DirtyComanche

I guess I'm not the farthest from the badlands out of everyone on this board. I still don't think I want to make the drive though. Blah. It'd be cool to be around a bunch of non-stock 'manches.

Greasable shackles have a grease fitting (zerk) so that you can grease the bushings. The stock (or normal) shackles don't. I think it's a feel good feature, but not really that useful. Oh, get some full-size chevy 2" drop shackles, they will give you two inches of lift to match the front. As long as they look beefy, they'll hold. And to install the rear shackles, you'll need: Breaker bar (Or wrench and a long peice of pipe) 21mm socket/wrench Propane torch (optional, heat helps get the bolts out) Bottle jack (To force the spring down to fit the shackle back in place) PB blaster/liquid wrench Lock-tite It's pretty straight forward, just do one side at a time. Somebody else might give you more details. I'm too lazy.

Umm, it'll still work regardless of position. The linkage on mine fell off some years ago (before I bought it) and the rear brakes worked fine.

How about something for the guys without beds. You know you want to.... (Yes, I full on expect that you wouldn't cater to the two or three board members without beds.)

Well, the funny thing is they already were... Ohwell. Nothing a sledgehammer and some cussing won't fix.

That worked well. Only issue was that I then backed it out of the garage without brakes, but forgot to close my door... Yeah, so, umm, doorless until I fix the hinge pins. (Yes, I am just reaffirming my previous statement that I am an idiot.)

That's a vacuum issue. Have fun.

I'm leaning towards the silver. The OD is kinda puky.

Apparently they're 'close enough' that with a fair amount of swearing, it will bolt up. Not ideal for your springs or anything else. But I've never bothered to measure to confirm this.

I won't speak for him; but it looks like a 3/4 eliptical setup. I contemplaited one. Then got lazy.

I was thinking the other type... Damn, I'm an idiot. Well, let's see if I have any of those here. I have a sinking feeling they're all 150Km away at our cabin...

Maybe... The problem is it's a cyclindrical sleeve. It'll just slip. I think. That's why I was going to weld the flat bar on it. I really don't want to waste my nickel rod. I have trouble getting it.

Or a couple peice of box tubing (say 2x2x.250) and an angle grinder will make them for well, very little.

But if he has a sledgehammer, sawzall, or angle grinder, it would soon become a 'non-issue'.

I'll give him a try. Hmm, next problem... Any good way to turn the adjusting sleeve on the stock drag link? I need to turn mine about 20 times, I've managed to get it around about once using pliers. I then thought I'd make things easy and weld some flat bar onto it so I could turn it with a regular old wrech. Turns out it's cast. I'm not wasting my nickel rod on that. I guess I could buy the proper tool? (Whatever that is)

Well. it's pretty simple. I've got stainless front lines from Rusty's (came with the horrid kit) but no brackets for them. It seems I can't find the brackets anywhere locally, and I think it'd be a pain to order them. So, do you think I could get away with YJ lines and dropped brackets? Thats with 7"~ of lift and what appears to be a very flexy suspension setup... For the price of shipping and the time it would take me, these are easiest as they are in stock locally, and not too expensive. It's that or if I can find someplace that will sell me just the brackets, and ship to Canada...

All 2.5s had open systems, IIRC.

They should. The trans are only about 1/2" different in length. I think.

Lowering the hangers will get them caught up on things...

They aren't smart like that. They billed/sent me a short arm kit the first time (should have just @#$%ing kept it) when I specifically said the long arm one 5 times. I also asked if there'd be any fittament problems with the LA kit and I got a "Nope, should just bolt right up". Right. After you rebuild half of it yourself.

I'd bastard pack/slightly longer shackles it all the way. But I'm like that.

Should. They are identical if I remember right.

Uh, phone them up and b*@$£. They will warranty the springs as it doesn't cost them anything (they're outsourced).

Got to give him credit for taking that thing out... I thought I was being reckless when I wheeled my mom's 04 WJ.

My guess would be too thin of tubes. They aren't truck axles...