Jeep Driver

Clearing out my phone tonight and thought I'd share exactly what I do. Last three bathrooms I've done, everything from electrical to plumbing to drywall to paint to trim to marble.......I frame through completion.

Here are the Moog cc782 on the XJ. CLANK CLANK I'm nearly deaf and I can hear them. Had I known, no way would I have bought them. Image Not Found

The packs are clamped together already......at least mine were. Only one that was loose was the overload leaf. The bolt was so loose I nearly removed it by hand........nuts snagged the bolts half way off. Image Not Found

I understand. It is too short, that's why it falls off.

25 year old technology.

I put moogs on my wife's XJ about a month ago. THEY SUCK BIG TIME!

There is an extension to the rod that you need to move from your old to the new......IIRC.

And then prepare yourself for a lot of lift in the back. OME spings and ACOS will level it out. Ride quality of the OME is SUPREME! Pucks will give you hight but the old springs are still sprung......you cannot appreciate the better ride until you swap to OME.

Take the bolt out and turn the round head on a belt sander until the head is small enough to fit the hole. Will take you all of three minutes to solve your problem. That's what I did.

Well, that sucks.

I set all mine finger tight then buzzed them with an impact. That was about a year ago and I'll do it again soon as I install my new engine.

Nothing wrong with waiting and looking, and I did not meant to imply that there was. I looked and waited for about 4 months. I paid $2500 and traveled 4.5 hours to get it. 2.5 and 2WD. My criteria was 'rust free'. But that was three years ago and the pickens are getting thinner.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/5017550088.html

http://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/5057157313.html Hate to spoil your day........but....... Turn key...meet all my expectations....give me what I want....for the price I'm willing to pay.......................those days are gone. The above is 2WD and for about $500 it could be 4WD. But that requires lowering your expectations, sweat, bloody knuckles, and a few swear words.

4.11s can be used with 4.10s

Prior to 1984 most Uhaul company owned stores, rental super centers, for the lack of a better description, employed hitch fabricators. If a hitch was not available the fabricator would build one from scratch. In '84 I hired on as a lot attendant, bringing up trailers and trucks, checking them in, wiring cars that had not been wired for trailers before. I was immediately drawn to the hitch department, Roy was the fabricator and he and I became friends. When I was slow on the lot I would come in and help him, wire for flat plugs and that type of thing. He eventually had me installing "custom" hitches when he was too busy fabricating. Uhaul had already begun to phase out fabricating as more and more 'custom' hitches became available. After I was there 6 months or so Roy left to move out west and I became the hitch mechanic. In the two years I was there must have installed nearly 200 hitches or more, who knows, everything from Class l to Class lV. Behind my shop was the RV shop, they handled Class V WD hitches to goosenecks to 5th wheels. At that time I must have wired several hundred cars/trucks for for flat plugs to 7pin to the goofy connect-a-lite connectors to E-brakes, and I had every manufactures colors memorized and knew where the harnesses were. I could wire car in minutes. In '84 there was Dixie Hitch and Uhaul to serve our west central FL area, there was no internet, no on-line ordering, no Tractor Supply.......if you wanted a hitch you came to us and we were busy. It was not uncommon to have 3-4 customers waiting for an install. Why my story? I did not approach my hitch build from a position of complete ignorance. I worked my @$$ off, I was 19 and full of piss and vigor. The manager liked me enough to allow me to use the unused portion of the hitch bay to assemble my '71 Camaro that I bought piece by piece, he even let me use Uhaul trucks to drag them in- Image Not Found This is me welding a hitch on to the front of the yard truck, sometimes we had trailers stacked in rows 6 deep and it was easier to drive them in that way- Image Not Found

Here's another pic of that same hitch. No "Z" shaped side plates. You need to look more closely. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

The side plates/brackets are "Z" shaped on this one....some are "C" shaped. Those with long reaching brackets for trucks have them. There is also 'pull' from the side.....side forces. Imagine using the hitch as a recovery point, your 4000lbs truck is being snatched from the side to pull you out of a ditch...for example.....the forces are wanting to bend the side plates. It does not take a freakin engineer to figure this out. THINK!

That setup is great for street use, but it doesn't improve the ground clearance at all compared to the stock mounts. Might even be worse for ground clearance. Drag on the shock mount or drag on the spring plate????????/ or the diff for that matter.....all at the same elevation. What the hell is the difference?

The factory hitch bolts to the factory bumper.......that is your fourth hole, in theory. The factory bumper has a fourth (or fifth) bolt......one that bolts to the bottom of the frame. Why gussets? weld it up and see if you have no deflection. Report back. FURTHER> the factory bumper bracket has, by it's design, a gusset built into it. IOWs it can handle lateral forces. The factory hitch takes advantage of that by being bolted to the bumper. Your hitch without gussets and not being a part of the bumper itself will bend when a force of 5000lbs or grater is applied (laterally or sideways, hitches ain't just push and pull). You will note on factory hitches the side brackets are "C" shaped......built in gussets........that is with brackets that reach that far out.

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There are 4 bolt holes, why are you only using three? Image Not Found The shackle bolt is a COMPLETE FAIL! I have no idea why you would expect anyone to drop their axle to install a hitch? The hitch should NOT attach to the factory bumper. Too many variations in bumpers now. Hitch designers build for new factory cars/trucks with the expectation that there will be a relative standard for fit......now 25 years later??? Home builders will not assemble this hitch on a fixture, the brackets you designed will turn inward about 1/2" or better once heated at the cross tube, the brackets will need to be gusseted, are you supplying the gussets? Are you assuming liability? Who sues whom when the homebuilt hitch fails? Just asking? You are assuming a tremendous amount of liability for $30 you will profit per pair.

I thought this too till I had no choice and Had to Run 18's... My temp Wheels to get me by till I ordered my wheel and tires I went with Stock 18" JK Sahara Wheels My Current Setup Image Not Found What flares?

I can tell you what works- Standard GS leafs will give you 3", JKS shackles will give you 1"........reality is I'm at 3.75" over where I was 6 months ago. Depending on which direction you mount the JKS shackles........0-1" lift, I just swapped the direction on mine a couple of nights ago and gained the 1". OME coils up front will gain you nearly 2" (+additional isolator= 3") . I just installed the JKS ACOS system and adjusted it for 1" more, now at 4" and level with rear. I have had exactly 1100lbs in the back of mine (transfered marble from tractor trailer to job, known shipping weight) with virtually no sag.....the GS springs can handle weight.