DirtyComanche

You could, but I wouldn't. If it's coming loose either the bolts weren't tight enough, are compromised, or the metal of the bracket or frame is moving around too much. I'd take it off and make sure nothing is cracked, put new 10.9 metric bolts in, and torque it up proper. If it still came loose I'd go to a heavier duty aftermarket version.

That needs a rear engine and transaxle setup to make it 4wd (and twin engine). Or another Tornado front half stuck in the rear so you can have 4 wheel steering too.

There was debate about the stock vs non-stock tech. I think the conclusion was that nobody was going to post in the right section anyways, so why bother? Plus if you make too many subs, nobody reads all of them. I'd probably never read stock tech if there was a specific sub for it, I just don't care enough.

I don't really want to argue about it, but the "LS Swap" (which rarely is actually swapping just another 350 Chebby, since most people use the 5.3 or the 6.0 variants rather than the original 5.7L LS1, and either way none of these engines have much in common with the standard 350 Chebby, and there is several generations of these engines themselves with different caveats regarding installing and tuning them) is anywhere near as common in the XJ/MJ chassis or as easy as you would like to imply. And, of most of the ones done, they could probably have either been done better or cheaper, or a combination thereof. Most people who order up the Novak package of crap wind up with less than awesome results and they wind up paying way too much for it. Some of the things tried from the total DIY aspect have worked less than perfect too. And there's a ton of bad info out there, which I certainly was fed a ton of when I started researching it (such as being told by many MANY people that I wouldn't need a VSS since I was running a NV4500).

I'm thinking he meant get the front D30 and the 8.25 out of the same donor....????????????

I think some of it is okay. I have an Artex-Wells (or whatever it is) temp sender and a few other odds and sods. It's all stuff that may or may not work.

Why? They built a lot of ignition crap in the 70s and 80s. No personal opinion, other than "carry a spare in the glovebox" was a common comment regarding their TFI? components for Fords.

Should be no issues. The gears are commonly available, looks like Yukon, USA Standard, Dana (under their SVL line), and G2 sell them at the very least. One thing to note about the 8.25 is the later ones quite often were limited slip differentials, which is an upgrade from a standard open diff but prevents the installation of a lunchbox locker later.

I'm assuming you mean regear the front axle you have and swap a later 8.25 in the rear and regear it? I'd say sure. Personally I think 35s are at the limits of what the D30 front can handle and wouldn't do it, but with the lower output 2.5L and less throttle jockeying I doubt you could ever break the D30. Many people run 35-37" tires on a D30 and manage to not break things very often if at all. Also, going to a different front axle is quite expensive and involving, and only something to do if you really need to, and I don't think you're in that boat. It might be worth it to pick up a junkyard newer D30 (just don't get a low pinion one) to regear, as doing gears is a complicated process and far more fun with the axle on the bench. You could also do a full rebuild on it at that point (new ball joints, u-joints, UCA bushings, wheel bearings, newer XJ/ZJ steering parts, etc), and the newer axles take more common brake parts and have better axle shafts/u-joints and knuckles. Then just throw it in when you do the lift, as you'll have the entire front axle unbolted at some point when installing any decent lift in that height range. Another thing to consider is you might want to get a "flipsert" or have the TRE hole in the driver's knuckle welded up and tapered from the other side, it's a fairly simple mod but it does correct the steering geometry reasonably without going full bore and ordering a completely aftermarket steering system.

In a warmer climate GL4 should be fine. If it doesn't have the drop trans crossmember for the AX-15 it's no big deal. I don't have one in mine. Slider rear windows are available from the aftermarket, and I believe they fit fairly well from all reports. Try to get the one piece window out without breaking it, somebody will want it. Nice looking truck. Take good care of her, there isn't a lot of nice ones left.

Any traffic is good traffic. And yes, lots of them are bots/spiders/indexers/whatever you want to call them.

If you're going to 35s I would recommend looking at an upgraded rear axle if you don't happen to have an AMC 20 or D44 in there from the factory. The later XJ Chrysler 8.25, Ford Explorer 8.8, and MJ/XJ/TJ D44 are the most common options. There is no sense spending money regearing a D35, nor changing the spring perches on it for a SOA lift. Attached is a gear ratio chart to visualize how different a ratio and tire size change will be. Yes, it will be effectively geared similar (slightly higher) to stock by going to 4.88s vs the 4.10s, and this may be fine, or you may find that the truck is a bit of a dog due to the increased rotating mass and the slightly higher gearing.

This absolutely is a niche forum. Probably half the random guest traffic it gets is from people with Renix XJs Googling running issues and being directed here because there is per capita far more Renix MJs than XJs, and thus many more of the threads are about them, compared with an XJ tailored site like NAXJA or Cherokeetalk. Limiting guest access to reading the forum will not be a good thing long term, as it limits search engines from indexing it and directing people here. If I owned a MJ and was looking for something specific like fitting seats out of a Ford Explorer, (I have no idea if that would work, but whatever) because my 99% stock non-project truck has a bad seat and the junkyard doesn't even know what a Comanche is, so I Google "Explorer seat swap Jeep Comanche" and since whatever subforum has the one post about doing this not open to guest access instead Google will return a bunch of Explorer websites, some random unrelated Jeep sites, and a site about early explorers attempting to gain a seat on the tribal council of the Comanche people (or something like that), and maybe one irrelevant thread from here about somebody buying an Explorer (or axle) that just by reading the search engine preview is obviously irrelevant. This person then never learns of this place, and never reads any of the rest of it, and winds up turning the truck in for scrap money because the seat was so uncomfortable (extreme example, but it does happen). I'm on a local (BC/Western Canada wide) forum for rockcrawling/more hardcore wheeling, and the only subforum visible to guests is the introduction/begging for access subforum. Thus Google has indexed none of the relevant content of the forum, and nobody is directed there unless they search for the very specific name of the site or are told about it by somebody else. Membership has basically died, despite the fact it has some older tech content that would rival a lot of larger sites AND it even was one of the larger sites at one point in time. Plus you have to use the useless native search engine when looking for old content, so a lot of the tech is much harder to find... Modern social media is largely centered around instant gratification and content being pushed on you instead of having to dig for it. Adding any layers to digging for it, such as forcing somebody to sign up, will easily turn them away and back to Facebook/Instagram/Youtube where all of the content can be viewed without creating a unique username/password, and content relevant (or close) to what they previously have looked at will automatically be pushed to them. With a forum in this day and age all you can hope is that there is enough interesting content being indexed by search engines, or linked to through other social media, that enough people pass through and find it interesting/well laid out/friendly that SOME of them actually sign up and SOME of them actually start to contribute from that point. That's just my opinion, but I'm a member of enough forums that are struggling or dying that I've seen a lot of things that I think are mistakes.

Is the original question of swapping an LS engine in on par with asking what axles a stock Jeep has? Number of Jeeps here with one or more stock axles >95%. Number with LS engines <1%. And I am posting this calmly.

Getting an inch or so out of shackles isn't a big deal. And if you only need that much it is the easiest thing to do. Personally I'd probably add a leaf from a S10 (or similar) though because I find the stock MJ springs are a little softer than ideal. Where is it actually rubbing? You never answered, but I'm assuming it's the rear lower part of the front fender? You might be able to fix that somewhat with adjustable control arms or shims.

Year? Did it just start doing this, or did you acquire it this way, or did it happen after doing some maintenance task?

I debated between the LSx and the TDI. The TDI doesn't seem like a terribly expensive swap and probably would work nicely for a MJ with smaller tires, puttering around town, mild wheeling, etc. I don't believe they're reliable if you try to get a lot of power out of them, I'm sure people will refute that but I do not believe they are anywhere near as overbuilt as commercial diesel engines are. There's a lot of different generations with their own unique quirks, so it's a lengthy topic regarding the pros/cons of each and what all is needed to make each swap work. Adapters are available to go to various transmissions, including the AX-15 and AW4 (you will likely have to manually control the AW4). Motor mount kits are also out there to go into the XJ/MJ chassis, which may work depending on which engine exactly you get, along with some other needed small parts. There is tuning software available to make the engine happy after you butcher it out of the car, assuming you go with a newer generation one rather than an older mechanical injected one. I decided against it because most of the TDI donors I looked at were either of the wrong generation, too much money, or the engine itself was iffy. I also hate driving diesels in the winter, done way too many years of that, the TDI makes very little waste heat which is a bonus from the aspect of the cooling system, but sucks if you want to be warm when you're driving it. The lack of power output was another issue, as I wanted to put it in my LWB with some 1-tons and things, so it was going to be heavy. That said, it's not off the table that I won't do this at some point, but currently I'm swimming in LSx parts for my Gladiator so it makes it easier to go that route. The LSx is not necessarily the easiest engine to swap into things, but the aftermarket does support swapping it into pretty much everything. I've also had lots of personal experience with the 4.8/5.3 truck engines in their natural habitat, and I think they're hands down better than the comparable Dodge/Ford/Toyota V8s, and that there is almost zero comparison in quality between them and an earlier V8 with the 4.8/5.3 easily being able to last half a million miles with minimal maintenance while getting excellent fuel economy. The other great thing about GM engines is they're a GM engine, so you can bolt excellent GM patterned transmissions to them, without wasting money on adapters to go to some less than ideal Jeep transmission. I was going to use a NV4500, which is a truck transmission by nature, but would do exactly what I wanted being that it's brute strength with a bull low and overdrive. The NV3500 is available as a more compact and slightly nicer shifting option, but it does give up much in regards to brute strength (it's basically the same as the Jeep NV3550). The 4L60E, 4L65E, 4L80E, 6L90E, etc all also bolt to them and will play with the ECM so they basically just work (there is some odd things that happen when swapping between generations and whatever, but it's all well documented). The T56 is also natively found behind LSx car engines, and it's a great transmission for the 2wd pavement pounder with double overdrive and very nice shifting. Tuning software is readily available, along with places that will do a tune for minimal money, and there is access to a ton of parameters doing this; IE you could speed density tune it if you're just looking to make power with minimal sensors, or on the opposite end of the spectrum you can retain the very conservative stock tunes but just delete the VATS and whatever unneeded emissions controls/etc. The big downside to swapping one in is that it's going to cost a bunch to do it correctly, and it will take a bunch of time. As I mentioned before, getting the hood to clear, the motor mounts correct, the exhaust to fit, etc, can take some figuring. Or you could basically just give Novak your credit card, but I really don't recommend that. Any V8 or high HP swap presents issues regarding the cooling system. Most engines are just not thermally efficient enough to not tax the stock XJ/MJ cooling system when making much more than the original 190~HP. Engines with aluminum heads and blocks do help shed heat, but you can't expect to throw a 300HP engine in and have the factory radiator keep up. Adding more cores/thickness to the radiator helps, but ultimately most of the successful higher HP swaps wind up cutting out the core support and going to a totally different radiator.

