87MJTIM

True. Start with the easy stuff first.

He said is hazards work, but turn does not. I found that when I had similar issues. The signal switch was the common unit for both the TURN and BRAKE.

Get a wiring diagram and a multi-meter.

Most auto parts stores let you rent tools. The steering wheel puller is usually one of them.

I had a similar issue several years ago. Flashers worked. No turn signal or brake lights. I first replaced brake light switch. Did not fix it. I studied the wiring diagram and found the common connection for the two was the turn signal directional switch. Replaced it and the problem was fixed. I have not had the problem since. http://www.morris4x4center.com/turn-signal-switch-directional-56002011.html

Now you have two transmission cross members. Like said, the rear drive shaft won't fit Every thing from the tcase forward will swap. Get the XJ for parts!

Root for the Birds If I put $ on the game- the Pats (They say a fool and his $ are soon parted. I ain't no fool)

Cruiser, Nick's tool (REM) does seem to work. Yesterday, I plugged in the MT2500 and noted the readings on it. I then reconnected the REM tool and noted the readings on it. Good news: I got the same readings. On a bad note: My O2 sensor is reading a constant 4.98v and is in constant open loop, both MT2500 and REM :mad:

Some people have taken the older linkage and flipped over. You can search for that on here (and other Jeep forums) to check how it worked out.

Kook911, I have one of those. too bulky to fit in the cab and too difficult to operate while driving. With Nick's REM tool, I can check systems while driving. But, still a good tool to have :thumbsup:

I used Frams for year. Mostly because that's what the parts stores carry and their not expensive. I've never had any issues. Of course, I change oil 3000 to 5000 miles or 6 months, which ever occurs first. That said, I have discontinued using Fram after all that I have read about them.

If your MJ is auto, them most likely you will need to change or regear the rear axle to match the front. I don't know what the 4 cyl had for axle gears, but 4.0 autos were 3.55 while manuals were 3.07. If the two trucks have different trans, then it is probable that axles are different. That said, you are dealing with 30 +/- year old trucks. Who knows what previous owners changed on them.

:soap box: The hierarchy lists "Pre-CJ." Isn't that just Willys-Overland? Or maybe just the '41-'45 MBs. After all, these were the only "Jeeps" that are Pre-CJ. Now, off my :soap box:

The strategy of overpricing the Wrangler seems to have worked quite well though. There's millions of them here. My hand gets sore from all the waving.

I am saying that the PP should match the year of the trans, especially if the trans uses an external slave. You can use the PP from the 95, but you most likely will need to change the pilot bushing

I did the swap in '15 from the BA10 to ext-AX15. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/ I kept the pressure plate that was for the BA10. My shifting has gotten stiffer, especially from 1st to 2nd, but all gears require some pushing to change gears. No grinding of gears. I did research on rockauto for part number changes for the pressure plates. The PP part number stayed the same when Jeep switched from the BA10 to AX15 (mid -89)(Sachs SC1675). Both trans used an internal slave. When Jeep switched to an external slave (93), the PP number changed (Sachs SC1890). I would suggest you change at least the PP. FYI - the clutch disk part number did not change for any of the years. I have read that hard shifting like I am experiencing is clutch related, like the PP.

+1 :thumbsup:

We can be comforted that this issue with Fiat does not effect the Jeep brand.

Two issues/questions re: speedo Wasn't the 91 an electronic mileage odometer? The one shown is an analog odometer. My 91 XJ has e-odometer, but it was a 4.0, 5 spd. Isn't the speedo from an earlier model? The 0 mph is at the 8 o'clock position. This was on the early model MJ/XJs (my 87 MJ). Later model speedos have the 0 mph at the 9 o'clock position. With the wood grain bezel and the speedo, it looks like it has been changed.

Nickintime has on his facebook page a "possible" relocation of the units display to the clock panel location, making it part of the panel, not a separate box. However, his reply to my comment is that it would replace the existing panel. So, if you have a factory clock (which mine does) and it still works (mine does), his panel would replace the factory panel, ie: no clock. He said he might build in a clock. I am still trying to figure out where to mount mine. I was looking at the blank space to the left of the lighter. I have nothing in that spot, but the Cat5 cable interferes with that location. My second spot is on the dash, next to the A pillar. Easily viewable and reachable when driving, but will be baking in the summer sun.

link correction: http://www.morris4x4center.com/ Sorry for the wrong link. jeep4x4center.com will work also.

Go to Morris Jeep (www.jeep4x4.com). Scroll down the page. In the lower left side, select Knowledge Base. Select Repair Manuals. Select vehicle: Cherokee; then select year 1996-2001; in category select: Wiring Diagram. Download. Done.

Thanks for the offer, but let's just shake hands :rotf: I notice a few year back that my MPG dropped a lot. I used to get 400+ on a tank. Now, I get ~325 per tank. I don't do as much highway driving, but that should not change the MPG that much. The scan tool showed my long term fuel trim is +25%. That may account for the drop in MPG.

Maybe I will ask for a rebate on my purchase.

Yes. It just gives raw numbers. It cannot effect engine operations or performance.