DirtyComanche

Well, there's a massive dent in the stock downpipe to clear the front driveshaft. I figure that alone is good enough.

People say the 4.0 does. Doesn't matter. I ran around open header until I got sick of it. Run a glasspack now. Lot nicer on the trail.

All it does is increase intake runner length, effectivly shifting the power band to a higher RPM range. Unfortunatly it has a negative effect on low end. However, on a motor that makes patheticTQ@2100 and horridHP@4500, it is really a neglible difference. At most you will pick up 1-2HP at the high end. Bang for the buck it blows.

Even if they do, I'd not recommend one.

Yeah, I've already got one. Might as well. If it doesn't work, I'll go square...

Still don't have my D44 back! We broke the damn bearing press halfway through the install! Hopefully I'll get it back by saturday. Got my fans fixed, the tranny mount mostly working (gotta do a bit more welding on it), and the leaf hangers all welded up gooder. Just gotta do a bit more work on them, and build a driveshaft, and I think I'll be cooking. Unless I'm forgetting things? Oh yeah, the massive holes in my unibody at the front! And I still need to ream out my pitman arm. My main problem right now is that I can't find the part number for the flange that is used on the rodeo D44 rears. This would allows me to run a spicer 1310 U-joint on my 12B rear. No isuzu dealer in this town, have to make a road trip. Over the phone didn't work worth crap 'companion flange? what's that?' ugh.

I was thinking about trying to have two (one on each side of the driveshaft). Then I got a propane tank that came 2/3's full and is 140L or something stupid. For $65. The propane in it is work about $90.

I ran the engine and bled off the air. Needed to see if the damn thing leaks. Now if I could just get my front axle back.

They aren't hard. The old ones were actually rusted on so bad that I cut the lines off and used the impact to get the fittings out. Hence getting new lines. The only reason I was having problems is that I moved my radiator so the lower hose makes it a REALLY tight fit. Dunno about pulling apart the pump. I doubt it's bad at all.

Uh, nevermind this. It helps if you try to put the line in the right port.

I hate cameras. There's two intersections in town that you can't run becuase of them. All the others are fair game.

Umm, can anybody explain to me why the junkyard PS line I got off a 4.0 renix cherokee won't fit on my renix MJ steering box? The fitting is the wrong size...

Not a fan. Too much weight where you don't want it. I was a set portal-teks. Not gonna happen.

Can I guess drop brackets?

The C stands for Custom, not C-Clip. Dana calls any axle they ship unfinished 'Custom'. So all that means is that Jeep finished the assembly on the axles. But, the later D35s were D35Cs... Yes, the c-clip versions. Even though C did not stand for c-clip. At least, that's how I understood it. I don't really care as I don't do anything with D35s. Although, I might take the one out of my XJ and make it into some weird art work.

You mean 242? If so, it'll bolt to it.

Looks good. :cheers:

Yeah, it'll be a NP231. Oh, and you have a D35 axle actually, not a D35C. That's a good thing (not a great thing, or anything, but a D35 is better than a D35C) Unless you have a metric ton, in which case you got a D44...

well its going to have to.. b/c I'm not driving my jeep down with no top BRRR. Got wolly underwear?

FWIW, I bought a propane tank (it came filled, gotta love the boneyard) and an Impco E regulator witha vacuum lockoff (I'd prefer electric, but, it was a good deal). I also picked up another renix TB to modify the hell out of to adapt the 300A to. Looks do-able. Might not be pretty. But as my hardcore redneck friend says "Who needs a lathe? You can make a pretty round hole with a hole saw". Oh, and the D44 goes out tomorrow to be geared.

Or how about a writeup forum? One that's basically locked other than for proper write-ups. I might write some-what biased tech articles if I had a place to put them.

Check the resistance on the sending unit, if it checks out (0-90~ Ohms, IIRC), then the gauge is fubar. Personally I don't care if the gauge doesn't work. I clock my tanks with the trip-ometer or go by the feel of things.

It's easier to build long arms than it is to convert to front leafs... So, anybody who ever thinks that front leafs are easy, well, think again.

Huh? He has crossover? He can go SOA without steering mods then.... Unless he's running the inverted T setup that JCR sells (which I think you mean), and then it won't worth worth crap SOA.

This is gonna be ugly. In order to get hat much lift you're going to need a seriously arched spring (if I had a pic of my waggy springs I could show you what I mean, and they are SOA) or REALLY low hangers. I'd recommend looking at a different steering setup... What's he running? Inverted T? Because you can make a lot of lowsteer work with SOA other than inverted T/Y setups, basically.