87MJTIM

Here is the link to FB: https://www.facebook.com/nickintimefilms/

6323052847990790 Expires 7/30/17

It was nice seeing other CC members and their MJs. It was also good to see lots of other jeeps. I will not enter my MJ next year. The show doesn't favor "stock" Jeeps. Too many JKs and heavily modified XJs. The best stock Jeeps are older CJs/MBs and FSJs. I will still go to shop around.

My 87 has the off-road package. It has the D44, heavy duty alternator

That thought had crossed my mind. The HOA frowns on storing cars on properties. I dislike HOAs

(I am not a "computer" expert by any stretch.) Other forums allow members to directly upload pictures and videos on the chat board. Is this feature available through the current web hosting company? For example, Jeepforum allow direct upload capabilities. However, with all the ads on the site, it takes DAYS for pages to load and refresh.

The 86 in the JY here locally still has the spare up under the bed. Are those hooks only for 86? Was this a transition year? Would it be worth getting?

I got it!

3/4 clusters were mostly complete gauge set, minus tach. Still had a large fuel gauge. You are correct Crash. There is no tach. The fuel gauge is large and in the place of the tach. The lower left of the cluster (where the fuel gauge would go) is blank.

86 was only long beds. It is not bad. There are some vertical cracks on the side. Could not see the bottom - junk was thrown in it.

Update: I just stopped in and ordered the following: Rear fender flares Rear bed light Cluster (3/4 cluster) Clock Radio (will send to Minuit) Tailgate What it still has: D35 Spare tire hanger Load sensing valve Interior is in good condition Bench seat just needs cleaning - no cuts or tears Rear cab panel and plastic cap. B-pillar panels Head liner is intact - fabric is sagging in a couple locations The bed is dented, but no visible rust. 10 slotted grill (bumper is pushed in warping the grill, but I think it would straighten up fine)

It's a southern thing, you wouldn't understand. ;) Hey, I'm south of the M-D line! Born and raised. (Not by much...but still south of it.)

BUMMER. Is the sending unit compatible with FI?

Is that "parked" on its side?

I was planning on send you the 2.8 :brows: Yes, it would be nice if it had an AMC20. I will look for it.

This 86 MJ is in a local JY. I saw it a few years ago. The shop was using it to run around through the yard. It looks like they ran it into the ground. https://frederick.craigslist.org/pts/6196549836.html I thinkin': Rear fender flares Fuel pump/sending unit Bed rails - for my truck Rear window? Anything else I should get? Noted in picture: Driver's side tail light has a hole Tailgate is dented

Yes, I saw that.

https://winchester.craigslist.org/cto/6181100884.html $6000 too rich for me, but nice looking.

If you're a 90 then you are not OBD. You have a Renix Jeep. In order to read the codes from the ECU you need to get either a SnapOn MT2500 scanner with the Jeep card and adapter plug or search on Facebook or Youtube for "Nickintime." He makes a Renix Engine Monitor (REM) the can read and display the codes in real time. Unfortunately, for either of the above monitors to work with a Renix, the engine has to be running. :doh: So, until you solve the first issue (getting it running) neither device will do you much good.

How old is the lower rad hose? It have an internal wire/spring to keep it from closing/collapsing in on itself. If the hose is spongy or the spring has rusted away, the water pump can cause the hose to close, thus restricting the flow of coolant. The low speed and higher RPMs of climbing could increase the vacuum of the water pump. If you are not sure of the age/condition of the hoses, it may make sense to change both hoses when you have the system serviced.

Do you have an auxiliary fan? If so, does it turn on when the temp rises? check the radiator temp switch or the cooling fan relay.

Follow up: For the oil pressure gauge, I borrowed a pressure tester to see what the oil psi is coming from the engine. I disconnected the wire and unscrewed the sending unit. I connected the tester. I turned the key to run. The needle on the gauge rose straight up to 80 psi. That tells me the gauge is working. Started the engine. The needle on the tester bounced from 54 to 60 psi with a cold engine. Gave the engine some gas and the needle held steadier at 60 psi. Does this indicate a bad sending unit? or am I missing something. The other gauges seem to be working (except temp).

photobucket isn't working Edit: Finally got it to work. PhB takes too long to load all the adds and pop-ups Blue: Red:

Where does someone like me find one of those "thingies"?

My MJ came with full gauges in blue. Several years ago, I swapped out the gauges to the red ones. I have changed my mind and want to go back to the blue ones. However, some of the gauges do not read correctly (oil and temp). The red OP gauge was reading pressure at 40 - 60 psi. The old blue is reading <20. When I turn the key to start the engine, the OP needle buries far down to the left. The temp gauge has always read low (could be the sending unit). I will use the blue tach and speedo. Can I swap the faces from the blue on to the mechanical parts of the reds? I tried to pull the needles off the red units but could not get the to pop off. Do I need to pull harder? (Before you comment, all the clusters I have [4] are renix era, blue cases, cable drive speedos. Two AMC, one Chryco, and one not sure.)