lexluthier72

Either one I guess. Id prefer soft, but Id take whatever I can get.

Ford Radio!?! hehe. The kid let me know it would blow the fuse, and not work occasionally. I pulled it out to find the usual rats nest of clipped wires. Heat shrink applied to the loose wires, and new wire nuts, and she works like a charm. Crappy radio, but at least Ive got tunes.

bump....Still looking!!!! Anyone?!?

My name is Erin. From Mpls, MN. By the photo, you may have guessed, I'm a Luthier. And...Here's the MJ 1990 Sport Truck 2.5/4 speed manual 2wd My DD.

Hey All, One of the things I need is a bed cover/tonneau cover. I'm not about to buy one brand new for an outrageous price. Are there other makes/models that fit the comanche with little to no modification? (that I could possibly find used at a decent price) -Erin

I have not pulled carpet up yet!!! (yikes) I can however see carpet pad from under truck. I did find a guy who is going to do all my welding (apparently he owes my sister a favor) He is an industrial welder, and knew right away what I was talking about and how to get it done up right. Speaking of welding, you have a PM about Cab Corners.... :D

I should add, that after a few beers last night, and some time to put my brain in to other things, I'm much less frustrated today. Trying to keep a positive attitude. :banana:

So...Ive been chasing some noises for the last few days. Finally I crawl under the truck....Apparently the kid forgot to clip the fuel lines back up after pulling out the tranny to do the clutch. (although it looks like they could stay in place) The clip was up there, but closed with no fuel lines running through it....Instead, they were laying on the driveshaft!?! Needless to say, I now have 2 really nice shiny spots all the way around my driveshaft. I did catch it in time as to not wear through the fuel line (both metal and rubber there) Got them clipped back to their respective location, and voila....that particular noise is gone. No photo. Then on my way out from under the truck....I find the rear pinion seal leaking. Grr. Doh. That was not there when I bought the truck. (most likely covered in a layer of dirt) I'll post a photo when I get to dealing with the leak. Diff cover bolts are crusty as heck, so I'm letting it soak in some PB Blast. (need to crack it open to find out what gear set to order new pinion seal) Trying to keep a positive attitude. :banana:

Oregon_c350....I have not heard from you in a while. Let me know whats going on with those cab corners.

My reaction to my last rear main bearing was to drive it to the dealership and throw the keys on the guys desk, (2 weeks ago today) they bought the truck back, at a huge discount. Read some of the posts in this thread about my xj, then you would begin to see my frustration....After dumping $4000 into having the rear end overhauled once a year, I finally dumped the truck, after the dealer I sold it to, letting me know I had not seen the whole carfax report on the XJ when I initially bought it and that it had been rear ended hard, and rebuilt, and It would never work right even after replacement of the rear end completely. This pinion leak was not visable when I bought this new MJ 2 weeks ago. Can you folks now see my frustration with rear end work? Id simply like to keep the MJ from pissing oil all over my driveway.

^Ive dealt with both thanks. :D

Ok....No "model number" in the specified location, in the upper right corner, its stamped 35C (which I am to understand means "custom") In the model "location" there is a 2 stamped into the casting. It has smooth brake drums....I assume this means I have a C-clip axle. I'll report when I open the cover. -E.

87warrior....I am in Mpls MN. I got a quote from a mech for $150 (or less) Yes, D35's have build dates, and the early ones are much easier to fix this issue. (use shims instead of crush sleeve to set the preload on the bearings) So, IF I have the earlier axle, changing out the pinion seal is a no brainer (for $20 to not have it pissing in my driveway) Either way, for the $20 I'll risk doing it myself. Ive heard from enough folks already who have been successful in changing out the seal, and in the meantime, I'll start saving for the axle swap. Once I open the diff cover, I'll report back. Got to soak the diff cover bolts in some penetrating oil for a couple days. -E.

