DirtyComanche

That's not a D60. (Neither of them are. The Comanche has a D44 though.)

+1 for correct pronunciation of Willys. Cool Jeep. Wish I could drop the cash to make mine pretty like that.

Spectra is an OEM for GM. People knock them, but they do make (some) decent parts.

You could. NPT adapters on the drain and fill along with an electric pump. But why? Have you hit it with an IR gun or put a temp probe in it and found there was a problem? It's only fairly recent that consumer grade manual transmission trucks have oil coolers, and that's when combined with 400HP diesels that are rated to tow 24Klbs... I'd put a HD transmission in long before considering modding up the AX-15.

That and a HD clutch option (for the AX-15), if they really thought the clutch was the limiting factor.

I think I meant to post this in tech

Did your mechanic do anything with the clutch? I'm assuming he changed the brake master cylinder, not the clutch master cylinder? You can (and basically have to) bleed the clutch with it installed. There's a line with a bleeder screw on it coming out of the bellhousing where the pressure line goes in. The procedure is to top up the master (you can even leave a fresh bottle of brake fluid upside down in it, just make sure it doesn't spill), then with a helper have them crack the bleed screw AS the clutch pedal is depressed, closing it when the pedal reaches the floor. No, I have no idea why a clutch is bled that way, although I've had good luck doing it the incorrect way like one would bleed brakes (push pedal down, jam it in place, scoot under truck and crack the bleed screw, close it after the fluid squirts out). Another thing to check is that the bushings in the clutch pedal are tight, and that the carpet and underlay isn't stopping you from getting full pedal travel. You really do need nearly full travel to disengage the clutch on these trucks.

I believe there's video of it being dyno'd, or the engine out of it at least.

So we all know that the factory felt the AW4 could handle a greater towing capacity than the AX-15, but does this actually hold true in the real world? Has anyone had a clutch or other AX-15 failure while towing, or while driving around with the truck loaded up heavy? I don't care about the other aspects of this. I personally feel that the AX-15 has no reason to not be able to tow/haul the same as the AW4, meaning that you could reliably tow more than was safe due to other limitations.

Mine isn't useful info, I don't think? I have a SYE.

Yes, that's how fast the needle on the fuel gauge drops.

I forgot about this option.

If you still have the factory overloads it won't make any difference, but I'd still order from either of those guys.

Is acid dye safe for a seat belt anyways?

Honestly, there's so much WTF about this that I'd say pull the valve cover off and look at the rockers... Make sure they're all moving, and use that to verify it is on #1 compression.

That thing looks mint. If it was mine I'd be swapping an engine in it right meow.

I had to pull it apart and look at the wires. I think I actually compared it with my spare harness that was marked in the end... You can only get it so wrong though, and I'd think unless they had every pair of them wrong that you would still get it to at least sorta fire, especially if you're dribbling some gas down the TB. Does it puff black smoke or anything when trying to start it?

That would certainly cause problems.

Any ideas what was done with the engine? Is this just a junkyard engine that was stuffed in? Or is there any evidence it was opened up at some point?

He said it didn't. It's fairly clear that it's most likely a spark issue. Either at the wrong time or too weak. Edit, said it didn't run with fuel dribbled down the TB. Technically that's not ether, but I don't use ether myself...

It's actually incredibly easy to put the injector harness on wrong. No, I've not done it, but I've dealt with trying to troubleshoot it.

Will it run on starting fuel or with gas dribbled down the TB? Rule out if it's ignition or fuel. Injector harness could be on wrong, which sucks. But I'd say more likely the disty is indexed wrong.

You get what you pay for with them. I bet if they jigged it correctly they could knock out near perfect reproductions that could retail for $400~. The headers you see on eBay for $74 don't have much hope, you just can't do it for that cheap, especially since the eBay retailer still has a profit margin on that (probably only $7-14 dollars, but still, you can't build that with any degree of accuracy for $60). The Chinese have been making all sorts of fake stuff that you would never know wasn't, aircraft parts are among that...

Somebody with a good unit to clone and a few bucks could make some money getting the barefoot Chinese children to copy them in 304 SS.

Cheap pads will do that. It's amazing how soft they are and how fast they will wear. Assuming the pistons aren't sticking and the caliper guides aren't worn, like Eagle says. Another rare issue is the pushrod in the booster being wrong, resulting in the brakes dragging all the time. Or you could have something stopping the pedal from fully returning.