lexluthier72

I assume that one from a 90 XJ will be a direct swap into a 90 MJ? (the speedo cable should be the same?) Does a 90 have a Potentiometer adjustment for the tach?

Hey all, Ive been thinking about doing a gauge cluster swap. I did a search and did not find specific info on doing this swap on a 2.5L. I need to know which years will work, and does it matter whether its a 4cyl, or 6cyl? I'm looking for the easiest "plug and play" option, but want rid of the idiot lights. -Erin p.s.- Someone should do a DIY, and have a good list of what works, and what doesn't.

Digging the paint color. Fantastic looking truck.

Ditch the aftermarket valve cover (I assume its plastic) and get an aluminum cover from a 94 wrangler, with its original cap. Be sure to get the correct VC gasket for the new cover, and make sure its rubber. This will solve the problem. I had all sorts of issues with cap/gasket/valve cover leakage. The new cover/cap fixed everything.

Red Rocker 79....Here is a link to the install on the kick panel (floor) lights....shows them lit up also. Pretty hip. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3490&hilit=kick+panel+lights

I'll see if I can snap a couple. The lights came from a stock cherokee. On a cherokee, if you look up under the dash, right at the bottom edge, there are mounting clips with light holders. The plug is there on the comanche, but nothing plugged into it, also the holes to mount the bracket are there as well. I think if you do a search for lighting you'll find a guy who did it. I wish both sides came on when the door was opened, rather than the drv side coming on with the headlights...I'll have to see if there is a way to change it. The reason I went with the aluminum cover is, I could not get the plastic one to stop leaking oil everywhere, and the cover I had originally was a junk aftermarket. Overall the truck looks pretty good, but there is a lot of rust to deal with. -E.

a happy accident, the emissions timer showed itself today, hanging by one screw. (looks like PO tried to remove it, or removed, and re-installed it. I removed and tossed. :D

Trip to the JY this morning yielded the under dash/floor lights, so I did that mod. Passenger side comes on when the door opens, drivers side comes on when you turn on the headlights. Pretty slick, makes it alot brighter in the dark. Also fixed the passenger side window crank handle. Thinking about the dash cluster upgrade, but did not know what year to swipe out of an XJ, and none of them were 4 cyl models :( No photos, but pretty basic stuff.

Thanks Folks!

xComancheKidx: YES, that is the part you need. Also, pick up a short section of 1/2 inch vacuum hose to replace the piece on the end that connects to it (held on by a zip tie in your photo) Use a hose clamp rather than a zip tie to secure it to both ends. (You can do the same thing with a rubber grommet from Napa (about $5) a short piece of 1/2" vacuum tube (about $1) and an elbow from the hardware store (about $2) Fiatslug87: While I know that that part would replace what he has, and work well, he doesn't need all the extra stuff, and what he has can be fixed with individual parts for less than $10. Seems like alot of extra just to get one hose fixed.

I just did this. I got my cover from a 94 wrangler. IF your cover is metal pull it and clean it up and re-use it. IF not, get a metal cover. Make sure you get the RUBBER gasket for it. The cork gasket will not work. You can get a new gromet from Napa, along with an elbow that fits. Before I had the metal cover, I used a grommet from Napa, and a plumming elbow from the hardware store, and it worked great. Just some ideas on the cheap. Do a search for 2.5L valve cover, and you should come up with my DIY post. Edit: The gasket MUST be for the year valve cover you get!

Hey All, I am wondering if anyone has a good method for washing the engine/compartment on a 2.5L comanche (Fuel inj) Ive heard mixed things about them being sensitive to water (sensors) etc. Anyone have the straight scoop? Apparently the valve cover had been leaking on the PO for quite some time. Engine is pretty gooped up with caked on oil, as well as the underside of the hood, and various parts of the compartment.... Id like to be able to open the hood and do basic checks without getting covered in grime. :D -Erin Also, which degreaser to use?

Thanks Jim! I just had this problem on a friends VW....same deal, cleaning the TB fixed the issue. -E.

Fuel injected, or Carburetor? IF fuel injected, clean the throttle body, especially the "flap" that opens to the airbox. IF carb, its time to rebuild the carb.

Thanks!

short box/long box?

Mine is also a DD. It has some isssues due to lack of maintenence, but overall, I can't complain. The 2.5L is also a very solid engine. My last Wrangler had the same engine, and went 300,000 miles with almost no maintenence. (oil changes, and tires) Like everyone is saying, sort out the problems it may have now, and keep up on the maint. and you'll do fine. And when things go wrong, this seems to be a great community of like minded folks, who have helped immensly. -Erin

Yep. Luthier here. Guitar repair is my day job. :D -Erin

hairline crack in the fuel rail? mis-shaped/damaged o-ring? Thats all I got.

Good info to know. :D

Pete, I know. I can't afford to do anything at all until next month anyway, as I just spent about the same money chasing down a metal valve cover and gasket for it also. I suppose some would say thats foolish too, as its only a 2.5. I will continue to think about it till the next payday. On that note (of swapping axles) are there ANY that are a direct swap?!? MJ's up here are pretty scarce, so finding a D44 out of a Metric Ton, I think would be a lost cause. -Erin

Geo, I hear ya. -E.

Pete, I know its a lousy axle, but I also do not have the time/space, or knowhow to swap axles at the moment. This axle has got to get me through till spring, and then I can start figuring out over the winter how/where to do the swap. IF it runs more than $150 with the speedi sleeve, I will skip it, and just keep topping it off over the winter. After my last experience with a full rebuild, this is the only money I will put toward this axle. Besides, this is a street truck only, and I do not have 4wd.... -E.

reading about something called a "speedy sleeve" sounds like it slips around the pinion shaft to take care of any grooves that are worn into the shaft?

Will do. I can promise that if it does start to leak again, the next step will be a D44. :D I just can't justify possibly spending an afternoon trying to get the drive shaft apart, and the pinion nut off all while laying under the truck, when these guys can do the same dang thing in an hour. And, IF they try to talk me in to more work on this axle, I'll simply tell them no. -E.