Jeep Driver

Spring and shock tower is gone and I guarantee you the unibody is twisted. Scrap it. If you get it for $400, yeah, maybe, good interior and driveline........rear hatch.....some other parts. Bet thad front axle got some damage too, you'd be surprised what will get bent.

I did look at those, and I understand completely what you are saying and how these work. IIRC......something like $450 for the pair? Do you see the lowers as more critical than the uppers......IOWs bearing more abuse? As I stated, 99% of my driving is on loose flat surface......make any difference to you?

One of my objectives is to get the slop out of the front end, articulation is not a goal. I want better road response. Rubber bushings are fine, I don't want the harshness of poly, but I don't what the sloppiness of stock bushings either. I also intend to do the double shear track bar too, there I may go poly.

That bend I do want for tire clearance. This bend I do NOT want.

I've studied all the offerings, these look to be the best but not the cheapest. I want fixed LCA, straight not bent. I can understand why you would want the 36 degree bend for a 4"++ lift but not for stock height. I'm going to email them about making me up a pair. I replaced all mine less than 2 years ago with stock (dorman) junk. Looking to replace for the last time. Anyone have any experiences with Iron Man? Any other options? I'm definitely ordering the UCAs in the next week but need to know about the lowers. Thanks

Do you have the cheap-@$$ Advance hoses? All 4 of my connections leaked, I doubled up on the clamps at each hose end.

I actually do solder on my cables to lugs, then use brass clamps. Much easier for me to disconnect and clean.

You said it........:P

Awesome opossum :thumbsup: very glad to hear that it wasnt what we all feared. Just for good measure when inspecting your battery cables, i would take the time and solder on some heavy truck battery terminal clamps. They are made out of hard aluminum not soft lead so they make a really nice and tight connection. I also like them better because can be removed and retightened dozens of times without breaking/cracking like the crappy lead terminals How do you solder copper to aluminum?

First off, what is 'totaled'? You need to post a pic of it for us to judge by. My quick answer for you is no, don't bother. Unless you can pick it up for $300, it's worth about $450 in scrap. Have you got a way to haul it around? or will you pay towing? Is it at your house? Some insurance companies will total a car that is NOT totaled just because it's cheaper to do so than repair. My wife's 97 XJ is a perfect example of that, previous owner fought the insurance company to repair it. Your best option in my opinion is to find a like year XJ with a 5 speed and do a direct swap, pick one up with a blown engine for $500 and scrap it for $400, you get your drive line for about $100 excluding new parts that you wish to replace or upgrade.

How much is the salvage price?

No wing window.

You have a coolant temp sensor and an air temp sensor in the intake, have you replaced them? What about O2 sensor? Is there any kind of dead spot on the throttle?

The SE is the model with no bells and whistles. My wife drives the SE, the only thing I miss about our Sport is the overhead with the temp and compass.....other than that.....perfect.

Good luck finding 97+ SE doors, I've been looking too, for about a year now.

http://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/4246224008.html

Guess you could take a wrecking bar and ram it through the POS and clean it out. Or spend the $400 and have your exhaust system replaced from the cat back.

Both of my difs are open. I want a locker for the rear as I'm tired of wheel spin where 4W isn't necessary. I also drive primarily on roads, lots of steep gravel drives. Our road to our housed is iced, has been for a couple of days now. I have no problem going uphill on icy roads even with open axles.

If I were in your shoes..... Find your casting #s on the head or model and year, call around to head exchange/rebuilders for the cost of a rebuilt head. If time is not of the essence, pull your head and have it cleaned, valves done, decked. Either way will cost you about $250. While it is running (as in now) pull one spark plug wire at a time, determine what cylinder has the knock, if the knock goes away or sounds different when you pull plug wire for cylinder #3, that is the cylinder with the knock. Install new head, pull pan and clean, replace rod bearing. This will cost you about $400, gaskets, head work, oil, coolant, and can be done on a weekend. Worst case....you get another 10K miles out of it. Option two, rebuild or save money for rebuilt engine while this one is still running. Option three, while this one is still running, look for a donor. Look to a same year Cherokee with bad trans, wrecked, rust bucket, or generally unwanted. One that you can pick up and drag home for $500 but otherwise runs great...you are looking for a good engine. Get a buddy to help you and swap on a weekend. Haul donor to the scrap yard and get $400 of your money back. Oil, coolant...etc....plus a loss on donor........swap may cost you $200 or so. Take 50 different pics of your engine bay from 50 different angles.......this way you will know what wire....what hose....what vacuum line....went where.

If the sludge is as bad as you say....... Break up that sludge and it will go to the pan where it will get sucked up into the oil pick-up stainer and starve the pump.......I give your 4.0 two days before it's fried. Pull the valve cover and physically clean it off, suck it up with a ShopVac, stuff holes with rags to keep it out of the bottom. Remove oil pan and clean it out, same with pump pick-up. That said.....you already have a knock.........so............

Yeah, for $8........order it.

Its not the cable part. What did I miss here? Confused.

Intake air temp sensor. Do you live in an area where you have your truck inspected? Mine loves being cat free.

Have you got an old POS cat? Have you changed your O2 sensor yet? IAT sensor? No, I don't think the hole in the muffler will make a difference.