Jeep Driver

Just so others know what you are Ugg-ing about. For me it was quite a satisfying experience......almost like I needed a smoke afterwards.

Follow his build. No one will have one of those adapters just laying around and you won't get one cheap and you don't want that anyway.

The 2.5 pump is still available and no you cannot use a 4.0 pump

I get the impression you will show your truck. Or at the very least show it off. NAPA and others will let you peruse their stock of hoses in the back of the store, your correct lower hose can/will be found. Don't want to clutter your build page, however, your intake tube/hose can also be found/created. As seen here around the 7:00 mark. The difference is in the details. And it matters.

A little teaser to myself. Wheels won't go on until I get the bed finished, front wheel wells cleaned and sprayed with undercoating like the rear and I get the Wilwoods on. Wheels/tires fill the hole nicely, much more appropriate in size. Black on the wheels match the trim nicely. Front axle will need to go another .75" further north, I already pushed it out and I've run out of driveshaft. Front suspension/axle will come out again anyway. Longarms are definitely in the future. 32s look puny now. Deep lips are a huge improvement over the older wheels. 34s will net me 1" of overall lift.

Ahhh, now that's better.

FWIW to anyone, the grille- I'm no longer posting on the general forums, there was some discussion recently regarding the '92+ grille not fitting a '90- header. What you are looking at is a '92 grille on a '88 header. You'll have to fit it but it will fit just fine. Why I painted the grille- I've looked, nearly impossible to find NOS grilles, chrome or otherwise. I'm referring to a complete set.....even piece meal when they come up will cost about $350++ I have an aftermarket grille and doors I paid something like $80 for from Summit, pure garbage, unworthy of any truck. Painting was the only logical solution for me. If you guys find any OEM grilles and doors you better hold on to those.

I'm much happier with the black on the grille. I ordered new mounting hardware for the flares, flares are painted also.

Thank you.

The color of my grille is Sterling, it is matched to the tailgate letters and handle. I did not want black as black makes the nose of the truck look small, drawn in and cuts the front in two.......just a poor look. However, as I suspected, as a single color it look displeasing and cheap, lazy. The color does do well with the headlights though. I don't care about any kind of factory look but this does look more natural. I'm also going to do the upper and lower pinstripe line on the grille and headlight doors.

Door seals, good ones. Rear window trim, cleaned, soaked in brake fluid to soften and make more supple. Left in heat and shaken every 30 minutes for about 4 hours. Drip rails painted and installed. Took me three hours to install trim, what a b*@ch.

Seriously doubt any of this is related to TPS.

https://www.upi.com/Archives/1985/03/09/Canada-to-require-catalytic-converters-on-US-auto-imports/5059479192400/ Chances are it did.

2W or 4W......doesn't matter. I would start with the track bar. I assume you are going to drive it home to FL? If the TB does not solve it, move to your steering sector/links. TR ends, drag link and TB should run you less than $300 and can all be replaced with common tools. Any box store should be able to get you parts next day. Get it home then look to uppers and lowers and bushings etc....

I pretty much stopped watching Tony's vids because of this- Skip to 3:20 and see what happens to a cam lobe and lifter when stupid is as stupid does. Do it right or don't do it at all. And this guy should know better.

Pretty sure you don't torque the through bolt on the Brown Dog mounts........check their literature, common complaint for vibration. And if you like vibration you'll love the BD mounts. The head bolts are bolts, not studs. I guess you can refer to those on the outside of the VC as a combination bolt/stud or a studded bolt, the only one you'll use is the most rearward for the grounding strap. If you are going to use studs anywhere, replace the intake/exhaust bolts with studs and Stover nuts. Use existing washers. Lifter tick causes- bent push rod, low oil pressure, worn rocker (highly unlikely), failing tappet, worn lobes on cam. I suspect it is a combination of low oil pressure and worn cam and failing lifter/tappet. If this is your goal, to get rid of the tick, you are replacing your cam. Since you are replacing the cam........timing cover is coming off, head is coming off..............your oil pan is coming off too. If you are taking the pan off you might as well replace the rear main seal. If you are going that far you might as well replace the oil pump and pick up tube. At this point you are $600 and a two day weekend's worth of work into this. Why would you not spend another $250 and get the head worked? Since you have stripped the entire block down to the rotating assembly........why not spend another $600 and rebuild the bottom end? Why not just pull the engine? Surely you are not going to reinstall the old harmonic balancer? Or the old water pump? I would not rely on your temp gauge/sender.....seriously doubt you are running 60mph on the highway at 185 degrees. On and old worn 4.0........you are the anomaly. And if it's running that good.......leave it alone. You'll have unforeseen expenses, radiator hoses...whatever......cleaning supplies....vacuum hoses......heater core hoses....etc......

He actually does some pretty interesting things.

Metal roofing company near me gets rolled steel sheet, 10K lbs rolls. Core of roll is cardboard, think toilet paper roll on steroids, also same as concrete form cores.......these are for the taking, free. Cut a plywood plug, screw to end of core, stack wheels inside, plug other end. Diameter looks to be perfect.......16-17". Think I'm kidding? no, I'm not. That will go USPS. Mini pallet and plastic wrap as mentioned will probably be the easiest but will need to go UPS or Fedx. Just throwing out creative ideas.

That ain't gonna be cheap.

A little cut-n-buff. Now I'm getting somewhere.

I don't hit people up and I don't pay homage.......so there's that. But I will offer a little perspective. A trans shop will guarantee work/labor/parts...etc. A trans shop will install a rebuilt or new trans...........JY trans will have no warranty A trans shop will charge about $100 per hour. New AX15s can still be had for about $1600 You'll need the bell and fork. A shop will include a new clutch. You'll need a new master/slave and line. Trans mount. I never had a BA10, never did the swap.....so...... Will there be a difference in length related to the drive shafts? Shorten or replace? Adds cost. Will the shop also insist on replacing ujoints? Xmember will need to be moved....? correct? and how does this relate to exhaust hanger? Spline count, input shaft.......as it relates to TC? Fluids. JY transmissions. I'm on my 5th.......so, you get what you pay for, correct? Sometimes you luck out and sometimes you S--- the bed. I'm not defending the shop's quote, that's not my point. If you want to go on the cheap...........AX15s, 4X versions, used, don't grow on trees, you'll have to begin your hunt now. Get all your parts together and get on your back and start wrenching. Also.....you mention a 5.3 swap, consider that carefully, what you do now, what you do later, and how much money are you willing to throw away? Adapters..........Add another $500. Or, with the 5.3, a Turbo350/400 or a 700R4...........Figure another $3K unless you are going the scrap route there. Most of us do or own work for the very reason you mention here. $4K is not unreasonable for a swap.