Rockauto has a listing for a 93 with regular emissions and no police package for what looks like about $200 US core included. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1993,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1180178,electrical,engine+control+module+(ecm+computer),2896 Not sure if that link from mobile will work.

Seems odd. I would have thought the longest ones would be fitted with optional accessories like the swing out spare tire carrier and the brush guard, which I believe were only in early years.

For the gauges I would probably go to an aftermarket speedo and tach, as I think it would wind up costing a lot of money or headache to make the stockers work. That said, I believe you could probably get the tach working correctly if you spent enough time farting around with it, as the earlier tachs were adjustable between the 4 and 6 cylinder engines, and the LSx type engines put out a standard 8 cylinder tach signal, so there is a chance you could tweak the adjustment to cover that. Failing that, Dakota Digital or somebody else probably sells a signal converter that would work, but it will be a few bucks and is another module to wind up failing. For the speedo I don't know what Novak's kit looks like, but I shudder to think that fitting a mechanical speedo is really a good option in this day and age. The actual speedo output from the ECM might play with the 91/92 HO tach, which will fit in the Renix gauge cluster (or so we proposed in another thread), and I believe the pulse per rev setting can be edited in HPTuners (the VSS setting can for sure). I also question how Novak's speedo drive kit works, and I hope it does not delete the VSS? And you're going to use a 4l60E or...? A 4L65E would be a lot better. Don't get a 4L60. Really for simplicity buying the trans with the engine is probably the best bet for the first go at this as then you already know it will play correctly with the engine and ECM. No idea on HVAC, I don't see why it shouldn't work, but I also don't believe in A/C. You need the heater to be hooked up though, the LS tstat needs a bypass loop. My main concern with keeping the A/C would be getting it to fit with the motor mounting and exhaust, plus getting a condenser core that will fit with whatever radiator you wind up with. Column shift might be a PITA to hook up correctly, but I'm guessing it will work... It's a GM column so I'm sure there is a cable that will work if the one you have doesn't. Or you can have one made. The hood is another matter. Firstly, what engine are you getting? In general, car engines with their low intake and accessories will clear the hood assuming the engine is placed correctly. However, they generally don't clear the steering box. Truck engines with truck accessories and intake will not clear the stock hood, not even close. Lots of guys butcher the hood, or just don't run it, as converting to a car intake and then buying an accessory bracket kit that works takes a fair amount of money and some farting around. I have some accessory drive kits picked out I can share if you want. Electrical is 'easy' with the Renix. Sorta. Not. But basically the Renix already has the ECM and engine harness standalone, so it's fairly easy to pull that part out. You will want to cut down your new engine harness (fairly easy) and put it on it's own little fuse block. Then cut all the other uneeded junk out of the Renix harness and integrate the few things that are needed. Or at least that was how I planned to do it. I could give you more specifics if you want. I've researched this a bunch but I'm not sure where you're at on picking components. Getting the motor mounted correctly, the exhaust to fit, and a cooling system that actually works seems to be the biggest hurdles to me for a 2wd swap.

If you bent the brackets on your 91 HP D30 in the wreck, there is a good chance you bent the tubes or the Cs. I would not trust it. As said, the 00 one is low pinion, personally I would never use one as I have a hatred for low pinion front axles. You could use it though, at least it will have the newer style axle shafts/ujoints and you know it is in good shape. The auto trans changed from Renix to HO to OBD-II, and while it is possible to swap them around I don't know if the outcome will be desirable. Likewise for the tcases the input spline count changed. The Renix AW4 had a 21 spline output, so the tcase used a matching 21 spline input. The later AW4 and tcase is 23 spline. The gear cut in the planetaries (and the input) changed in 95, so you can't swap the inputs around. Hopefully I followed your post correctly on what you were proposing to do, I'm tired.

At that price I ordered one... Why not.

Ditto on the comments about adjusting them and checking the height sensing valve. I'd probably consider disconnecting the valve and zip tying it in the up position (full braking) for the sake of passing the emissions crap. Beyond that you'll have to start changing parts.

You can just bypass it if it actually fails. At least for long enough to get a new one.

That's a Renix. HO has totally different wiring.