DirtyComanche

You're right, Lincoln locking is welding the spiders. A full spool is the correct method of welding a diff, it eliminates the spiders all together by replacing your carrier. A mini-spool goes inside the stock carrier, it's just a cheaper alternative to a full spool. Realistically, it's quite hard to actually break a welded/min-spooled diff, but if you actually do break the carrier you go to a spool.

Not everybody likes buying tires every 3 months :P

Grind off the head and vice grips. I ground mine, only to find all the clips on the inside broken anyways. Then I threw out my bed. So, there might be a moral there.

Mine hopped like a bish, especially in reverse. Until I 'bought' my free cooper tires, which would just go up in a cloud of smoke.

GM 2.8L V6 - 115 hp @ 4800 rpm, 145 ft lb @ 2400 rpm

Go to a junkyard and pull one. It's a pain, but I saved about $200.

*Whacking head* Duh, that's why the pictures all look reallllllly framiliar. Well, anyways, there is a list. I guess I should have been more clear. It's more like a I hate their formatting. It's not really concise, nor is it really detailed. I just found it annoying. A single pic of all the components laid out makes life easier if you're skimming an ad.

Realistically, you can expect about 2" from this. But, ya never know, try it and see. Rusty's makes a AAL, I think. It'll suck.

On the topic of the whole SYE/Driveline thing. BrettM (doesn't bother to post here) has somewhere around 7" of lift, and no SYE. Well, it was like that. Yes, he drove it on the street. But, my point is, if you set your pinon angle correctly you can make it work without spending the coin on an SYE. The driveshaft angle I believe will be shallower than a stock wrangler driveshaft, with 5-6" of lift. Although, if you break tcase output shafts; then it's time to get one or a new/better tcase. I just figured I'd throw it out there, might save some coin. If it doesn't work then you get the SYE and the double cardon driveshaft. Worst that'll happen is it'll vibe like a mother and break at an inconvenient time. I, having listened to cherokee boys the whole time, got a SYE/Tom Woods before even trying.

Well, after some looking I think it's the late 80's to early 90's volvo 740 and 760. The axle is a custom peice, but uses a D30 pumpkin. Thus, the carrier can be pulled and used in the front D30. You might have to modify your axleshafts slightly (that sounds ominous) although the spline count is the same, at 27. I'm pretty sure they just meant grind a bit off the end of the splines for the 'modifying' thing. That's all I got for you, for now.

I'm not partial. They made the website (and the ebay ads) the most annoying thing in the world to read. A detailed list of what you actually get would be nice. The rear bolt on SOA looks like it would work though. And they have brackets to keep your brake porp. valve linkage, which I guess would be a plus for people who don't want to f' with that. Only $109 for the rear setup alone. Edit, Looking at the pics, the front wheels appear to be "sucked back" as is often the case when you lift with stock control arms. It might just be the angle, though.

Very interesting......got any more info on that? I'd imagine that a LSD in a D30 (disco) wouldn't see as much stress as it does in the rear. Might last pretty good, and be a cheap traction aid :?: Jeff I'll look, I might have the list of suitable donor cars somewhere. It's more trivia than useful information though, as for the price of having the gears setup you might as well get a real LSD/locker. If you can do your own gears, well, great.

There was rare factory 2.5/AW4 combos that had 4.56 gears, I think. Sadly, no D44 was avaliable. However, you can use one of them as a cheap donor for a front axle/tcase/tranny and get a decent rear and regear it.

Well, that's the current plan. I almost managed to get steel today, but I got sidetracked and wound up cussing out my friend's snowmobile. I think I'm going to have to do some reading on 60's snowmobile carbs. But I'm not worried about the truck not working now.

No progress! Okay, I've done some things. Nothing worth reporting really. A lot of thinking and reading though. I went out and bought a Lincoln AC-225 stick welder, and haven't found the time to run 220 to my garage. I think maybe I'll call a professional on that one. I'm caught between school and part time jobs right now. That and I go out of town every weekend too. I've just been having trouble finding time for the truck. Not to mention it's bloody cold! Oh, and my DD got the front end pushed in... It's on 35s though. 37s would be really asking for it! The D30 definatly wouldn't like that, I don't think. Anyways, I hope to start work on it again by the end of the week. I'm going to find some time to run out to my favorite machine shop and pick up some steel. That and a bunch more zip disks so I can cut all the remaining offending metal off my truck.

