DirtyComanche

Nah, I can do it for $8. I've got enough plate lying around, I think. Even if I have to get more, it won't be much (scrap, free or close to). The pipe I have. I've got about 40Lbs of rod lying around, and even then I'm not going to use very much for such a thing. I've got the drill bits, taps, dies, etc coming out of my @$$. Only thing I'd actually likely need to buy is bolts, which guessing on their length and grade will run me about $6. Okay, so maybe I won't make it in under $8, but I will make it in under the $60. And my time is worth nothing. I'm unemployed again. So it's work on the truck or go get drunk.

The MORE one is a peice of tube with a clamp on the end? What size tires were you running? I've got 35's, and I'm a little worried after I watched the unibody 'bend' when I had LT235/75/R15s on it and got kinda bound up between a stump and a rock...

Where I live, there is no "buying one". Well, I could, but shipping will generally cost as much as the part. And when it is something simple, I can make it myself. If I was to copy the C-Rok brace, it would cost me about $8 Cnd. all said and done. It retails for $60~ US. (The c-rok brace is jsut a peice of plate that bolts to the outside of the unibody, basically. I also think it is too weak. I think they also sell a weld in one, for god knows how much) Oh, I like welding things in. If I ever have to remove it, I have an angle grinder. Edit: It's JKS that makes the weld in brace. $149.00 US for both sides.

So, who's running what? Anybody build their own? Pics? Since I'm a cheap bastard; I think I will take 2 peices of .250 plate and drill half a dozen rosettes in each, plus the three holes for the steering box. Then hole saw out the original mounting holes in the unibody (not looking foreward to that) and put some pipe in as a sleeve. Assumably the sleeves should be welded to the unibody, then the plate welded to the unibody. But the sleeves should not be welded to the plate? (I can't think of how I would do that, either way) Should this work well enough? Or do you think I could fit some channel or box (with the top cut off) over the unibody, instead of plate? Mm, maybe I should go look.

He's got somewhat longer lower CAs. But yeah, not ideal. I'll point out I've seen 5.5"~ on stock uppers and lowers. Not gonna comment on how well it worked.

Harsh, that MJ was pure sex.

They fear change.

I guess I'm not the farthest from the badlands out of everyone on this board. I still don't think I want to make the drive though. Blah. It'd be cool to be around a bunch of non-stock 'manches.

Greasable shackles have a grease fitting (zerk) so that you can grease the bushings. The stock (or normal) shackles don't. I think it's a feel good feature, but not really that useful. Oh, get some full-size chevy 2" drop shackles, they will give you two inches of lift to match the front. As long as they look beefy, they'll hold. And to install the rear shackles, you'll need: Breaker bar (Or wrench and a long peice of pipe) 21mm socket/wrench Propane torch (optional, heat helps get the bolts out) Bottle jack (To force the spring down to fit the shackle back in place) PB blaster/liquid wrench Lock-tite It's pretty straight forward, just do one side at a time. Somebody else might give you more details. I'm too lazy.

Umm, it'll still work regardless of position. The linkage on mine fell off some years ago (before I bought it) and the rear brakes worked fine.

How about something for the guys without beds. You know you want to.... (Yes, I full on expect that you wouldn't cater to the two or three board members without beds.)

Well, the funny thing is they already were... Ohwell. Nothing a sledgehammer and some cussing won't fix.

That worked well. Only issue was that I then backed it out of the garage without brakes, but forgot to close my door... Yeah, so, umm, doorless until I fix the hinge pins. (Yes, I am just reaffirming my previous statement that I am an idiot.)

That's a vacuum issue. Have fun.

I'm leaning towards the silver. The OD is kinda puky.

Apparently they're 'close enough' that with a fair amount of swearing, it will bolt up. Not ideal for your springs or anything else. But I've never bothered to measure to confirm this.

I won't speak for him; but it looks like a 3/4 eliptical setup. I contemplaited one. Then got lazy.

I was thinking the other type... Damn, I'm an idiot. Well, let's see if I have any of those here. I have a sinking feeling they're all 150Km away at our cabin...

Maybe... The problem is it's a cyclindrical sleeve. It'll just slip. I think. That's why I was going to weld the flat bar on it. I really don't want to waste my nickel rod. I have trouble getting it.

Or a couple peice of box tubing (say 2x2x.250) and an angle grinder will make them for well, very little.

But if he has a sledgehammer, sawzall, or angle grinder, it would soon become a 'non-issue'.

I'll give him a try. Hmm, next problem... Any good way to turn the adjusting sleeve on the stock drag link? I need to turn mine about 20 times, I've managed to get it around about once using pliers. I then thought I'd make things easy and weld some flat bar onto it so I could turn it with a regular old wrech. Turns out it's cast. I'm not wasting my nickel rod on that. I guess I could buy the proper tool? (Whatever that is)

Well. it's pretty simple. I've got stainless front lines from Rusty's (came with the horrid kit) but no brackets for them. It seems I can't find the brackets anywhere locally, and I think it'd be a pain to order them. So, do you think I could get away with YJ lines and dropped brackets? Thats with 7"~ of lift and what appears to be a very flexy suspension setup... For the price of shipping and the time it would take me, these are easiest as they are in stock locally, and not too expensive. It's that or if I can find someplace that will sell me just the brackets, and ship to Canada...

All 2.5s had open systems, IIRC.

They should. The trans are only about 1/2" different in length. I think.