87MJTIM

That’s the “check engine, stupid “ light

He is the correct cross member with the drop.

On YouTube, "the Fast Lane Truck" channel did a series on an MJ. One episode had them pay to get a BA 10 rebuilt. They spent about $2000 to rebuild it. After that, it surprisingly was still a BA10!!!

I swapped in an AX15 with an external slave cylinder several years ago. My issue with the BA10 was the external slave cylinders. In approx. 25 years, it was on its fifth slave cylinder. Some lasted many years; one lasted just 2+ years. My transmission was never a problem. That said, if you switch to an AX15, there a several other parts needed for a conversion: a matching t-case (if 4x4), the cross member, the transmission mounting bracket, the exhaust pipe hanger, and the t-case shifter linkage (if 4x4). If I missed something, other may add them. If you convert to an external slave cylinder, you will need the correct bell housing, front bearing cover, release fork, and proper clutch kit. Also, you need the hydraulic clutch system. You can find most of the parts in a local junk yard from a manual XJ. i gathered all the parts then did swap in my driveway over one weekend - by my self. I am not a mechanic, but I am "YouTube Certified." Don't let it intimidate you. It is just a bunch of nuts and bolts.

The red wire does not look "factory." With the in-line fuse, could it feed an after market radio? The other "cable" could be from of the cruise control servo. Where does the other end connect to? Does it connect to the bracket with the accelerator cable on the throttle body?

The owners manual calls for 10W30. I don’t remember the intervals. I’ve done every 5000 miles or 6 months.

I read a lot of reviews of Jasper engines. Most were favorable. There were many unfavorable also. I understand that most reviewers have issues. People that don’t have issues don’t typically reply. So, it was good to read positive reviews. The engine must have been a “Monday “ engine.

I want to give an update to this. The Jasper engine arrived at the end of March. The mechanic got it installed a week later. I wasn’t able to get it then. (My work keeps me busy until April 18. I am a CPA preparing taxes.) I received a text from him that it was dripping oil. He was going to reseal the oil pan. When he dropped the pan, there was metal shavings in the pan. 😯 One of the Cam bearings was toasted. It hasn’t even been driven! Jasper will send a replacement engine. I am not getting a warm feeling for Jasper. I will follow up with more info as I get it.

That’s because the thread is for a transfer case shifter. Th BA10 is a transmission.

Pictures of an AX15 cross member and mount

Poorly worded. The TT battery is charged through the 7 pin connector. The frig runs off the TT battery.

That is why I go to the RV shows. We go inside may different styles. We look for counter top space, cabinet storage, bathroom layout, and "traffic flow" in-out-around the TT. We decide if those features work for us. One new feature that TTs are installing is 12v refrigerators. You no longer need shore supply and/or propane to run the refrigerator. It can run off the on-board battery and be charged from the tow vehicle's alternator when towing

Someone opening the door from outside while I'm (or anyone else) is...um...reading. There are other features on TTs that would cause me to walk away. The exterior bathroom door is just one. But, other may want that option for reasons Pete listed.

This is just my attitude, but... If a TT has an exterior door to the bathroom, I walk away.

My wife and I have owned several travel trailers (TT) in the past 15+ years. Currently, we have a 34' TT that we tow with a Chevy Sub - 8.1 liter engine. The trailer GVW is 10,000. (We are looking to downsize now that our kid is finishing college and will join the working world. Hopefully.) We like to go to RV shows in our area. There are usually two a year - Feb and Sept. The dealers offer significant discount on TTs. You don't have to buy, but you can look at many different brands and sizes at one time. You can walk around inside each one. Look to see how everything is positioned: kitchen counter space, cabinet storage, sleeping arrangements, and most important, the bathroom. I always stand in the shower, pull the curtain/door closed, and raise my arms, like I am washing my hair. Are my arms hitting the sides/door/ceiling. You said you are tall. You will have to consider head room as well. While you may see lots of different maker's names and models, there are really only three different manufactures. The TT will all have the same layouts across makes and models. Kind of like GM vehicles: Chevy, Buick, Olds, Pontiac, Cadillac.

Fix that grill! It’s upside down.

Just FYI: Hornbrod is no longer with us.

I drop them together, but install them separately. Trying to slide into the pilot bushing with full length of both was just difficult. I have a Horror Fright trans jack in my driver way.

The more recent noise did become less "loud" after running for a while, the earlier noise did get louder after warming up, but is was not as noticeable at start up. This is my recollection today of events that occurred previously. I did not mean to confuse the sounds. As for Stage 1 CAMs: what I wrote is what I read on the internet (so, it must be true, right?). I did not consider vacuum or possibly other issues. Yes, it is a daily driver, not a "race" truck.

Update (Conclusion?) Kenny (my mechanic) got an opinion from another guy that rebuilds engines. The guy said the crank would need to be replaced or turned. Kenny and I discussed several options. He thought that to work on it properly, it would be best to pull it. (I know, some of you will say YOU can do that work with the engine still in the truck. Well, Kenny runs an auto repair business. He makes his money by repairing cars. He is not an engine rebuilder. He cannot dedicate all his time to working on my engine. The other guy he spoke to does that type of work, but is backed up and wouldn't be able to get to mine for a few months.) We talked about other issues with the engine. Issues that may have caused the excess wear on the bearings. For a long time (I am talking several years) the oil pressure has been running at 60 psi. I perform oil changes every 3000 to 5000 miles. I have used Penzoil 10-30 practically every change since new. Since the prior rebuild, I have used NAPA Gold filters. (So, please don't ask again.) There has been a constant "ticking" (knocking?) sound for a long time, also. I don't know which started first: high OP or the ticking. Both have been present since shortly after the rebuild. As I detailed previously, I thought it the sound was an exhaust leak. I replaced the manifold gasket and retightened the bolts. I periodically would re-snug them down. The noise was still there. As a matter of fact, the noise was louder when the engine was warm. I next thought the noise might be a lifter tick. Two weeks ago, as the noise got louder still, I removed the valve cover to see if there were loose rocker. I couldn't detect any that were excessively loose. I started the engine to watch the rocker. I was looking for any that were not moving or not moving as much as other. There was no obvious difference in movement for any of them. I only ran the engine for a minute or two.... One thing I did see was that very little oil was coming up through the push rods. Let repeat that: there was very little oil getting up through the push rods! This is what Kenny and I discussed. We think that an oil blockage my be causing the poor oil flow. Poor oil flow would cause excess wear on the bearings. If the crank was changed but the (possible) blockage was not addressed, I would be back there in a few years with the same issues. So.... I am having him install a reman'd engine. He will have it later next month and installed. I will have my truck back sooner than a rebuild would take. Also, he asked if I would like to upgrade to a Stage 1 CAM. It could give 10% more power and torque. (I read up on this mod: more lift and longer duration.) For everyone that wants to offer advice - "You shoulda..." " I woulda...", thank you. My decision is made. The die is cast. I have crossed the Rubicon.

it’s laying down on the side

You should probably just focus on any connector that appears bad. Take the harness out and ohm test wires from one end to the other. Replace only the ones that show problems. De-pin one wire at a time, clean it, then re-plug it in. Tedious and time consuming.

GS offered a discounted price if enough MJ owners ordered sets. They needed like a dozen or more to make the production worth the time and money. I heard recently that the MJ springs are contracted out to another supplier.

You can de-pin the connector and try to identify the type. The three common connector in the Jeep are: Packard, Metri Pack, and Weather Pack. Search on Del City (delcity.net). Search for other suppliers on line also. Del City did not list the proper size pins. (Pins are measure by width. A Metri Pack 280 pin is 2.8 mm wide, not length.) Our Jeeps use ~1.5 or 150 (I think).

my set up. A laptop underneath with two 32” monitors connected through a docking station