jeepdoggydogB

I got mine off of ebay http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/s ... 8_full.jpg

Oops - sorry. :nuts: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm Great writeup and idea! I went with the Quadratec mirror for the temp sensor and compass, and have been thinking of creative uses for that area. I like the GPS idea, it would also be a nice place to put an enclosure for an IPOD

Ever try higher octane? My 91 get about 25 highway, have never figured city since I don't drive it much. It is also a 4x4 auto though... I run premium in it thought, that is all that has been in it since I got it. Plus I swapped it over to full Syn Power oil and high mileage tranny fluid. Then again it just dawned on me, mine only has like 16k miles on it... DOH!! Alex I run premium as well, but I hear that California has more additives in gas. I remember when I first got this truck it was an Ohio truck shipped to me with over half a tank, and on the first tank of gas I got like 17 city, I haven't got that kind of mileage since that tank of gas.

Gotta love the Renix for those MPG's. My H.O. gets 14 in the city and about 16 on the highway.

I used the Bigoffroad wiring harness with relays, and the IPF setup (not DOT) with magic bulbs. I got tired off getting "flashed" with the fatboy bulbs pretty bright.

Not a cheap solution either, but a dana 20 from an early bronco wouldn't need to be flipped only clocked. http://www.high-impact.net/transmission ... Bronco.htm

I wish I saw them before I bought mine these are the cheapest MJ specific I have seen. My cost about $210. http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1991_Jeep_Comanche.htm

Excellent find! :cheers:

I think I see the problem. The speed sensor itself mounts into a housing, the piece I refer to as the quill. (The 2000 FSM refers to this as the "speedometer adapter.") The sensor is held in the quill by a bolt and can only fit one way. Then the quill mounts into the transfer case and is held in place by a forked retainer. For the vehicles with mechanical speedo, It is the quill that has the markings for tooth count; for the electronic speedos, the speed sensor has RANGES of tooth counts marked: 32-38, 39-45, etc. You are supposed to install the housing so the range that includes your speedo gear is at 6:00 o'clock, then install the locking clamp so the bent tips LOCK in the nearest slots in the housing (adapter). Installed correctly, the speed sensor cannot rotate in the adapter because it's bolted, and the adapter can't rotate in the transfer case because the tips of the clamp arms are engaged in the slots of the adapter to lock it in position. If you are trying to position it because you think it needs to line up exactly on a tooth number, you're probably not locking it in one of the three correct positions and it's not staying in place because it's not being retained by the retainer. Argh that is the problem it looks like mine isn't lined up ,and the metal fork at 9 O'clock isn't in all the way. Thanks that settles my issue :bowdown:

I don't think it can jump off the proper setting. The quill is held in the transfer case by a retainer bracket. It's such a tight fit that I can't imagine how it could rotate. Are you sure you're talking about what Pete's talking about? I think we are talking about the same thing, I am talking about per the 1991 parts manual is the speed sensor and secondly the speed gear. The speed sensor has numbers that seem to depict the appropriate tooth count of the speed gear. As rusted as my speed sensor is I can makeout the -34 my gear (although 1 tooth off fo 3.73 and 31's) is 34 This is the part where I probably screwed up on. There is an area on the output housing that the numbers of the speed sensor are supposed to align with and then the retainer clip is fitted. If I do not have this aligned correctly then it might explain why my sensor rotates and the speedo stops working after several months. I just bought a new sensor so I can read the numbers and the 33 tooth speed gear, I hope to God this fixes the problem. I appreciate the big guns help on this one. :cheers:

Mine is pretty rusty but it looks like it says -34 so it should work, I am looking at how much a new housing will cost but I I am not hopefull it will be cheap.

I was noticing the same thing when I looked at the XJ schematic, a lot more going on, that is prolly why the instructions for this switch read remove 15 amp fuses untill the truck stalls. It looks like the XJ harness is setup for a factory alarm and vehicle disabler.

Yep you are right 60 amps! Thanks! :eek:

Good idea, if I am reading the schematic correctly that fuse is in the PCM. Thanks!

Pete, That is exactly what happens to mine it (the speedo dealie) "jumps" off of the proper setting.

Some youngsters decided to break into my MJ and broke the rear sliding window. I bought a cool kill switch off of ebay and the instructions say to start the truck then pull out 15 amp fuses one at a time until the truck stalls. When this happens the kill switch is installed using that fuse. Does this sound like a good idea? I pulled out the electrical schematics and don't see how a 15 amp fuse from the fuse box would stall the truck. The only thing that I could see that would stall the truck is in the PCM module in the engine compartment. Anyone ever use a switrch like this? TIA :cheers:

My gear does the same thing, and to fix it I have to remove the gear and housing and reinstall. I do this about once a year, I have been told if I order a new housing and the appropriate gear it will stop jumping off track. :cry: I have the 34 tooth and need the 33 according go-jeeps site.

Dayum, The old grey Ford ain't what she used to be...

Good God if it sold for $8,900 that would be the most I have ever heard for anyone paying for a stock MJ. :eek:

Too bad the author deleted it(it probably sold) but the one from Kentucky at $5,900 with a freshly rebuilt engine and new paint looked like a good deal. Your search product has produced some good deals in the 3-4K range as promised but none of them are as nice as the ebay Eliminator only the Kentucky truck came close for me.

Jon, I think that $7000 isn't unreasonable, it's a great truck and I have used most of the tools proposed here in the search for my truck two years ago with no success. I'll say it again if someone can find an equal or better truck for less using these tools post up the link! It isn't likely that anyone will give this guy his reserve so after the auction I would email him with my best offer and leave it with that. Good Luck! :cheers:

When the auction ends and if there is no winner shoot him an email. Also don't give up hope if no one reaches his reserve he may decide to lower it before the auction ends, or the high bidder that reaches his reserve might just back out.

I don't ever think I have seen an MJ on ebay go for more than the $5700, and this one was an 87 with less than 12,000 miles and still had the cosmoline on the door jams. It is doubtful to me that someone on ebay would pay more than $6,000 for this truck based on the history. If this guys reserve is more than $6,000 or no one wins the auction, you might try emailing him and making a polite offer and see where it goes. The most expensive stocker I found in my search for an MJ was a black Eliminator like mine and the guy wanted $10,000. It sat for a long long time until the add finally disappeared. I think that truck is worth to me $5-$6K, and for my taste when you start getting higher than that I like to see new motor, tcase, new transmission, new paint, new interior ETC. It would be awful to buy such a truck for $8 to $10K and then have to throw a clutch/transmission or other big ticket items into it.

Linky please! If an MJ like that can be had for $3-4K send me the link as I think I might be able to convince my wife to let me buy it.

I saw a 1987 go for $5,700. I bet they want in the 7 or 8 range. After I sold my wrangler I had $10,000 burning a hole in my wallet. For that truck if I had the money to do it all over I would offer about $6,000 at most and save the rest for a new engine, tcase or whatever else the truck might need. I seem to remember a member that found a way to figure out the reserve amount.