87MJTIM

What yr is your truck?

It was mentioned prior, check the glove box or vanity mirror. The 88 electric FSM has the floor lamp, B pillar lamps, cargo bed, and glove box are all fed from the dome fuse. This is hot all the time. The vanity (passenger visor) and cigar lighter getting power from both the dome and radio fuse. This fuse only is hot when in Run. Do you have the cargo box light? The cargo lamp is powered by the switch on the dash. It has an LED to show when it is turned on. It the switch is bad, the light my be on all the time. In a dark location, like a closed garage or "a dark and stormy night" sit inside the truck and look for any lights on.

Can you put a speed bleed on the end of the clutch line? It would help us "one man" mechanics.

Have you recently done any electrical modifications? Perhaps a new/diff radio. I suggest this because some radios draw a lot of power to keep station presets and clocks. my 2¢ I saw a video on youtube how to test for parasitic draws. Hook a DVOM up to the batt. See how much current is flowing. Then start pulling fuses to see when the reading drops. That circuit is were you start your search.

If you have a 98 AX, than you do not need to change the bearing retainer plate. The later model AX has the correct plate all ready. The older AX (internal slave) used a shorter post bearing retainer plate. This was because the release bearing traveled less. The new AX (external slave) uses a longer post bearing retainer plate. This is because the release bearing travels further. Hope that helps.

For carpeting, I bought mine from Stock Interiors. http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=2720&MakeId=14&ModelId=249

What year Jeep did the AX15 come out of? The input shaft diameter changed (94?) to a larger diam. That means the ID of pilot bushing/bearing needs to be larger. There is a thread on here about which PB to get. I believe it was for 74, CJ5, 304 V8. Go to www.rockauto.com and search for the PB size for that engine.

Trace the wiring back to the source, using the FSM. Then go to the trans. "You mission, Jim, should you decide to accept it, is to...."

Here is my AX15 swap. Scroll to the 10th picture to see the linkage that mounts to the trans tunnel. The AX15 version is mounted; the BA10 is in my hand. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/

Here is the 88 electrical FSM. Download it to you computer and use it to trace the wiring through the engine. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

It dropped down the passenger side. Look at the picture in 88whitemanche's link. Look for a 4 pin connector. If the PO re-wired to a switch in the cab, he (probably) would have wired through that connector.

I cut the end off the wiring harness and connected a two prong adapter that plugs into the AX15 reverse switch. I got it at PepBoys.

Here is my swap. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/

Good to hear you have the AX15. Since you are 2wd, forget the bit about the tcase. Completing the job in 6 hrs, given that you have never done this and don't have a lift, is virtually impossible. (Some who have done it and have the luxury of a lift will may say otherwise.) I am not sure about having to change the clutch. I've been told (by a real mechanic) that it is not necessary because of a fluid leak. You can pull the clutch to inspect it. If you do, you will need to get a clutch alignment tool to reinstall the parts. It can be a real PITA to get it to line up properly. I would suggest you search CL and Ebay for the ext slave bellhousing, including internal parts. In addition to those, you will need the pre-bled clutch master/slave cylinders. They're at RockAuto for approx. $80.

My truck was on its 5th internal slave cylinder in 28 yrs. It didn't get a 6th. I did the AX15, external slave swap last month. As for your situation, if you don't want to swap to an AX15, I would suggest getting an int. slave from a stealership. It will be (maybe) better quality than you will get from auto parts stores. (Chinese Replacement Auto Parts) I purchased a trans jack from Harbor Freight for approx. $90. It has come in handy on my MJ and CJ, both getting AX15s. If you have never done this before, don't let it scare you. It just held on with bolts. (Some are VERY hard to reach, though.) Plan on a whole weekend, since this is new. There are a lot of write up about this on Comanche Club and JeepForum on removing trans/changing clutches. Before I tackle most auto repair jobs, I will consult my repair manual: You Tube! Search for "Change Jeep TJ clutch." It about 2 hrs long. You can see what is involved in dropping the trans and replacing the clutch (you are only changing the internal slave and this guys trans in ext, but you get the idea). While on YT, search for other videos about changing Jeep trans/clutches. There is a lot useful (and useless) info on there. If this continues to be a problem, start saving up for an AX15. Search Craigslist for Jeep parts and whole Jeeps for sale cheap. I've seen AX15s for sale for as low as $250. EDIT: You did not say what trans you have currently. The 89 year is when Jeep switch from the BA10/5 to the AX15. Both had the int. slave. If you have a later model with the AX15, then you only need to search CL for the ext. slave bellhousing. If you have the BA, then search for an AX15 from a 94+ XJ. These came with the ext slave. You will also need the tcase from the XJ. The tcase from the BA will not bolt up to an AX without changes to the Tcase. Hope this helps.

There are a few write ups on doing HO swaps. You will have to research for it. I have not done it. What I have read, though, it that the electronics are completely diff from Renix to HO. So a complete interior swap may have to be done.

You did not mention what engines are in each Jeep. I will assume both are 4.0. If the MJ runs fine, you could swap over the trans and tcase from the XJ. You will need to get a new rear drive shaft. The MJ will need a longer one than the XJ has. After that you maybe good to go. I say you should swap BOTH the trans and tcase because the output/input shaft spline counts changed. The 87 trans may not fit up with the 96 tcase. If you want to do a complete engine/drivetrain swap, that is more involved. You will need to take everything out of the XJ and put it into the MJ: engine, wiring both engine bay and interior, and swap over the dash as well. Nice find on both Jeeps. The MJ floors don't look as bad as mine did.

http://chambersburg.craigslist.org/cto/5200455862.html Went out to look at it. I need floors that are reasonably intact. This did not have 'em. Here's what it has, if anyone is interested. 88 Pioneer, 2.5, AX5, 2wd, D35. Interior: Tan/beige, except for driver's seat, interior panels were present and looked good, passenger seat present, door panels present and in good shape. Headliner was present and intact. Fabric missing. Dash instruments were missing. Exterior: front end not damaged (a little dirty), leaf springs were present. No tail light or tailgate. Front axle was gone.

The speedo gear is in the tcase for the 4wd. You will need to get a gear based on the wheels you plan on running. The plugs may be diff by mechanical (cable) and electronic (wire). I don't know if the speedo parts from 2wd trans will swap in to a 4wd tcase.

I've had to lower the trans and loosen the pressure plate several times to make sure the input shaft will line up. My suggestion for you is to check the alignment of the pressure plate before you tighten the bolts on it :doh: . I have had to undo them to get things to line up correctly.

Thx. I am not a welder, so I cannot fabricate the parts. What cable can I get to replace the longer cable?

While I have my console and carpeting out, I was looking at converting to an XJ hand brake. The ratchets on the foot pedal won't hold any more. How can I locate the handle on the trans tunnel? I don't see any markings for making a cut out. With out the console installed, I don't know how far backwards/forward to position the handle. Does some have a template or pointers on positioning the handle? Thx

For flushing it, I would fill it with 75-90 gear oil. Run it for a few hundred miles. Drain. Refill. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. You could possibly use just 10w-30 oil for the flushing steps. 10/30 is much cheaper than gear oil. There is a lot of postings about which oil to use/not use. Many people say to stay away from GL5 rating. For a final fill, I use Pennzoil Syncromesh. For the output seal: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=253205&cc=1185005&jnid=477&jpid=1 You could get one at most autoparts stores.

Looks like a bullet hole. Must have been transmission season down there.

I believe 91 is electric, not cable. That was the first yr. of the Chrysler HO. I know, I had a 91 XJ.