Jeep Driver

Yeah I go 3/8 or so. Some folks need the tool but then some folks need a lot of things........lol

I had a belt once that was oil soaked that squealed. I replaced that WP and idler and AC mount/fan pulley bearing and still had the squeal. Replaced the belt and solved the problem. Make the belt squeal then mist a little water on it and see if the squeal goes away.

Shock mounts. Axle tube is larger so you won't be able to use the plates and Ubolts.

Short buzzer story. In 98 I go to Bennett Auto Sales to buy a 97 Ranger. Bennett was one of those dealers who sold only 1-2 year old cars. First thing I do the first day is rip out the buzzer. In doing so I realize the truck was a flood truck. Save you the sap...........I threaten to sue First Union Bank because Bennett refused to accept the truck back. After three weeks of phone calls and certified letters I got a letter of apology from First Union's attorney along with the title to the truck. I then sold the truck to a Honda dealer for $7500, full disclosure and they wanted the truck for a shop truck. In the mean time and prior to the deal with First Union I bought a new 98 which I drove up to last year. Buzzers suck and I'm grateful they do.

The time before last at the picknpull I found a complete new system in an XJ.......compressor and hoses........whole 9 yards. Couldn't have been more than 6 months old.......shiny and new. Still kickn' myself in the @$$. Dime a dozen at the PnP.

Harmonic balancer needs to be replaced.

Anemic my @$$. Pink slips. Let's go! :mad:

Yeah someone on another forum says they just popped their 44 too........the coveted D44. Well that sucks. My feared D35 just keeps on going. I'm considering a 8.25 only for the KJ disc though. Had one with 4.11s and I sold it before I knew about the brake swap.

It's only a guess but it looks like the clear coat has, for the lack of a better term, check cracked. I don't know man...........buffer?

I've never done it but I've seen it done. Spot welds are drilled out and the panel peals off. Nothing should get cut at all unless you are cutting the patch.

Just disconnect the rear DS and use a ratchet strap to strap it between the frame rails, that way it stays in the trans. That's what I did will I towed my truck from FL to TN. Just tape the u-joint caps.

Could you just put the TC in neutral?

96 and back I would think. Maybe 01 and back.........don't think that part would have changed much.

I used to ride street bikes so it's not a safety issue with me but I just don't get the doorless thing.......don't get that at all.

I assume it's a CAD axle? Newer axle would be my solution.

I went to a muffler shop and asked them to bend me a tube, they did and it's not perfect but at the time I did not have the hole drilled nor a coupler for the plenum. It's not perfect be when I get around to it I'll have them bend me another. Could be bent around self-contain power steering pump. Air boxes suck. Been casually thinking of a way to get around the 4.0 in my wife XJ too.......gotta be a way.

Mine has done the same. It's the last 1/4" on the way down. So I just leave it just above the wipe and it will roll back up or I have to reach up under the door panel to raise it. I'm waiting to find a set of 97+ SE doors........want to get rid of the wing window anyway. Also one of the reasons I'm waiting to paint my truck. BTW the 97+ regulators are SUPERIOR! to ours......less cranks and smooth smooth smooth.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/3044656946.html http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/3041028474.html Apples to oranges? No. The guy wants to trade and he knows what he wants and it's more expensive than what he has to trade so he jacks up the price.........I never deal with 'traders', they are the worst. Other than the fact that the seller soaked a bunch of money into it that he's desperate to recover.........it's still a $1200 ZJ. EDIT: If you want a second car, one strictly for transportation, then look for a $1000 4cyl that's good on gas and gets you around. Or if you are patient you'll find a good $1000 XJ that you can clean up and sale in a few months and make $600 or so on it. Leave the goo goo eyes for cool crap at home and use the $4000 on the MJ. Just trying to help..........I have wasted more money in my life doing stupid crap.........I just can't' tell you how much. But I learned my lesson.

Its a RC lift kit. and I emailed them about more details. But do you guys think a lifted ZJ would be good #2 vehicle? reliable? any idea? ZJs go for around $1200 to $1600 all day long. So figure what the goodies are worth to ya. That's the way I'd look at it. XJs have resale value.

If it's rust free. Yeah.

It's your cash.

You need to remove the cover and clean it as the other guy suggested. Replace your vacuum and vent tubes and grommets. I also used Ultra Black around the grommets at installation. You can tape it off for a clean look when you are done. Clean clean clean and it will stay clean. It's gotta breath.

There was a shop back home, Clearwater Hose and Hydraulics, that would make up ANY hose you need. And cheap too. NAPA is local to me now but their prices are high. If mine went out I'd probably take it to Knoxville and have one made up in braided hose. OEM replacement is $85 IRRC so I figure I could have one made for $50 or so. You can also insulate it prior to installing it.......a good shop should have the insulation sleeve.

Braided steel line. The plastic liner will take a lot more heat than the tubing that you have now. I used to use it for cooling line on large scale RC gas boats....connected directly to exhaust and it never melted on me.

Very nice. 2W or 4W?