DirtyComanche

I think it is just the conformal coating that was giving the illusion that they're bulged. I think I'll clean the corrosion off it and seal it back up (I think I've got some stuff at work for that) and see if it still chooches. I'm tempted to actually put a drain hole in the case at the same time, the connector is in absolutely no way waterproof (or even water resistant), so if moisture can get in it's better to give it an easy way out. Maybe. I got the "new" (random junkyard spare I had) ECM to play nicely by reindexing the distributor... And figuring out that the fuel pump is on its way out.

Like I said, it's pretty typical 80s PCB. Big traces. You can see corrosion on the back side. I thought the caps were swollen but it might be the conformal coating. I think it's been wet before based on the amount of corrosion in the case. Anyway, I ordered that Cardone one to cover my butt. No luck on the yards here having one. I don't know if the one I swapped in is screwed, or if something else went wrong. I guess I could clean this ECM and put it back in too. It bucks bad sometimes when hot, part or full throttle. TPS is adjusted right, and seems to be fine through the full sweep. I'm going to throw new plugs in it and see if I have a cap and rotor (I should), wires are new. If I have a spare cap I'll check the indexing of it, didn't do it before because everything ran fine and I didn't have an old cap to cut up. If that doesn't help I'll throw a new O2 sensor in it and then try reseating the CPS or swap it out. CTS and IAT are both reading correctly.

I'll grab a couple later. It's your typical 80s PCB though, so lots of meat to solder too.

Has anyone bought any of the remanufactured ECMs for the Renix? IE: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=26928&cc=1179996&pt=2896&jsn=11503 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=322131&cc=1179996&pt=2896 I got my ECM rather wet, and wound up pulling it apart to try to get it dry. The capacitors look pretty swollen, but not leaking, and there's some existing corrosion on the board along with some failure of the lacquer or conformal coating they put on it. I'm not sure if the ECM will function after I dry it out either, but it might, it was still somewhat working before I realized it was full of water. Either way, I'd like to find another spare. Anyone bought one and had success with it? Has anyone changed the caps in their own? Curious if it might improve how things run.

Tons of half ton Dodges will have aftermarket wheels on them with the massive hub bore that will work. 16" isn't as common as 17", but they're out there. I was going to machine the center out on a set of factory Dodge wheels for my MJ but found a set of brand spanking new in box aftermarket wheels for not much money and went that route. Edit, the Ford axles are lug centric. The hub bore doesn't matter as long as it goes over the front hub. A guy could just hog a set of factory Dodge wheels over with a die grinder if he wanted.

The FSJ part or the RuffStuff part?

Off to ask the FSJ crowd because I want to know if I have a brain tumor or not.

Not those. Those go on the drag link end at the tie rod/drag link interface. The ones from the OEM, assuming I'm not suffering from the Mandela effect, went between the tie rod ends and the steering knuckle and stopped the tie rod from being able to roll. They aren't an insert inside the tie rod either, but rather a bushing that just got sandwiched outside of the grease boot. Or so I recall it, but our memories aren't real soooo...

Some of the full size jeeps used an elastomeric bushing under the tie rod ends to prevent the tie rod from rolling as much. It used to be something guys used to help make the inverted-T steering more responsive. Does anyone remember what the P/N was? I believe it was a dealer only part too.

Also, this sensor is normally called an IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. You will get more results with that. MAT will get search corrected to MAP normally, which is a very different sensor.

Yeah, they're one of the most simple sensors, along with the CTS. Pretty reliable, it's just a thermistor, and it's not being used to limit current, short of mechanical damage or being massively overheated they should just keep doing what they do. The P/Ns I dredged up a few years ago should work with anything that crosses to them, and I believe the AC-Delco (not GM) 213-190 is that P/N. Most of these types of sensors have the same temperature/resistance coefficient as it's a product of the materials used to make them, which is a very standard composition. See this thread:

The advantage of the two keys was you could go outside and start it in the winter, but still be able to lock the door (and get back in later). Personally I preferred the worn out ignition cylinder for that, just start it and remove the key. That way you weren't messing around with keys on carabiners or anything. Anyway, the key thing is a fight on an early XJ. The lock cylinder for the tailgate is NLA the last I looked, and good luck getting the parts to rekey them.

It's a bit of a crappy situation. The 91+ cluster swaps over, which gives you the electric speedo, but you can't put the 84-90 fuel gauge in it. I think Hornbrod spent a bunch of time messing with this, but maybe it was someone else, but they did manage to glue/splice the different year range fuel gauges in by cutting out a large chunk of the cluster and putting a piece from a donor cluster in. So without that you're stuck swapping your fuel sending unit too, which I think is a really hard find. MTS may start making them, or may have made a few? Also, the cluster size is actually quite small, so most of the "normal" sized aftermarket gauges won't fit in it nicely. It's something I haven't solved because I'm wanting to run a diesel/universal tach and a 97+ fuel gauge in a cluster that looks good. So far I have no great ideas.

I think you're better getting a known good harness. Somebody will have one for sale, or maybe pull one from a yard for you if you pay enough. You could pull the harness you have and look it over the on the bench/repair it, but please don't be offended by this, from your post I suspect you wouldn't have a good time doing this. I'm curious what caused everything to go wrong to start with, you might want to try to figure that out so you don't have a repeat. Manual transmission leaking brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder? Ground issues? The headlights are known to burn up the dimmer switch and lots of people put relay harnesses in for this reason. You should probably post up the pictures so we can see if there's anything obvious that might have lead to this.

How did you press the new bearing on?

Hmm. I'll have to open it up. I'm guessing it's stuck, or not there. This is an XJ problem I'm having, of course I asked here since the tech knowledge is way better than any of the other places. It dumped out the front once and the rear twice now, so I'd like to solve it from doing from either end. Guess I'll add them to the list of things to snag from the boneyard too. Thanks Cruiser!

My XJ doesn't have one, that's all.

Where was it installed? By the reservoir? I see early Cherokees use the same pump front and rear, later ones have two different part numbers, so perhaps integrated in the pump?

So I'm having problems that when I'm extremely off camber that my wiper fluid siphons out of the reservoir. Or maybe it's not really even siphoning, it's just running out because the nozzle is lower than the reservoir. Did later pumps have anything to prevent this? Or is there valves that could be installed that will prevent it? Or is this problem unique to me because I am using a product in a manner it was never intended? It's annoying because I lost all of my wiper fluid the last time I was out, and it would have been nice to have some.

I decided to buy a Euro inspired head unit because reasons. It uses a different antenna connect. Metra 40 I believe is what it is called. So, what's the MJ/XJ connector? GM 10 was one suggestion I heard.

Really sorry to hear it. I'm admittedly not a dog guy, but the lab/retriever crosses I've run into have always been super friendly, energetic and very personable dogs. Definitely easy to get attached to. You gave him a good loving home, and some great years, cherish that and remember him for being a great companion.

I'd figured that out when I checked the links. I think I meant to put a link to a different spring when I made the post, hence my comment that one of the links was wrong. That was 4 years ago though, so, eh, I ain't perfect. My advice is worth exactly what people pay for it, sometimes less.

Links still work for me, although one of them is actually wrong. ZJ springs are Moog P/N CC782. Control arms are MOOG RK640773 and MEVOTECH CMS20425.

Nothing currently I don't think, because I haven't been looking. But www.diyelectriccar.com often has stuff come up for sale in their classifieds. EVWest sometimes will sell things like that too. And you can watch for them with the wreckers using whatever for that (carpart.com I think is a big one).

Direct mounting the motor to the tcase is difficult for use in a truck, as a truck. Most of the motors don't have a great efficiency curve for it and want to run at too high of RPM, at least of the AC motors. DC tend to prefer the lower RPMs, but won't have the jam to be useful in a truck without gear reduction, and then don't make enough top end to run highway speeds if you run the tcase in low range. Guys do it, but the results are meh. Plus DC is only good if you're really trying to do a cheap build, as you can't use it for regen/engine braking. Keeping the transmission, even if you only ever use 2 or 3 gears, seems to just work out a lot better with most of the motors on the market. A smaller/lighter 3spd tranny from an older jeep/truck might be ideal, but I didn't do any numbers on it. You're kinda stuck in you don't want to have a clutch, but you do sort of need one to shift because the rotating mass of the motor is really hard on synchros without one. It's been done both ways, but nothing seems ideal. Finding high enough gears for your axles is what limits turning the Tesla drive units sideways and using them that way. If it's a crawler it works fine, but way too low for street use. Lots of smaller buggies were built using FWD car engine/transaxle sets configured that way. You can pull the Tesla drive units apart and use the motors/inverter without the rest of it, but I've not seen any that were done to a standard that was capable of being suitable for daily use. Honestly if the Tesla drive units had multiple gears they probably would be a bunch more efficient, and I'm curious what they will do in the "Cybertruck" POS they're going to maybe start delivering in 2130. Really it's a case of just waiting to see what government subsidies develop and using whatever works and becomes cheap.