87MJTIM

If your MJ is auto, them most likely you will need to change or regear the rear axle to match the front. I don't know what the 4 cyl had for axle gears, but 4.0 autos were 3.55 while manuals were 3.07. If the two trucks have different trans, then it is probable that axles are different. That said, you are dealing with 30 +/- year old trucks. Who knows what previous owners changed on them.

:soap box: The hierarchy lists "Pre-CJ." Isn't that just Willys-Overland? Or maybe just the '41-'45 MBs. After all, these were the only "Jeeps" that are Pre-CJ. Now, off my :soap box:

The strategy of overpricing the Wrangler seems to have worked quite well though. There's millions of them here. My hand gets sore from all the waving.

I am saying that the PP should match the year of the trans, especially if the trans uses an external slave. You can use the PP from the 95, but you most likely will need to change the pilot bushing

I did the swap in '15 from the BA10 to ext-AX15. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48136-my-ax15-swap/ I kept the pressure plate that was for the BA10. My shifting has gotten stiffer, especially from 1st to 2nd, but all gears require some pushing to change gears. No grinding of gears. I did research on rockauto for part number changes for the pressure plates. The PP part number stayed the same when Jeep switched from the BA10 to AX15 (mid -89)(Sachs SC1675). Both trans used an internal slave. When Jeep switched to an external slave (93), the PP number changed (Sachs SC1890). I would suggest you change at least the PP. FYI - the clutch disk part number did not change for any of the years. I have read that hard shifting like I am experiencing is clutch related, like the PP.

+1 :thumbsup:

We can be comforted that this issue with Fiat does not effect the Jeep brand.

Two issues/questions re: speedo Wasn't the 91 an electronic mileage odometer? The one shown is an analog odometer. My 91 XJ has e-odometer, but it was a 4.0, 5 spd. Isn't the speedo from an earlier model? The 0 mph is at the 8 o'clock position. This was on the early model MJ/XJs (my 87 MJ). Later model speedos have the 0 mph at the 9 o'clock position. With the wood grain bezel and the speedo, it looks like it has been changed.

Nickintime has on his facebook page a "possible" relocation of the units display to the clock panel location, making it part of the panel, not a separate box. However, his reply to my comment is that it would replace the existing panel. So, if you have a factory clock (which mine does) and it still works (mine does), his panel would replace the factory panel, ie: no clock. He said he might build in a clock. I am still trying to figure out where to mount mine. I was looking at the blank space to the left of the lighter. I have nothing in that spot, but the Cat5 cable interferes with that location. My second spot is on the dash, next to the A pillar. Easily viewable and reachable when driving, but will be baking in the summer sun.

link correction: http://www.morris4x4center.com/ Sorry for the wrong link. jeep4x4center.com will work also.

Go to Morris Jeep (www.jeep4x4.com). Scroll down the page. In the lower left side, select Knowledge Base. Select Repair Manuals. Select vehicle: Cherokee; then select year 1996-2001; in category select: Wiring Diagram. Download. Done.

Thanks for the offer, but let's just shake hands :rotf: I notice a few year back that my MPG dropped a lot. I used to get 400+ on a tank. Now, I get ~325 per tank. I don't do as much highway driving, but that should not change the MPG that much. The scan tool showed my long term fuel trim is +25%. That may account for the drop in MPG.

Maybe I will ask for a rebate on my purchase.

Yes. It just gives raw numbers. It cannot effect engine operations or performance.

He has lots of videos on youtube. Search for the REM videos. You posted a link. It's your responsibility to post the link to the video you want us to watch. :oops: Sorry, my bad. He has a lot of videos that track the development of the unit. Some of them are pretty "geeky." If anyone is interested, they can search his youtube channel and watch them.

this video demonstrates the monitors.

That is one of many he has on the monitor.

He has lots of videos on youtube. Search for the REM videos.

For all of us MJ owners with Renix engines (Don "Hornbrod", you can close this thread now. :yes: ), a guy in NJ has designed and built a scan tool that can monitor your system in real time. He has a Youtube channel and a facebook page. Search for "Nickintime" on either site. He has lots of videos of the design and testing of the units. The unit plugs in to the scan port in the engine bay. He give you a 10' cable to run in to the cab to connect to the scan tool. I purchased one and just rec'd it this week. I plugged it in and was playing with it today. (It is too frickin' cold out to try and route the cable.) Looks pretty nice. It can display four system reading on screen at one time. You can select which reading to display. While playing with it, I see that my LT Fuel Trim is up 25% :eek:, 159 over 128. I guess I will be performing some diagnosis. Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_8-XIaYYPVI69FPc76y6lw Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/nickintimefilms/

:thumbsup: :banana: :clapping: :rock on:

You can undo the wiring harness. Test the lighting without the trailer harness. Make sure the grounds are good. Make sure you have the proper lights in the sockets. The brake lights are dual filament lights (1057?). If you use/need the wiring, there is a write up in the DIY section on the proper way to do it.

I just did a "google" search for the part #53010511aa. A diagram shows it sandwich between the bearing cap and the oil pan gasket. So, it is a secondary gasket. http://www.quirkparts.com/oe-mopar/53010511aa

do you have a trailer wiring harness? often, these are improperly wired and can cause symptoms similar to yours.

Minuit, You confirmed what I thought. Top to bottom: 1) bearing cap, 2) rubber gasket, 3) oil pan, 4) metal strap. Then the bolts go through the strap, oil pan, rubber gasket into the block.

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing.