relyt120

thanks kkilmer. ill let you know of I find another set. had to get these shipped and the shipping was more than the wheels! taking that clear coat off really does a lot for the appearance. Just need to get the details in order and polish them out

Looks very good.

Ive got one in my garage if you are that desperate

they are aluminum with clearcoat. I have removed most of the clear coat with stripper but some of the residue is being stubborn, especially around the holes and rivets. I used another coat of stripper on one rim and then tried to use a razor blade to scrape but the convex surface made it want to gouge. Decided to used a scotch bright pad and it worked well on the center area but is not precise enough for the rivets. Think I might find a stiff tooth brush and clean each rivet area one by one. I definitely want to avoid wire brushes because one that one rim I have made a lot more work for myself. luckily have 5. Going to used a mothers PowerCone and polish then clear coat them when all said and done. these are going to be my winter project so I'm going to take my time and try to get an awesome final product.

Glad to help! Started to clean up the other 4 wheels with aircraft paint stripper after cleaning them at the car wash. Caked the stuff on there really good and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Took it back to the car wash to power wash the gunk off. Most of it came off but not all of it. I'm going to have to scrap the rest off by hand, I wonder what the best method is??

your biggest issue is going to be that engine, the v6 2.8l. they are the least desirable of mj engines. for the price you can't go wrong but for reliability in winter, i would keep looking. get it, grab all the nice parts and stash them, sell or scrap the rest. for 400 you will be on top no matter what.

I find myself changing my mind a lot with this truck... I had those cheap 10 hole xj rims but then i got ahold of some true blue eliminator ten holes so i am working on cleaning those up now. I'm cleaning, aircraft stripping and polishing them. that last one i took a wire wheel to, hoping it will even out with sanding and polishing. I'm going to ditch the tool box and put in the roll bar i got from a member, not factory but i like it. Also I'm not keeping the grill guard so if anyone wants that hmu.

Saw these really nice panels at the JY here in LaVergne, TN, I already have a set but they are too pretty to let rot. If anyone wants them I am willing to get them and ship at cost.(jy prices) PM me if interested.

I am looking to install a sub and amp behind the seat of my MJ. I have run the maximum number of wires through the grommet on the drivers side of the truck for my remote start and power locks/windows module. Is there a reasonably easy to access hole in the passengers side I can take advantage of? If not has any one ever cut a hole on the passenger side to accommodate wires? Where/how? It will also be useful to have this so the power wire run from the battery will be sorter. Thanks in advance!

I have the gear selector part of the cluster. In my experience most column shifts had idiot lights so I had to convert a 3/4 cluster over to have gauges. I also have a 3/4 cluster on hand too if you need it. PM me if you are interested.

The flags just denote your location. You can put your username and a pic of your rig if you like.

:grrrr: i hate when crap like this happens, i just spent ~250 getting a set of eliminator rims shipped to me and then this comes along within arms reach with the rims, full cluster, buckets, center console, tail lights, ect. I could have turned a profit and got what i wanted! :mad:

only comanche seats bolt into a comanche. you will need brackets unless this guy has already changed them over.

the plastic part you described is all that should be on the fuel line but the regulator has orings and a spacer that get installed first i got mine from amazon . the plastic part that installs the orings and spacers helps a lot but the pic will show you the order if u want to install them another way. its likely that your old regulator had them inside the fitting because they don't come out when you remove it,

its something like 1000lbs. The stock rear bumper can't take much punishment. Probably best to not tow anything with it, it'll just bend. I don't think I would pay $300 to get that installed but its your money!

Hole-y Moly!

:ack: I didn't want to risk damaging the cat or the tailpipe, I only replaced the muffler.

Okay so a few things have been done. I changed out the muffler after fighting with the rusted old one for hours and managed to pull a muscle or something. The new battery is in but I still need to throw the new cables in to match the battery and post connectors. I picked up a Roll bar for it! Not factory but I like it, stripping and repainting now. Found a maroon center console at the junk yard so I'm cleaning that up for future install. Also have a line on a set of real Eliminator wheels so I'm all smiles :D All the pieces are coming together. pics to follow

the ones from advance do fit the stock injectors for sure. The manual calls for 2 different ones for each end of injector but they apparently started making some that fit both ends, they are the brown 2 pack from advance. You may need orings that are for the vehicle your injectors came out of though.

my cousin is looking for an older beemer. Is this a good one? looks nice :thumbsup:

One of the few things to like on this truck :agree:

you should provide more details : location, price, lwd or swb?

:needpics:

Looks like he had a column shift and changed over to floor shift without swapping the column or the gauge cluster :fs1:

Most old manual vehicles will jump forward if you try to start it in first, just don't do it, or hold the clutch down. You may need a new speedometer cable, the Speedo is mechanical so a busted cable is about the only thing that will make it not work. As for your signals, check your turn signal flasher, its on the fuse box , if your hazards work you can swap the two flashers for a quick fix.