DirtyComanche

Nice

Pics of the Javelin?

I rented a garage/shop for a while. It actually was part of the reason I finally bit the bullet and bought a house and built a shop. It seemed like everything was going to be okay because I was paying a fair amount for it, the homeowner wasn't around much and I would shovel the driveway/walkways for them, and literally all I did was work in there/leave a truck there. Then they got weird about things like having the heat on (well, eh... You need that here), and whatnot and then I just realized that they didn't get the point of why I was renting it even though I had been clear when I made the arrangement. Renting a commercial space would have been better, but it's too much money to justify from what I've seen. You can mortgage a lot of house with a big shop for what you'll pay to rent a commercial space big enough to be worth it. Ultimately I just put my stuff into storage and bought a house, then built a shop... Which took forever, so in retrospect I think just buying a place that already has a big shop would be the way I would go. Houses like that are common enough here.

Green can be from copper corrosion. My GMC was like that and did some digging, it turned out to be somewhat normal for old fluid in them. I left it alone until I replaced all the calipers. Any hydraulic system will tend to build up some gunk over time. Things wear, corrode, deteriorate, etc and that winds up in the fluid, along with anything introduced when people open the reservoir to check the level or add.

I skimmed the article, and I think they missed one point on the detergents that is a huge factor. Detergents lower the shear strength of the oil (the amount of pressure it can take before being displaced in a bearing). Diesel oils have much lower shear strengths because of this, which is part of why they add so much zinc back into them, but it's also why diesel engines are designed much differently in regards to oiling and bearing sizes. Really good oils won't shear, so there is no wear as the bearing surfaces will never contact, so you don't need much/any zinc. This includes wear at startup before the pump is supplying lubrication. The entire "I put the diesel oil in my gas because it's gooder" trend was started on bad science, they just looked at the zinc numbers and assumed that was all that mattered. At best you're putting an oil in that performs about as well as a cheap gasoline oil, but at a much higher price, at worst you're actually damaging things. Good synthetic GASOLINE oils are the way to go in gas engines. Beyond that it's keep the oil clean (not just free of soot, but of water or gasoline) and keep it cool. Add Camguard or similar if you're that worried about the zinc.

They're the chicken of the trees. Eat them before they eat your stuff.

I wound up putting that Cardone one in. It actually does run better with it versus the 32~ year old one I got out of the junkyard. Idle is smoother, and doesn't idle as low, and just smoother on and off the throttle in general. I'm not going to bother to try the one that was underwater again. But I suspect it is fine too. It's a real PITA to swap them because I have a bunch of extra wiring that's in the way, otherwise I would try it.

I've never seen aluminum wire used in automotive. I wouldn't use it either. It "works" in certain residential/commercial/industrial applications because the corrosion risk is low and all connections are designed to use it, so they're made out of plated metals that will not induce corrosion, plus they use a specific conductive grease with it. Even despite that you should check the torque on aluminum connections regularly... They tend to come loose due to the thermal expansion coefficient.

Pretty certain that was a slider window and they broke it out, or maybe cut/broke it and took whatever panes they needed.

That's why I stopped looking. I didn't want to get any really stupid ideas.

I don't know if there was any Jeep trucks in this... But they're auctioning 1000 trucks, many of them vintage or rare, so I'm guessing there will be at least a few. If I was local (or even remotely close) I'd look through the whole thing. https://www.farmauction.net/auction/nebraska-truck-hoard/

Lots of the Renix stuff is GM, some of it has been slightly modified (pins swapped, slightly different size, different threads, etc).

Harness was probably swapped. Welcome to owning something that's 30+ years old. I'd check your fuel pressure. Do you have a ballast resistor? You shouldn't, sorta, maybe, hard to say if they swapped the harness and put one in or not. I guess there was also a recall to add one. If you have one, bypass it and take it for a boot and see if the issue goes away. If it does, failing fuel pump, plugged filter, or corroding connectors/wiring are the issue. Failing that, get an actual fuel pressure tester. I hear you can borrow/rent them from lots of parts stores.

Maybe. You still want the rotor in the right place or the disty winds up rotated to a potentially undesirable location. In the case of my XJ #1 and #6 plug wire were too short because of what they had done, but you could get it to go together, so I left it alone until other issues forced me to address it. I wish I had simply fixed it when I first got the stupid thing.

Does the trailer have brakes? You have a brake controller? It should be well within tow capacity, make sure it's loaded correctly and you have a proper receiver and hitch, but you should figure out the weight to make sure.

My XJ came that way. Not because they were trying to make anything better, but because they put the distributor so that the #5 post was hooked to #1 spark plug.

It's not fixed if you've cut the locating tab off the distributor.

Is a 20 thou gap what's called for? OP's is wrong for sure though. Off a tooth maybe, or he needs to mod it so he can spin it to the right place.

The o-ring groove probably is spec'd wrong enough to not work part of the time. If they put a plastic/teflon backup ring in there as well then it would be fine, I bet. You might have got away with it by just swelling the o-ring in some diesel/kerosene/naptha first, then installing it with vaseline.

Next question... any idea if you can tell what version of firmware is on these things based on the markings? This chip has a sticker: B0107E. On the on the one that got wet it's B1143F. Serial number? I'd assume whatever version of firmware was flashed to the ROM would have had a sticker or other marker to go with it. It would seem unlikely they would only mark the housing via the part number of the whole assembly. I'm not sure if this ECM is actually an 89/90 like they claimed.

Nippon-Chemicon KMC I believe. I think the black scuzzy stuff was nasty old flux, or something, that they then soaked with whatever they used for conformal coating. I managed to clean it off reasonably with heptane and put lacquer over the areas I cleaned. There was a bunch of fuzz from the Q-Tips that got stuck in it, but eh, that's not a big deal. Man does the forum ever dither that.

The photos are detailed but the forum dithers them pretty hard. I could upload to imgur but eh. I think they dropped the soldering iron, twice. It's like it's burned, but definitely not arc burns. Or it might just be some sort of dirt/crud. I'll try cleaning it when I get to work, then I'll put some lacquer over it. I suspect the trace they bodged was what caused it to fail. Still waiting for a fuel pump, then I'll see which of the three I have works best.

Here's a Cardone "remanufactured" one taken apart. Pretty disappointed with the complete lack of fawks that was subject to. They did change the caps though. I'll take it to work and clean the corrosion off and touch up the coating I guess.

There's no emblems on the hood...

Move. They will take your whole truck instead.