I'm sorry. I'm really frustrated. You have no idea the last few weeks Ive had with Jeep rear end issues. I was ready to push the XJ out in to oncoming traffic. Where on the axle tubes might I find a "c-clip" stamp? My axles are pretty cruded up on the outside. I was assuming from my build date 5/29/88 that I do not have a c-clip axle, and therefore do not have a crush sleeve, but apparently it is not safe to assume. -E. IF the only other way to tell what I have, is to tear it apart, I guess thats the next route.

I'm not trying to piss anyone off. I'm merely trying to get correct information. I will take this to the mechanic. I'm sorry I'm seemingly wasting everyone's time. -E. Edit: I did not know the only way to find out gear ratio was to pull the cover (other than the missing tag) I also did not know the only way to ID a "C-clip" axle is to pull the cover. And, the run around I thought I was getting is everyone telling me to just upgrade. Some of us are not made of money. I honestly do not know all the intricacies of finding out which damn axle I have. I do NOT have the money to upgrade. Thanks all for helping me out, and getting me the info I specifically asked for. :wall:

I asked if I in fact had an axle without a crush washer based on the build date, and the advice given was to drive it till it breaks, and upgrade, when all along Ive said, I cannot afford to do that....!?!? Can anyone tell me based on build date which axle I have? The axle tubes are pretty crusty and I can find no markings. Is the only other way to tell what I have to open the diff cover?

The guys at O'Reilly's said there are 2 different pinion seals depending on what gear ratio?!?

Id like to stop this one from leaking! And...I do not have the money for an axle upgrade. I need some info.... Am I correct that I do NOT have a "crush washer" setup?!? IF the above is the case, what is the torque spec for the yolk nut? This D35 is dead quiet, and IF I can get a few more miles out of it by replacing the pinion seal, Id like to. I kind of feel like a few replies have been getting me the run around. :(

UPDATE....After MUCH CURSING as to the amount of crust/rust/buildup on the Diff cover. I ground off the crap to find the build date: 5/29/88 Does this mean I do NOT have a crush washer?!? Let me know!!! This would make alot of relief right now! -E.

The truck is a 1990, I believe the D35 is from the same year (never been changed) Hence the worry about getting this right.... -E.

Thanks Rob. Like I said, I'm just nervous/gun shy because of the last XJ. I have decided to pick up the new seal, and monitor things, and when I'm ready, change it out. My only fear was getting the yoke nut on correctly, and not having noise show up, as I really cannot afford another rebuild. -E.

Thanks Guys! I do need the vote of support! I'm going to pick up the seal soon. I did find a buddy to come give me a hand when I do it. Anyone confirm that Ive got 3.55 gears in my truck? Its a 90 2wd 4 speed. No tag on the diff anymore..... :fs1: Edit: Why are there so many guys warning of gear failure if its not done right?!?

Apparently I need to know what gears are in my Diff before I can get a seal. No tag on my diff anymore. Any idea what came stock in a 4cyl sport truck 2wd?!?

Hey Rob....Thanks! Did you use a torque wrench at all to "set" the nut? Any noise from the rear end? (my big fear) And, how long have you been running on a "new" pinion seal? My concerns come from my last XJ which I eventually sold after 4 rear end rebuilds due to crappy mechanics, and a "lost" car fax explaining the car had been rear ended previously in its life, and rebuilt (this from the dealership) I sold the truck out of frustration as the rear end was never right, even after getting a "new" used rear end. Now you know where my fear comes from. -Erin

Ok...I think I found it...Can someone confirm this is correct? 175-190ft Lbs? (I assume this is using the original crush washer) I now under stand measuring the rotating torque to set the nut. Why is this information so scattered? -Erin Edit!.....OK, a buddy of mine who is an ex mechanic is going to give me a hand changing it out. His advice was also to simply monitor it, and get the seal, and replace when ready. Can anyone confirm how to properly torque the yoke nut back down? AND, whether or not to replace the nut/washer?