I've never heard of the factory Dana/Spicer trac-loc (or w/e the heck they call it) being put in the D30 front. However, there's certain cars that can be had in the junkyard quite easily, which came with D30 rears, and just happen to have a Dana/Spicer (factory) LSD. With a little effort it can be popped out and thrown in the front D30. These LSDs suck though. Something like a 85/15 power split, if even that. Also, they need to be rebuilt fairly often to really work at all. Although, that's better than the old one tire on each end spinning madly, while the other two just sit there.

Hi :!: I'm a resident post-lady of the night. You'll probably see my opinon popping up without any facts to back it up. :P Nice Jeep.

Trutracs have been around since the 80's. Supposedly they provide about a 60/40 split for power, while a true locker would be 50/50. But they don't have any noticeable lash or engagement. I sold myself on getting one because I felt it would be more streetable. Also, I like to think it'll help my front axle live longer, as there's less shock loading with it. Looking back, that's a really stupid concept. It'll never be streetable at the rate I'm going. :roll: I'm not a fan of lock-wrongs, but meh, they offer a lot of bang for the buck. I'm not convinced they'd be really nice in snow/ice or being used in a true DD.

What type of LSD? Anyways, with a locker as long as your driveshaft is balanced it'll be nicely streetable in 2wd. I'd recommend spending the dough and getting a Detroit. Or on a side note, perhaps a trutrac would work for you? I have one, not sure how it works, still in its box :D

I'd not use the longer shackles if you haul crap. Well, you could, but... Find a nice donor leaf pack, another MJ would be best. Just make sure it has enough arch and enough length. Take out the main leaf, cut the eyes and shackles off. Insert under your main leaf, reassemble your pack, and enjoy. It'll give you some lift (haven't a clue how much) but it'll stiffen your springs up a bit, which is a good idea regardless. It'll also help prevent hosing your springs if you back up a rock or something... But if you like shackles, buy shackles! It's your truck.

I've always wanted a CJ-10. Unfotrunatly, the sold like 300 in Canada. I don't think I'll be finding one anytime soon. And that kit thing is way to expensive. Just break out the sawzall and the sledgehammer.

At the very least you'll need shafts with the 297X Ujoints. Even then, you're on borrowed time IMHO. You can get a 'super 30' kit or just get custom chromoly shafts, but then you've actually made your weak point the R&P. And DON'T DRAG/PULL ANYTHING IN REVERSE! The R&P is even weaker in reverse on the HPD30. Oh, and truss the SOB, and reinforce the link towers. Otherwise you're gonna have some fun. However, it will work, and hold up to non-harcore wheeling. I'd just plan to carry lots of spare shafts.

That depends how much you love your sawzall.

One's a cherokee and the other's a comanche...

You won't need a rear end, just a rear driveshaft as the one you've got will be about 10" too long. Although, if you have a D35 rear end, I'd say "Hey, might as well get rid of it aswell." But that depends on what you're going to do with it. Which leads me to asking, what are your plans? A small lift, 31" tires at most? Leave it mostly stock? Or try to throw 40" tires under it? The full time/part time Np242 will bolt up to an AX-15. I think certain cherokees would come with the AX-15 already mated too one, again to save money and headaches. The spline counts on the transmission outputs and inputs did change every now and again; I could get you a conclusive list if you feel you'll need it. One thing to be aware with it is that it is slightly weaker than a NP231 (part time only tcase) in stock form, but doesn't have much in the way of upgrade options. A SYE for a 242 does not replace the main output shaft, which seems to be a point prone to failure on the 231. Wether the 242's output shaft is as weak, I don't know; as I've never torn one apart. NV3500 came in 00-01 cherokees. It probably comes in a bunch of other vehicles too. It's stronger than a AX-15 and synchronized in reverse. It'll cost a pretty penny though. I'll also point out that there's a certain point where you have to debate keeping your current 'manche. Buying one that is already 4wd would save headaches and money if you're going to just keep it stock or very mild. The next best option is to buy a whole cherokee that has the options you want as a donor. I'm pretty sure you could get a 87-88 Cherokee with a 4.0/AX-15/NP242/D44 and non-vacuum disconnect HPD30. It's be slightly rare, but there's lots of cherokees out there, and it would be the best bet for a parts donor. Edit, I really want to have somebody make a good writeup for the 2wd - 4wd swap, as it comes up quite a lot and would probably be clearer than my long, rambling and disjointed posts. Then we could have a tech sticky!