lexluthier72

I have a decent Craftsman TW. However, torque specs seem to be a gray area on this?!? In the manual it says to use the TW to remove the nut so you can pay attention to how much torque it takes to remove it, and use the same torque measurement to put the nut back on? I understand it, but it seems a strange way to do things, plus Ive read the pinion nut can be extremely hard to remove without an impact wrench!?! (then how do you find out how much torque?) Aside from that, I have a couple questions....Where do I find: The new seal A new pinion nut a new crush washer should I replace the pinion nut and washer?!? There seems to be alot of gray area in what Ive read. Id like to do it the right way, and hopefully only once. Sorry if it seems I'm over thinking it. Just want to get it right.

Jim....You are most likely right. I am concerned about the torque on the yoke nut, having read that it is critical to have it just right, or gear failure can happen. How much of this is truth? I can surely do it myself. Ive read the proceedure. I am concerned, as it is my DD and I cannot afford a rear end re-build. -Erin p.s.- I will keep an eye on it, and I do have a buddy that may be able to help me out to change out the seal. (I do not have all the tools to do it)

Sounds like getting the yoke nut back on at the right torque is critical!!! This is my DD and I cannot afford to replace the rear end if it gets F'd up....I may send it to the mechanic to get it done the right way. -E.

No money to do that at this point.... :fs1:

Never done it! (replaced that seal) :hmm: Will probably need to find CC member near to give me a hand. Can it be done without pulling the rear end?

I have good cab corners coming from a guy in Oregon. I'm in touch with Z&M jeeps who is said to have good rocker panels. (I'll report what I find) As far as the cab corners, only the last 8 inches or so toward the ground need replaced, so really its only the pinch seam flange I'm worried about being able to get between the cab and box with the welder. I have an industrial welder helping me out, and will consult him before I cut anything out. -E.

Yes. I took a second look. The lines that were on top of the drive shaft were fuel lines, and everything else is dry/rusty. It does appear only wet toward the ground. It appears to have been leaking for a while (the whole front of the D35 is pretty caked with grease/dirt) I cleaned up around the u-joint/diff seal with some de-greaser to see how badly its leaking....Grr. I just got rid of one jeep because of a repeat problem with a D35. Grr. -E. p.s.- no fuel leaks either. (whew)

Hey all, Ive been chasing a noise in my truck today, come to find brake lines laying on the driveshaft?!? Apparently the previous owner thought it would be ok to zip tie them up, and not use the clip fastened to the underside of the bed....Anyway....while I was under there I spotted this....Its not dripping, and there is no "wet spot" on the driveway. The D35 makes absolutely no noise at all. I have no idea how long it has been wet there, and the previous owner said he's never had a problem with the rear end. Should I just keep driving it, and monitor it for any leakage? OR.... :headpop:

Thanks Jim! My resevoir is remote. It looks like at some point there was a leak at the resevoir. I'll keep my eyes out for a replacement. -E.

I could use a few of those clues. :brows: Not much here in the way of parts trucks that Ive found.

Hey Folks, I have a 1990 MJ 2wd 2.5L. Is the Power steering pump specific to MJ, or will a Cherokee pump fit? Mine is noisy, but not given up yet. Let me know. -E.

Neo...Maybe you can shed some light on my cab corner question in the "tech" section? Can it be done without removing the pickup box? -E.

Neohic....I'm in South Central Minneapolis. As it turns out, My sister is friends with a guy who does industrial welding, and he apparently owes her a favor. (getting the work done for free) -E.

Also, it sounds like almost everyone who has removed the bed, has busted most if not all of the studs off in the process?!? I assume there is a way to get some penetrant in to the nuts holding the bed on?!? -E.

no worries. I'll have to ask the guy helping me with the welding if he thinks he can get in there with the welder without screwing up things around it. I suppose if need be, I could take it off. (I have plenty of time to let the bolts soak in PB blast) I was just hoping not to have to do that yet. I will eventually do the rear of the frame as well. :D IF anyone sees this and has done their cab corners without removing the box, please chime in!!!

I know the cab cannot be removed.....Can the corners be welded on without removing the box/bed? I know the rear box/bed comes off, my question is, can it be done without removal? -E.

Hey All, So in prep for getting new cab corners....Is there a way to weld them in without removing the pickup box? mainly the flange between the cab and the box. Mine are just the lower part of the corner (about 8" up) and not the pillar. Any thoughts would be great. -Erin

As you can see, I did only spot repairs on the door bottoms, cab corners (whats left of them) The very top of the rocker panel (to hopefully stop the rust from speading), The front of the box corners, and the jeep logo on the tailgate as well as the bottom edge of the gate.

Hey Folks, So, I'm new to MJ's, and new to the forum. I recently picked up this 1990 MJ 2wd 4 speed manual. As you can imagine, it is extremely difficult to find a rust free late model vehicle of ANY type here in MN. I drove an hour outside of Mpls to see this truck. Previous owner was 17 and getting ready to head off to college. He did all the mechanicals himself: New clutch New rear main seal New valve cover and gasket New VC "breather" (don't know the tech term) and hose New exhaust front to back New tires!!! The 4 cyl. has 140,000 miles on it and runs like a top! My main objective over the coming winter is strictly to keep the current rust in check, and try to minimize the spreading till next spring, when at tax time I hope to have it repainted. I found a friend who is going to help weld in new drivers side floor pan, new rocker panels, and new cab corners before winter sets in, then hopefully next year I can get the box repairs done. I started by spending a couple days with the die grinder, an orbital sander, and a hand scraper, grinding and sanding as much of the blistered paint away, and rust bubbles that I could get off of it, then giving it 3 coats of rust inhibitor, then primer and then pre-mixed "colorado red" The premixed color is not quite right, but close enough from 5 feet away, and will keep the neighbors happy not seeing so much rust. Aside from the usual rust areas, the truck is pretty solid. I plan to make this the Daily Driver. I'll warn everyone, this mild resto will be VERY SLOW. I hear you folks like photos....here is a few. My buddy the die grinder: Drivers side: Passenger side: Tailgate: IF anyone has any tips on how to handle the tailgate rust (bottom edge is rusting from the inside out) I cleaned and treated both sides of the rotted area, but ther are already holes that are pretty bad on the bottom edge. Meanwhile waiting on repair panels to arrive. All for now. -E.

87Comanche.....Thats the info I was looking for!!! Thanks! I'll have to get under the carpet to see just how far and wide the damage is, and then head to the steel supply house. Thanks much! -E. :jump:

Thanks Boots! I'll most definitely be using the 16ga sheet. Gotta get the seat out and see how bad the damage really is.....

Thanks Eagle. I was just at Home Depot looking at some 16ga panel, and thinking it would be just about right. :D

:thwak:

No worries. I heard a rumor that it should be around 16 gauge, and would really like to know if anyone has a confirmed thickness. Thanks for the info!

Welder found who will weld me up for free! Whoo Hoo. :jump: