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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. Stover. They're kinda the better self locking nut.
  2. I don't know the answer to that either. I've never owned one. But I'm sure a higher trim 4runner or Lexus whatever would have power mirrors.
  3. When I reply using my phone I tend not to proofread to see if what I wrote actually makes a lick of sense. Anyways, somebody should go grab an early 90s Toyota mirror to see if they can fit.
  4. I've always thought he was a colossal idiot but I generally refrain from saying so. Anyways, I think it makes my point that an LS swap is not just that easy.
  5. I dated a girl with a 91 Toyota. She had a set of chrome mirrors on it and promised to give them to me when she found black ones. If you put them side by side XJ mirrors they look like they could be twins, but the Toyota ones are maybe a little bigger. But she was insane, so we broke up before I got the mirrors. I wanted them only for research purposes and I'm not going to go buy a set to see it they fit. So basically I have nothing to contribute. But if you want some rounded new style chrome mirrors, Toyota may be the answer.
  6. I was trying to get a set of early 90s Toyota mirrors to try. They come in chrome. Looks like a very similar shape to the 97+ mirrors and 3 bolt mount. Unfortunately she was crazy and we broke up. I don't feel like paying money for mirrors that likely won't work. Maybe another time.
  7. Wow, somebody wants their AMC Jeep to look like Fiat built it.
  8. See the post above yours.
  9. I'd pull it and braze or solder it for the long term fix. Despite working on things that are glued together for a living, I just hate relying on most epoxies for that sort of application.
  10. You could, but I wouldn't. If it's coming loose either the bolts weren't tight enough, are compromised, or the metal of the bracket or frame is moving around too much. I'd take it off and make sure nothing is cracked, put new 10.9 metric bolts in, and torque it up proper. If it still came loose I'd go to a heavier duty aftermarket version.
  11. That needs a rear engine and transaxle setup to make it 4wd (and twin engine). Or another Tornado front half stuck in the rear so you can have 4 wheel steering too.
  12. There was debate about the stock vs non-stock tech. I think the conclusion was that nobody was going to post in the right section anyways, so why bother? Plus if you make too many subs, nobody reads all of them. I'd probably never read stock tech if there was a specific sub for it, I just don't care enough.
  13. I don't really want to argue about it, but the "LS Swap" (which rarely is actually swapping just another 350 Chebby, since most people use the 5.3 or the 6.0 variants rather than the original 5.7L LS1, and either way none of these engines have much in common with the standard 350 Chebby, and there is several generations of these engines themselves with different caveats regarding installing and tuning them) is anywhere near as common in the XJ/MJ chassis or as easy as you would like to imply. And, of most of the ones done, they could probably have either been done better or cheaper, or a combination thereof. Most people who order up the Novak package of crap wind up with less than awesome results and they wind up paying way too much for it. Some of the things tried from the total DIY aspect have worked less than perfect too. And there's a ton of bad info out there, which I certainly was fed a ton of when I started researching it (such as being told by many MANY people that I wouldn't need a VSS since I was running a NV4500).
  14. I'm thinking he meant get the front D30 and the 8.25 out of the same donor....????????????
  15. I think some of it is okay. I have an Artex-Wells (or whatever it is) temp sender and a few other odds and sods. It's all stuff that may or may not work.
  16. Why? They built a lot of ignition crap in the 70s and 80s. No personal opinion, other than "carry a spare in the glovebox" was a common comment regarding their TFI? components for Fords.
  17. Should be no issues. The gears are commonly available, looks like Yukon, USA Standard, Dana (under their SVL line), and G2 sell them at the very least. One thing to note about the 8.25 is the later ones quite often were limited slip differentials, which is an upgrade from a standard open diff but prevents the installation of a lunchbox locker later.
