jeepdoggydogB

X2, someone will get hurt and offended in the end, and there isn't any reason to have "bad blood" on an MJ site over something not even related to trucks or cars.

I have them in my MJ and they seem to fit well.

Sounds like an outstanding career with many adventures coming your way, best of luck! :cheers:

Congratulations on your journey to an Eagle Driver patch! :cheers: But the Eagle has been around for 20 or more years you might driving something newer (I hope),and you just aren't telling us what it is :dunno: F22 Raptor or F35A Lightning II? ;)

I can relate, my truck is like Inspector Clouseau, and my wife is obsessed like Chief Inspector Dreyfus in trying to kill my truck! Mysterious fire bombs, crazy ninjas, and projectiles from nowhere haunt her while driving my truck yet it still lives! Seriously she hates my truck and weird things happen when she drives it. ;)

In 1999 a Jeep Author named Jim Allen released a book called "The Illustrated Jeep Buyers Guide". It has some of the most comprehensive information about production numbers in any book I have read. http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Allen/e/B000A ... epwbk_T1_1 If anyone could shed some light on this, he would definitely be the one or know who to go to for such information. I can't seem to find an email contact on him, but if someone could maybe he could help? If nothing else he writes a couple of articles for Off Road Adventures magazine. One of them being the Q&A Gearhead article. From the ORA web site: Willy Good find Willy, When he wrote the Jeep Buyers guide in 1999 he referred to Comanche's as a "bargain truck". I think a lot has changed since then and in the 17.5 years sine Wade's truck rolled off the assembly line , Mr. Allen might view this truck as a rare gem. From reading his book Mr. Allen knows former Jeep engineers, and testers, army testers, and a host of other industry folks with valuable insight as to what the last Comanche Eliminator VIN number might be.

I think that has to be the first hunter green metallic HO Eliminator I have seen, again this makes your truck even more rare.

Best of luck and many prayers for your Mom.

In 1999 a Jeep Author named Jim Allen released a book called "The Illustrated Jeep Buyers Guide". It has some of the most comprehensive information about production numbers in any book I have read. http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Allen/e/B000A ... epwbk_T1_1 If anyone could shed some light on this, he would definitely be the one or know who to go to for such information. I can't seem to find an email contact on him, but if someone could maybe he could help?

I got the info from Chrysler on my 91 in November of 2007, it took about week. It will look something like this. Dear Joe: Thank you for your email to the Jeep Customer Assistance Center regarding your 1991 Jeep Comanche. According to our records, your vehicle (VIN: 1J7FJ66S7ML594221) was equipped from the factory with the following: *Q7 - Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats -SA - Charcoal ADAA - Light Group ADL - Skid Plate Group AHL - Heavy Duty Insulation Group ALR - ST Value Group APAS - Monotone Paint ARMA - Radio AM/FM Cassette BAFP - 130 Amp Alternator BCDP - 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery BGAS - Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CACP - Low Back Bucket Seats CDBP - Reclining Front Seats CKAP - Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CUFA - Full Length Floor Console DBBC - All Manual Transmissions DDQ - 5-Speed Manual Transmission DHNS - Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS - Dana M30/181MM Front Axle DMMS - 3.07 Axle Ratio DRKP - Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle DSA - Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle ERH - 4.0L Power Tech I-6 Engine GACS - Tinted Glass Windows GBBS - Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS - Front Door Tinted Glass GEC - Front Left Side Sliding Window GFDP - Rear Sliding Window GNCP - Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors GRZP - Left Remote Mirror GSZP - Right Remote Control Mirror GTZA - Manual Remote Mirrors HAA - Air Conditioning HGDP - Deluxe Insulation Group JAYP - Instrument Cluster w/Tach JCAS - 85 MPH Primary Speedometer JGBP - Digital Clock JHAA - Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAP - Cigar Lighter K2BP - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR K27P - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING K3XS - STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAJP - Headlamps On Warning Chimes LAPS - Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBBP - Courtesy Lamps LBCS - Glove Box Lamp LBDP - Ash Tray Lamp LBEP - Cigar Lighter LDAP - Underhood Lamp LHDP - Headlamp Off Time Delay LMAS - Halogen Headlamps LNJP - Fog Lamps MBJP - Black Front Bumper MB1S - Black Front Bumper MCAP - Front Bumper Guards MDAP - Front License Plate Bracket MFKP - Body Color Grille MHAP - Black Windshield Moldings MMCS - Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS - Belt Moldings MMKP - Body Color Drip Trough Molding NAAS - Federal Emissions NBKS - EVAP Control System NF2S - 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank NHM - Speed Control PX8 - Black Clear Coat QX8S - Black Clear Coat RAAC - All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAFA - AM/FM Cassette Radio RCDP - 4 Speakers SBAP - Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCGP - Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SFAS - Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS - Rear Shock Absorbers SUAA - Tilt Steering Column TBB - Full Size Spare Tire TBMS - Tire Carrier Winch TRNA - P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires TZAP - Goodyear Brand Tires WJHP - 15X7 Aluminum Wheels WLZC - All Aluminum Wheels XBSS - Pickup Box YAAS - Build To U S Market Specifications YGEA - 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P - Rear Spring Group I Z5AS - GVW/Payload Rating Z66P - Left Front Group XV Z82P - Right Front Spring Group XI 1AAS - U.S. Dealer Retail 143S - Zone 43-Pittsburgh 3V5A - Customer Preferred Discount 4EA - Sold Vehicle Sometimes the codes do not produce a description that makes sense for the timeframe the vehicle was made. If BK hasn't affected this service it will be worth the wait. :cheers:

