Jeep Driver

Doors, head light bezels, chrome bumper, hood, fenders, starter, distributor, dash, D30, TC linkage, front DS, console, steering column/wheel/shaft....pump, hoses, radiator, E-fan, wiring harness, chrome door handles, chrome mirrors..........etc......etc................. You will NEVER find another for $300 running........that's how life works, certainly not when you need one. You stated nothing about condition, nor have you posted any pics. If the XJ is solid........park it out back and forget about it till you need it.

Return the E3s........junk. I like Motorcraft, personally.

Don't assume that new parts are good parts. Check your track bar again. I have my fifth one in 2 years now.

Hell's Creek only offers the MT springs as no lift or 0 lift. 504.98 shipped. I'll go to General.

Thank you. Will let you know in a few weeks how it works out.

Mine does not work, has not worked since I owned the truck. You can make it go away.......assuming yours runs well.......not necessary in my opinion. Even with AC on, mine does not bog. There is also an idle control switch on your PS pump pressure line that may be activating it. Simply unplug the two and see what happens.

Moog bushings will run me about $110 at Advance for all four or I can get new springs with bushings for $350 shipped and know that all is new. I'll go with new. Hornbrod, are you happy with the quality of General spring? Has anyone here gone with the military wrap? Does it really make a difference? Thanks

Any block/head should work. You'll need to retain your fly wheel, distributor, intake......etc..........as later years (wrangler included) are MPFI. Where are you? Good 2.5s can be hard to find used.

Use Control V Works every time.

Yes, TPS is bad.

I just ordered the JKS shackles. Bushings? or new springs?

Thanks. No, no stress caused by the sway bar. http://comancheclub.com/topic/25284-jks-shackles/ That answers my question on the shackle.

Also, A couple of months ago I swapped out the spring plates for the S10s. I noticed that the perches did not sit flat against the springs, one sat forward and one sat rearward. I assume that one of the axle tubes may have spun a bit in the housing...? Or could the spring arches have become deformed? Could that cause or have exacerbated the shift of the axle housing?

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found My axle has shifted to the driver's side. I'm thinking that my bushings are worn out, or could there be another cause? The truck has never been wrecked or otherwise damaged. I'm considering ordering new springs from General, that would solve my bushing problem, but what about the shackles? Also, the shipping from General is $80, is that to be expected? Have any of you had any luck with bushing replacement? Any direction on the shackles? Thanks

You have to remove the ring and carrier to get to it, they are NOT at the end of the axles. Hence, 'inner' seals. WRONG! This is for a NON-c-clip axle. The seal is at the outer end of the tube. It is not necessary to remove the ring gear and carrier. It is not necessary to even open the pumpkin. The seal is a press fit into the outer end of the axle tube. You need a seal driver to install it. I stand corrected, sorry.

The principle is the same.

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?165809-seal-installation-tool-for-Dana-30-front-axle

You have to remove the ring and carrier to get to it, they are NOT at the end of the axles. Hence, 'inner' seals.

That is not the size of the plug, that is the temp sender in the head. Plug is 3/8 but not NPT. Post a pic of it.

If it looks like this it would have come with a plug in it, the plug is a fine thread. I drilled and tapped mine to 3/8 NPT to accept a switch. I do not remember what the thread is......you might have a hard time finding the plug. Temp sender is on the top of the head to the back on the drivers side, single wire going to it.

I have the 28mm bar, came off a XJ. We went to Winston Salem, NC a couple of months ago........I brought tools........wife loves that....lol.......the pickens round here are slim. The WJ has two large bars, the 2004 is solid, 30mm+ or 1 3/16 but will have to be modified. I returned the one I had to the local PnP for credit before I figured out how to modify it and I have since not found another. The other years are larger but HOLLOW and I would not even bother with it.

This is the 'kind of' deal you want to look for..........I know these are not your axles.......this deal is just an example....... http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/pts/4416105012.html $350 for a pair of matching R&Ps

The only thing I have to add......... Any QUALITY shop will charge you in the neighborhood of $800 to regear both axles. The only way you will swap out both for $400 is if you find the gears used and you do the work yourself. Oil, seals, gasket maker.......that alone will run you $50+........not to mention bearing that you may need to replace. There is a thread here, Bluecomanche.......IIRC......... who had his front regeared and had to take it back three times......brake failure and his gears were 'singing'........this is not something you want your corner redneck shop to throw together and cheap is not cheap.

Yeah, I like the Icons but they are only 7" wide.

Nice.