually made the same mistake with WJ listings at one point in time. They called the retaining ring a snap ring.

I don't think you are going to find any inner seal by the carrier. You need to get gear oil to the bearings to lubricate them. I'm going to poke around the autozone site and see what they are talking about.

I suppose that would work. Never done that before. Sure someone here with direct knowledge will help you.

What about an external USB optical drive?

Is that what they mean by "a $#!& eatin' grin"?

There is technically no factory outer seal for the D30. If there is a leaking outer seal, then there is also a leaking inner seal.

Any chance to have some of the useful tech links grouped together in a sticky?

Good one Brent :D

Aye, one of my favorite groups back in the day mate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxnb1syj3p0 You may remember this one better. Good therapy back then in the bad old days. 8) Thanks for the links hornbrod. Brings back memories of cheap wine, good w33d and scantily clad country girls looking to expand their horizons. I DID enjoy the 70's. (Must say that I like Johhny's sound better though.) So, that water receding yet?