aemsee

Actually, TSB 21-014-07 added the AW4 to the list of trannys using ATF+4. Do NOT do this. When I teach trans class I make sure every tech understands that this is not a good idea. The AW4 was designed to use Dexron. It is about the cheapest fluid out there. Use it. The AW4 is a great tranny. Why mess with it.

An F15E? Fun stuff for you speed junkies. May you always have proper ground clearance!

Wow, would kill for that bed mat. :D . Nice finds all around!

since you seem hell bent on growing your own, at least box in the bottoms after you extend them.

The front port is for incoming filtered air. I assume you still have the rubber PCV grommet in the rear hole? Make sure that there is vacuum getting to it first. Then pop it out and make sure the hole is clear. Then look in to the hole it came out of. There will be a metal flapper there. Make sure it isn't gunked closed. If the problem is with too much pressure, then you may find that fixing it may at least calm down the hemorrhagic fever at the RMS.

should be second in from front and back. Look at your valve cover gasket. Those pins hold the gasket in place.

Just watched a show on History channel last night where Gunny was checking out armored personnel carriers at Aberdeen. Cool looking place. How about arranging a group CC tour :D !

I was wondering about your pressure. Since it doesn't usually improve with age, you probably have some sort of restriction in the system. Either something is partially blocking a oil passageway (not using a cheapie disintigrating oil filter, are you?) or a bearing (cam most likely) has rotated a bit and is blocking oil flow. This will certainly give you a valve train tick. How did the inside of your engine look when you had the VC off? Any sludge living in there? Maybe time for a full rebuild and not just a reseal. Now, what you also need to check is the CCV system. Especially since you just had the cover off. It only takes 3 to 5 psi of crankcase pressure to start blowing out engine seals. See, the pressurized oil coming out of the rear main bearing doesn't shoot directly at the RMS. There is a metal ring to deflect it to the cutout in the bearing cap and back to the pan. But if you combine excess oil and a too much crank case pressure you will certainly have a case of Jeep ebola.

I don't have a manual for an 87 but have one for a 90. In the 90 book the #2 injector wire at the ecu is connector A pin cavity #3, a light green wire. Might be the same for 87. Check at the ECU for power while cranking. You could have a wire that is broken inside without the plastic being visibly damaged.

I'm teaching out of Rosedale Tech but I'm staying up in Cranberry.

I hate MOPAR reman stuff. I went through 3 reman water pumps in the same day, on the same XJ, without it leaving the shop. Parts manager finally gave the guy a new pump for the price of a reman. And I couldn't begin to count the number of problems I have seen with the reman trannys. That WJ fan should do you just fine. I wish I had kept the couple I had aquired the same method you did. How are you going to wire it?

Going on the road for work in Sept. Pitt 8th - 11th and Cin 14th - 18th. So what is there to do? Evenings will be free for at least a few of the nights. Might try to grab a cheap Steelers ticket for the thur night game with the Titans. Ones on line are $150 for nose bleed seats :ack: . Figure there should be a single seat ticket floating around the parking lot for sale cheap.

I've had the Asus version for almost 6 months now. It is great for what it was designed for.

I have seen that before as well :hmm: . Is it just a smooth cylinder inside?

One set of holes for bumperettes?

Just check rochester craigslist. It is listed as comanche parts. I might be looking for a temp job. My room at Morrisville is going to take a few extra weeks to get ready, and the fine company I work for is probably going to give me the time off without pay until it is ready. I think I can draw unemployment during that time, but who knows. I drove a fork lift for three summers during college. 12 to 14 hrs a night in a bean canning factory. It's tough to transition back to a car after that. Almost took the front end off my Mustang a few times backing out of the parking spot.

mine were nuts and bolts. Were they just spinning? And I do think they were 15mm.

I was thinking the same thing. But I can't see ANY reason to make this conversion. It'll mean buying new hubs, new rotors, new calipers, new pads ... and every time a hub goes bad you're looking at another $125 to replace, compared to ... what, for a standard wheelbearing and grease seal? $20? This swap does not strike me as being a great idea. I have to agree. I like the spindle style set up with greaseable bearings.

Well, after two weeks of trying to set something up with this guy, I give up. Too much going on with work right now to chase people. Can't get anywhere but voice mail and he won't return calls. It is open for you to add to the collection Wildman! I'll forward the pic message he sent me of the truck if you want. PS. The last time I bought diamond earrings for my wife she made me return them. Too impractical for her. She wanted to go out for dinner and new snows for her ZJ instead.

The "Accesory" position is not the first click. Accessory is the opposite direction from the Run and Start positions, and does not energize either the fuel pump or the ignition. The first click toward "Start" is "Run," not "Acc." The fuel pump does run with the key in the "Run" position -- IF the pressure in the fuel rail has bled down enough to need it. If you park overnight and turn the key on (to "Run") you'll typically hear the fuel pump run for 2 to 4 seconds, until it builds pressure. If I drive one of my trucks home, shut it down, and a few minutes later turn the key to "Run," the pressure is still up and the fuel pump does not run. How does the pump "know" that there is pressure in the rail? There are no pressure sensors in the fuel system. There is no feedback from the pump to the ECU. Also, there is a Jeep/ Eagle adapter kit that allows the DRB II to connect with the Renix system through the two connectors. It came with adapter boxes, cables and DRB II cartridges for the 87 to 90 Jeeps and the Mitsu products. If you would like I could post a pic sometime of the set up. The dealer I was at was throwing out all the "old, obsolete" tools a while back, and I managed to grab a couple of DRB II's and adapter sets. :D If you check e-bay the stuff shows up occaisionally.

Couldn't you just use the outer stub shaft from a 4wd axle instead of the dummy shaft? It is just there to hold the unit bearing together.

Definitly wrong one.

For the amount of time I spend here at CC, what I sent you works out to pennies per hour.

:thumbsup:

The MAF (actually a Kharman vortex generator ) is inside the black cannister behind the battery. I can see the plug still going to it. But having the tube open would make the engine run very lean.