Jeep Driver

If your front cable has not been replaced it will need to be as it won't be worth working with. You'll likely want new rears also and the only place I have found them is rockauto, the Raybestos is good. You'll need to mount the handbrake and then measure for a new front cable. If you cannot find one you can make one or have one made.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/vpe-64408_ml.jpg Sure, why not?

Solved. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found The braided lines are off a 2000 Intrepid. In retrospect I would have simply paid the $30 and had new all braided lines made at the hydraulic shop. The distribution block is to the side and kind of behind the booster, makes it nearly impossible to get a good wrench on the fittings. I would have installed the lines to the bock first then to the MC after it was installed. I had a leak on the front sector because I could not get it tight enough, booster had to come back out today anyway. There were two '97s and a 96 and a 98 at the PnP yesterday, there was also a 2000 but the booster was gone. All of them had the exact same part number, I chose the 97 because it was the cleanest and the master was off the 2000. The '88 booster measurement from the back of the booster to the center of the eye is 5", I cut both rods and welded the old to the new at 5 1/4" to compensate for the spacer. Peddle is back to normal now. Also, makes the stock brake light switch a no-brainer.....should have done this to start with.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/4612044222.html

No, I need something like this. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/631310/10002/-1?parentProductId=

This is what I need, where do I find it?

I have a 5 speed.

There is a wire that is alway hot, find it. If you cannot find it, run an new one off the fuse block. Attach it to the yellow wire from the radio. The yellow wire is the memory wire.

My brake peddle is now even with my gas peddle and me no likey. Is the only solution to remove booster and cut rod and weld on stub off the old booster to gain length? Any of you experience this? Thanks

Alright you guys, I did the swap today, I pulled one off a 97 ZJ. Actually I pulled two to get the extra spacer and two were unnecessary. Oh yeah, I got brakes alright, but now my peddle is low, it's now even with my gas peddle. Besides cutting and welding on a new end (off original booster) is there any other solution?

Yeah, swap the relay first. Sounds similar to what mine did one time, bad relay.

Your wheel cylinder is shot, the pin will not retract on that side. I experienced this on my old D35. They are $10 at OReillys.

I have no doubt the numbers are good. You see more 87/88 for sale than any other year.....there are simply more of them.

If you got any pull over there ask them to let me in, please. Either find them on Facebook and send Jeff a message or have a member send Jeff a mesage with a screen name and email address. Yeah, I sent them a message on FaceF--- and no reply. Member please....... JeepDriver jeepmurphy@gmail.com

Off topic, but helpful off topic question... What rear sway bar did you use? Wanting one for the rear as well. looks like a stock front XJ sway bar. But I'm wrong. S10 or Blazer, with ZJ rods and XJ brackets. Bar mount to axle is off Blazer but welded on. Now on my 8.25 Image Not Found

It has a very nice sound to it. And it no longer sounds like a moped or a V6 wannabe.

Yeah, I could end up with $500 in a head, $300 in the cam, rods and lifters..........and I really want the double roller timing set too........another $200. You know the story......wheels or tits..........

Valves, or valve springs? I can't imagine any reason to replace the valves, but most cam kits either call for or require new springs, new keepers (retainers), and new seals.

http://www.moabjeeper.com/articles/technical/listing.cfm?articleID=235

I'm running a Hesco RVOB6 cam in the stroker, but I know that doesn't answer your 2.5 TBI question. The guy who will know is Benny Fulps at Hesco. Good go-to guy and knows about everything. I'd give him a call @ (205) 251-1472 and pick his brain. I did speak to Benny today, he told me the guy didn't know what he was talking about and that I didn't have to do anything regarding intake and ignition.

If you got any pull over there ask them to let me in, please.

Hesco sells the 2.5 RV cam for $289 and states that valves and retainers must be replaced. I'm looking at a master kit from Mabbco, they advertise custom cam grinds, RV cam is available for an additional $90. I called them this morning with a couple of questions and they tell me that If I go with the RV I will need to go carbed or change out to a 'learning' injection/ignition system, that Renix is not compatible with the cam. Have you guys installed a RV cam with Renix or early HO and not remapped?

I've gone through several of the pencil type soldering irons and they just do not last, even the Wellers don't. The old fashion Weller gun is what I have now.

Was your Pacesetter for the Wrangler? and if so does it fit the Comanche with the Wrangler down tube that come with it?

OK, thanks. I just emailed Banks to see why they do not list for TBI, I suppose it is because it does not support the EGR.