aemsee

Hey Sam, is that a 6 wire connector? If it is, the APPS is actually two APPS in one. And the strategy is that the voltage on apps 2 is always double voltage on apps 1. If the controller ever sees anything different is goes in to a limp in with a DTC. So you would need to engineer two resistors to keep the voltage in the right ratio. Or you could do the bubba method. Find yourself a broom handle and cut it to different lengths to wedge between the pedal and the seat :D . Different length = different idle speed.

If it is the motor, they are about the easiest thing you'll do on your Jeep.

Before you replace the motor, get a test light and check for power and ground at the motor connector. Just make sure your key and heater control switch are 'on'.

Certified welder....own equipment...hmmm...and WHERE do you live? There are a couple threads on floor pans around here someplace. I need to do mine as well.

I feel your pain. Taught my wife to drive a stick before we were married. Not a pretty picture. Had to make sure this MJ was an auto so she could run to the local Ag store for mulch and stuff. Someday I will find the CJ that I've always wanted and it will definitely be a manual. If for no other reason than she won't drive it

You could be right there dude. Fibromyalgia kicks my @$$ big time. So bad I might have to switch to drinking pony's. I've got a couple convertible top hydraulic cylinders sittin' around someplace. May be time for an invention :brows:

No insulation on mine. I even went out and checked for old mud in the ribbing. Nada. This truck has been painted a couple of times. It may be an aftermarket hood for all I know? Tried to find my fish scale to weigh it. It is eluding me this evening. Time for beer. :cheers:

he said all his modes work fine. If neither of the lines are hooked up, no vacuum to the control head, no way modes can change, it would default to defrost. He must be talking about something else?

The one we have at work (well, when I was working) would get an honest 24 to 26 average city highway. And it had 3:73's. They come with 3:55's as well. I bet that with the 3:55's you could see 28 easy. With the 3:73's it was turning about 2300 RPM at 70 MPH. The torque is rated at almost 400 lb/ft at 1800 rpm. I think. No need for the 3:73's. They came with the towing package.

That was my first thought, but they are lubed and free. It is almost like the ribbing is filled with concrete. I must investigate further :hmm:

Mine is an 87 as well. Is this the support you mean (only pic I could find with the hood open)? And yes, the hood is pretty heavy, cause there are no lifting spring in the hinges or any counterbalance mechanism, but the latch springs pop mine up just fine. Yup, that is the type of support. Thanks.

The problem with that is if it really is a coolant in the oil issue, he will take out his lower end. Coolant/oil milkshakes do not lubricate well. If it is just a little foam around the fill, but NOT on the dipstick, then you have a valid point. Also, coolant in the oil doesn't necessarily mean a compression problem. Gasket could have rotted through btwn coolant and oil passages, and not show any cylinder pressure or leakdown failure.

HOLY :hijack: BATMAN

Dude, I was just kidding on the "PC" thing. Call it whatever ya want. I just think it funny to change the name of something like a lighter socket.

Well, to be politcally correct, they are now power outlets. Most vehicles you need to order a smokers package now. It comes with a lighter element and some sort of ashtray insert for a cup holder.

It is pretty straight forward if you are mechanically inclined. As for putting things at TDC. Not really needed, but can't hurt. With that many miles I would look carefully at rocker arms, etc. How was it running otherwise? You will notice that headbolt number 11 has a different torque spec and requires some sort of sealer. This is due to it going in to a water jacket. And speaking of headbolts, I would replace them at this time and mileage. Last thing you want to do is be torquing a bolt after all your work and have it break. Bleeding the cooling systems can be tricky as well. I think you still have a closed system on that? You may want to pull the intake and exhaust with the head. Just have a buddy help you lift them out. I had a bracket that bolted to two rocker towers for a handle on the passenger side as there is nothing to really grab on to there. You can probably improvise. I would also recommend putting a 2x4 on top of the radiator core support. When you get the head broken free and are lifting that heavy mother out, you might be tempted to set it down for a regrip as you move around from the sides to the front of the truck. If you set it on the fiberglass nose piece it will crack (the fascia, not the head :D ). Been there, done that :fs1: . Oh, Welcome to the club :cheers:

I have a 87 with the old style hood prop rod (hooks to the core support instead of the inner fender). The hood on my truck weighs a friggin' ton. I have lifted hoods on Mj/Xj bodies literally tens of thousands of times. Don't remember any feeling like this. Anyone notice if earlier hoods weighed more? The springs that pop the hood up when you release it barely get it high enough to open it on the left side, and not enough on the right. :hmm: . Yeah, I know, I have too much time on my hands I guess. :nuts:

Heater? It's 4 degrees here right now. You're in Florida, what do you need heat for! :fs1: . JK. So your fan works OK, You hear the blend door open all the way when you go to heat (that, by the way, is called the 'thud :D ' test. Technical term). How about air flow? When you move through Def, floor,blend,panel etc, does the air come out the proper vents? When you have it on 'heat', feel the air flow velocity coming out on the floor, and change btwn hot and cold. The amount of air should not change. If it is reduced when you put it on 'hot', you may have something blocking the heater core. I have seen the foam come off of the doors and get stuck on the heater core restricting flow and causing low heat, or it could be an armadillo is living inside there :yes: . I also think you should have more than 140 degrees at the core. With the truck fully warmed up, check the hoses. If they are at engine temp at the head and pump, and get colder as you go toward the firewall, you may have a plugged up core. Pull both hoses (afetr it cools of course :doh: ) and try to flush it out. Good luck and enjoy those chilly 60's and 70's down there :cheers:

I would have traded you my lighter socket for your delete plate. Never seen a MJ or XJ without a lighter.

Time to go with a factory belt, or at least higher quality. Make sure it has some sort of reinforcing cord in it. I've seen some cheapie Napa and Pep Boys belts that you could just about stretch on w/out moving the adjuster. While the belt is off, be sure to spin everything by hand to make sure nothing is binding up. Also make sure nothing has excessive runout. That will wear out a belt fast as well.

Hmmm....maybe some longarms, 33's. Not sure where to mount the winch though

Brent, where were you when everyone was jumping on me for saying I didn't like BFG A/T's in the snow!! :fs1: . I actually gave away an almost new set cause I couldn't go anywhere in the snow unless I was in 4wd. Of course you would,nt know anything about that snow stuff :D

Well I definitely want that 242. What else ya got and where exactly in Pa are the goods? Might be making a trip down to State College soon.

Could be. Toyota uses an Aisin as well.