  18. I'm assuming you mean regear the front axle you have and swap a later 8.25 in the rear and regear it? I'd say sure. Personally I think 35s are at the limits of what the D30 front can handle and wouldn't do it, but with the lower output 2.5L and less throttle jockeying I doubt you could ever break the D30. Many people run 35-37" tires on a D30 and manage to not break things very often if at all. Also, going to a different front axle is quite expensive and involving, and only something to do if you really need to, and I don't think you're in that boat. It might be worth it to pick up a junkyard newer D30 (just don't get a low pinion one) to regear, as doing gears is a complicated process and far more fun with the axle on the bench. You could also do a full rebuild on it at that point (new ball joints, u-joints, UCA bushings, wheel bearings, newer XJ/ZJ steering parts, etc), and the newer axles take more common brake parts and have better axle shafts/u-joints and knuckles. Then just throw it in when you do the lift, as you'll have the entire front axle unbolted at some point when installing any decent lift in that height range. Another thing to consider is you might want to get a "flipsert" or have the TRE hole in the driver's knuckle welded up and tapered from the other side, it's a fairly simple mod but it does correct the steering geometry reasonably without going full bore and ordering a completely aftermarket steering system.
  19. In a warmer climate GL4 should be fine. If it doesn't have the drop trans crossmember for the AX-15 it's no big deal. I don't have one in mine. Slider rear windows are available from the aftermarket, and I believe they fit fairly well from all reports. Try to get the one piece window out without breaking it, somebody will want it. Nice looking truck. Take good care of her, there isn't a lot of nice ones left.
  20. Any traffic is good traffic. And yes, lots of them are bots/spiders/indexers/whatever you want to call them.
  21. If you're going to 35s I would recommend looking at an upgraded rear axle if you don't happen to have an AMC 20 or D44 in there from the factory. The later XJ Chrysler 8.25, Ford Explorer 8.8, and MJ/XJ/TJ D44 are the most common options. There is no sense spending money regearing a D35, nor changing the spring perches on it for a SOA lift. Attached is a gear ratio chart to visualize how different a ratio and tire size change will be. Yes, it will be effectively geared similar (slightly higher) to stock by going to 4.88s vs the 4.10s, and this may be fine, or you may find that the truck is a bit of a dog due to the increased rotating mass and the slightly higher gearing.
  22. This absolutely is a niche forum. Probably half the random guest traffic it gets is from people with Renix XJs Googling running issues and being directed here because there is per capita far more Renix MJs than XJs, and thus many more of the threads are about them, compared with an XJ tailored site like NAXJA or Cherokeetalk. Limiting guest access to reading the forum will not be a good thing long term, as it limits search engines from indexing it and directing people here. If I owned a MJ and was looking for something specific like fitting seats out of a Ford Explorer, (I have no idea if that would work, but whatever) because my 99% stock non-project truck has a bad seat and the junkyard doesn't even know what a Comanche is, so I Google "Explorer seat swap Jeep Comanche" and since whatever subforum has the one post about doing this not open to guest access instead Google will return a bunch of Explorer websites, some random unrelated Jeep sites, and a site about early explorers attempting to gain a seat on the tribal council of the Comanche people (or something like that), and maybe one irrelevant thread from here about somebody buying an Explorer (or axle) that just by reading the search engine preview is obviously irrelevant. This person then never learns of this place, and never reads any of the rest of it, and winds up turning the truck in for scrap money because the seat was so uncomfortable (extreme example, but it does happen). I'm on a local (BC/Western Canada wide) forum for rockcrawling/more hardcore wheeling, and the only subforum visible to guests is the introduction/begging for access subforum. Thus Google has indexed none of the relevant content of the forum, and nobody is directed there unless they search for the very specific name of the site or are told about it by somebody else. Membership has basically died, despite the fact it has some older tech content that would rival a lot of larger sites AND it even was one of the larger sites at one point in time. Plus you have to use the useless native search engine when looking for old content, so a lot of the tech is much harder to find... Modern social media is largely centered around instant gratification and content being pushed on you instead of having to dig for it. Adding any layers to digging for it, such as forcing somebody to sign up, will easily turn them away and back to Facebook/Instagram/Youtube where all of the content can be viewed without creating a unique username/password, and content relevant (or close) to what they previously have looked at will automatically be pushed to them. With a forum in this day and age all you can hope is that there is enough interesting content being indexed by search engines, or linked to through other social media, that enough people pass through and find it interesting/well laid out/friendly that SOME of them actually sign up and SOME of them actually start to contribute from that point. That's just my opinion, but I'm a member of enough forums that are struggling or dying that I've seen a lot of things that I think are mistakes.
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