Excellent find and great price. It is kind of weird when I bought mine its build date was 4/91 and had 112,000! :eek:

not really, I don't know all the details but it is possible, i was going to buy a mini cooper pickup truck down there and was plannin on bringing it up, i know its alot of paper work and you have to be able to pass emissions up here, at least that was what my mom did when she moved up here 28 years ago, and my uncle jus brought up my great uncles ford galaxie from mexico city all the way up to ohio and I'm pretty sure he has it registered and everything up here, but who knows it mightve changed since then Your two examples have no relivance to importing a new vehicle. Any vehicle 25 years old needs no considerations when importing them. But any new vehicle, there is a plethora of things that you are going to run into when trying to import one. The easiest way to get around that is to import the body and the drivetrain separately. The benefit of mexico being someplace you can drive is that you could possibly buy a vehicle there, and drive it back over the border without a bunch of problems. However you will have problems when you goto title that vehicle in the US. This is where it gets tricky, you can go through the same process as you would if you imported a vehicle separate from the drive train, or just use an existing US title like you would have for the ford ranger you already own. There's a reason you don't see diesel XJ's, and diesel JK's, diesel smart cars, diesel town and country's, gasoline twin turbo 300zx's etc etc. The process ain't easy and its a lot to risk. To top it off the whole thing is a logistical nightmare waiting to happen. It looks like there isn't a legal way to import a vehicle from Mexico or anywhere for that matter to be used as a personal import. http://www.answers.com/topic/grey-import-vehicles Now for some of illegal ways. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_im ... ted_States I am not sure if the "lost title" method would work, but it is interesting reading. I remember the "grey market" businesses in the 80's apparently there are subsequent laws to tighten the old grey market loopholes. I have never seen any of those oddly featured "Mexican vehicles" out here in the California Bay Area. Which makes me wonder about the ease of getting them into the U.S.

Actually it was for my '90 MJ, shows you how much the Service Manager knew. Yeah, that was in '94, I was naive back then, plus this site didn't exist (for that matter very few sites)!!! :rotfl2: What scan tool is used to connect to the 6 way (D1) and 15 way (D2) diagnostic connectors that are between the relays and the coolant bottle? I know codes are not stored, but I thought there were real-time outputs. And back to the original question, can you hear your fuel pump prime every time regardless if it starts or not? I had a loose harness connection by the e-brake causing intermittent fuel pump issues. Mike-Interesting conversation about this here http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71302 Looks like a Renix code reader did in fact exist, but like has been said no stored codes. In 1994 Comancheclub probably would have been a chatroom in AOL, or a dialup BBS which I am pretty certain didn't exist, I love and appreciate this site!

That is the nicest Eliminator with the 91+ stickers I have ever seen. Note that a red eliminator went for well over $6,000 when it didn't get reserve at $6,000 on ebay as I recall. If it is mechanically sound the owners asking price may not be that outrageous.

Almost 10 years ago I stumbled upon a picture of a Comanche with the Waggy front end and woodgrain. In 2000-1 JU had a humongous server crash and I was never able to locate that pic again. As I recall it looked distinctive, I seem to recall seeing woodgrain on 80's Dodge Rampages as well.

Ingenious! If you can't go over the rocks scare 'em away! :eek:

That sounds like the major options mine had, if he has it for sale he must want to get rid of it. It's hard to say if he will go below $5,000 depending on the reasons for selling it. When I got mine it had 112,000 on the odometer, and the one major issue with it was the AX-15 transmission the brass synchros had all but wasted away (probably because the PO used the wrong oil). Good luck and hope you work it out with the seller.

Love the look! I seem to remember reading somewhere that Cibie used to make H4's for the smaller shells? http://www.danielsternlighting.com/prod ... ducts.html

City lights are used on well lit city streets in most European (and some Asian) countries; in fact it's illegal to use headlights in most Euro cities. They usually have a separate position built in to the headlight switch to turn the city lights only on. There is legislation in the works to do this in some US and Canadian cities too. And a lot of folks also use them for DRL's. Link: HERE Outstanding work Don, As I recall they had City lights in vehicles in Hong Kong back in the day. Many of my friends that lived in Manila and Makati PI that could afford European imports had German made vehicles with such lights like the old Mercedes 300 D in a variety of forms. :cheers:

ok, how do you know? :shake: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17590 :no:

Try to buy a quality thermostat or you may be replacing it 6 months down the road, ask me how I know :brows:

X2 I have the metric tonne springs with the 3 inch lift and they ride better than the old AAL's.

Metric or standard I think I goofed as I didn't use locktite to tighten her up and the nut came loose, if so my bad and either way it could have cost me my life. I hope others will take a trackbar installation more serious than I did. :cheers:

Don, Yes on the axle end, I drilled out the original hole and after reading an old thread (I think you commented) that it could weaken the housing (I like your trackbar better). I just bought the trackbar back in February and the bar came with a nickel looking bolt. jpnjim I am thankfull to be alive and that rollover video is brutal. I will never again assume that just because something like a bolt comes with a kit that it must be OK, its grade 8 for me or a trip to the hardware store.

Just an FYI for those considering a JKS trackbar, my JKS trackbar bolt disappeared, so I am assuming it boke off. It looked to be from the kit a nickel based bolt, so I replaced with an 8.8 high tensile steel bolt. I am not trying to say bad things about JKS, but I just want folks to be aware of what happened to me. I was very lucky, I was just on the freeway, and when I exited I noticed that my steering was sloppy. I pulled up to my house looked under the truck and discovered the bolt was missing! I had torqued it to spec when it was installed, anybody have any advice on a bolt replacement? I didn't want to put lock tite on a bolt that should easily bolt off, any comments or suggestions? :cheers: