DirtyComanche

Linkage works great. Wouldn't do it any other way at this point. Hits all the gates, doesn't pop out of gear.

Speed isn't really the issue. It's just going to wear things out more. Slamming the case into 4hi while you've got varied traction can cause issues. If the rear tires are spinning when you do it there can be a rather abrupt coupling of torque at the case. That's what will break something. All in all you can be pretty abusive and it's unlikely anything will ever break.

You can shift into 4hi at any speed. I don't recall what the official literature says, up to 45mph sounds about right. At any speed there is risk of damage (like the tcase blowing apart) if the conditions are perfectly wrong. Don't drive around in 4hi on dry pavement if you have a NP231 (Part time tcase). A NP242 or other full time tcases can do it, as long as they're in the full time position.

The word C#*@ is censored? Like, to C#*@ a gun?

Also, another thing I did prior to pulling this apart was to swap the clutch pedal and pivot bushings out for a known good one. I noticed there was a lot of play in the pedal and it would C#*@ over, even jamming it all the way to the floor would not cause the pedal to contact the 'stop' on the bracket. That said, I don't think the pedal is supposed to contact there, but I am curious what people have to say? It's still maybe 3/16" away, or so I recall, I'd have to check again. I did possibly gain a little travel by swapping it over though, and the pedal feels better, so I'm glad I did it either way. Regardless, it did not solve the issue, it still did the same thing where everything seemed okay until I drove it a bit and then it would not disengage. I was able to get the truck to creep on my garage floor (which is basically perfectly level, I did not have it poured with a grade, no code against that here) with the clutch pedal all the way down, both forwards and reverse. Anyways, I'm still not sure what to say the issues I am having are caused by. Maybe a stackup of things? Random friction disk, worn out flywheel, beat up pilot bushing, and perhaps a sloppy pedal all coming together in a perfect storm? Or I'll put it back together and it still won't work. :doh:

So I can't say for certain what is wrong. Bear with me on the pictures, I had to Imgur this because Photobucket is garbage and won't upload (plus has deleted a bunch of my pictures). Imgur doesn't auto resize, but I think the forum does so hopefully it isn't too bad... The pressure plate is a Luk, and appears to more or less match the one I purchased. It doesn't look like it has any excessive wear or damage on it. I'm guessing it was new as of the swap. The friction disk was not a Luk, rather it was marked T-NKK. It still had a fair whack of meat on it. I'm not sure if the flywheel is OEM or not. It still had a slight crown to it. I wasn't thinking when I measured the wear on it and measured it from the bolt face instead of the mounting surface, but compared to the new Luk one it is about .020" of wear. I should measure it again correctly. You can see there is more crown on the new flywheel. I probably could have got all technical and measured that with feeler gauges. Unfortunately I've screwed myself. The AX-15 is a 92, to match the tcase, and thus I will need a pilot bushing from a CJ. This one was pretty mangled before I slide hammered it out. Hopefully I can get one tomorrow.

So I have some family stuff going on and figured I'd take most of the scrap out of my back yard before I tore the truck apart, but I did manage to pull the tranny tonight. Two things I noted. The asshat that put this thing together reused the e-torx bolts, one of them just about smeared right off on me... And there is a pilot bushing in the crank, and it is mangled. I'm going to try to pull the clutch off after dinner and see if there's anything else I can figure out at the time. It is a Luk clutch, so I'm guessing it was new as of the tranny swap, but who knows.

If you want manual control, he's the guy to go to. I still have a BrettM controller somewhere... BUT, they had issues. I don't know enough about how the TCM works to know how to make it happen in a factory like install. There is a guy on Pirate that has been making adapters for the AW4 to some odd options, so there might be some decent info on Pirate if you're willing to wade through the crap...

There's a steel beam across my shop with two chain hoists and trolleys on it. Like I said, I'd just need to put a couple anchors/eyebolts in the top of it and I can pick it up. On my old Dodge I used to take the one it had off that way, there was brackets on it for putting a boat on it or something that I could hook to, then I'd just set it on the back of my plow truck for the summer. Well, I cut my plow truck in half, so even a short box MJ canopy won't fit on it. :rotf: That said, I could probably put some brackets on the plow truck to hold it. Hmm. That might be easiest. The plow truck rarely moves in the summer, I don't even take the chains off normally.

That would be fairly easy to make. I'd need to put some big pneumatic tires on it so it would roll outside easily though.

That's a badass old floor jack. Way better than any of the junk sold today.

Looks like a solid truck :thumbsup:

Ah. The PCM is silver box, yes? Always got those two confused. ECM. It's only really controlling the engine. But yes, it's the silver box above the accelerator pedal. PCM is more of a newer/ODBII thing where you start to integrate all of the vehicles systems, often still used in conjunction with an ECM/TCM/ABS/Cruise modules/etc (acts as a liaison between these things and allows for centralized diagnostics of all systems).

For a front driveshaft any 4L/Ax-15/NP231 XJ one should work, but they might be a little different if you go with one that's too new (should still bolt up). Ultimately I use a tape measure to confirm.

I meant I'd build it rather than buying it as something prefabricated that was meant to go on an XJ/MJ. I don't really understand what you want. I take it your truck is a 2wd. And it's been lifted via a SOA, so you want 6" of lift in the front or so... But it's a 2wd. So unless you're jumping it at the dirt track, you're probably not going to care too much about offroad performance. So, I'm thinking you really want this for ride quality, but you don't want radius arms because??? Radius arms do have drawbacks from the standpoint of suspension behaviour. A poorly designed 4 link can easily have similar issues. However, many people are driving radius arm setups on the road and find them to be perfectly acceptable. The drawbacks of radius arms can be largely mitigated on the street by dropping the frame side mount point, which if you aren't wheeling it won't be an issue. Beyond that the poor placement of the track (panhard) bar mounts is the main issue with making it handle real nice. If you aren't wheeling it, you aren't going to care about flex, so the inherent bind of a traditional radius arm setup isn't going to matter to you, and you do not need to run a wristed (or whatever snazzy marketing term is currently being used for that) setup to allow for more flex (which has more odd handling issues than the traditional setup). If I was you, and assuming you're intending to use the truck for what I think, I'd find the cheapest radius arm setup that looks okay and isn't welded by barefoot children in China. I would make sure it used poly high quality bushings for long life, and had a reasonable attachment system to the uniframe. I'd then probably figure out a way to drop frame side brackets 2" or so. If I really wanted to feel comfortable in the truck at highway speeds I would get the biggest antisway bar I could find, and I would build new brackets for the track bar and either build or buy a new track bar. I don't see the point in going to a 4 link w/panhard for a pavement pounder, unless you're wanting to hit the autocross track (which I would not recommend doing in a lifted truck, people laugh at you). If you're actually intending to wheel this thing, then I apologize. But you didn't mention intending to do a 4wd swap, or building it as a pre-runner.

The yellow box is the cruise control module thinger. That push button switch is quite possibly related, or maybe not. I've never owned one with cruise control.

I don't know how well those spacers for the bar pins will hold up long term... Trick to getting the bar pins out, wrap the shock in tape, put some grease in the bushing (just to absorb heat) and slice one side of the bar pin off with a zip cut. Just don't cut the bushing or anything else you care about.

Really? Hmm. I don't think mine did... That was a long time ago though.

What's the nifty thing to do with these as far as moving or storing them? I have an overhead hoist so I *should* be able to take it off easily by myself (might have to install some eyes into the top of it). But I'm not sure what to do with it after then. Moving dollies into the back yard? It would have to go through the man door... Just toss it on some blocks to store it? I wrecked my back pretty good some time ago, so I try to avoid brute force to lift or move things. Otherwise I wind up lying on the floor for a couple days.

Nope. Take the whole thing out. The rest of it is riveted together.

Tomorrow is the plan. Unless I clean up my scrap/tires/yard instead. The POS Ford is gone, and hopefully he sells it so I don't ever get talked into working on it again.

I wouldn't buy a kit.

The extra plugs are for features that aren't installed. They used common chassis and engine harnesses to save money/headaches on assembly. If you have a FSM it's fairly easy to figure out what they're for. As a FYI on the wheel hub/brake issue, there's a couple different generations of hubs and brakes (and knuckles). Somebody bought the wrong parts or got them from a junkyard.

So, it still does it once you drive it for a while. There's a POS Ford in my shop that needs to get finished up, then I will pull the trans out of this thing.

Umm, yeah, wish I knew that before. I thought it wasn't going to be a big deal until I laid out where it was sorta supposed to go... :doh: