DirtyComanche

Aren't those pretty much the cheapest shocks you can buy? Take 'em off and go for a little spin and see how things are.

Yes... Umm, I found the stock springs to be very soft. What are you running for shocks? You 'feel' the shocks more than the springs a lot of the time...

Hi guys, I had a guy asking about this kit (and chewed me on the $$$) and the reason our kit is more $$$ is due to the fact we include the new parking brake cables and conversion yoke with our kit. As in a slip-yoke eliminator? No, spicer part number c2-2-****, it's the companion flange. Hell, I could get you the part number and get the part from the spicer dealer for $30... Or GET IT WITH THE AXLE!

That's MORE. They're @#$%ers.

In the US you're more likely to see propane on forklifts or other machinery. Never caught on like it did here; as the government used to offer a tax rebate when you converted your vehicle that was valued at $1000 - it would cover the conversion easily. What do you want to know? I'll convert my 4-oh as soon as I get off my @$$ and make an adapter for the TB...

Well, it doesn't actually have a differential. It's a planetary gear set. Part time and Full time are the same other than it does some magic to bias the torque (I THINK it is wheel speed actually). But, off-road using it in part-time works best. (Yeah, it has part and full time) Now, if you wheel a newer jeep with a part time/full time tcase, full time is useless off road. The viscious couple simply slips and you have a nice one tire spinning effect and then I start swearing at the stupid luxary 05 WJ thingo that I borrow from my mom to go wheeling in because I figure dying young will at least not be boring.

Yeah, definatly different construction to me. All we do is take off the top soil until we find somehting hard (rock, glacial till, etc) cut a couple deep holes in it for frost-free footings, then lay out the rebar and start with the concrete. But, congrats. A flat lot is a good lot.

Eye candy is good. Oh, the trucks pretty nice too.

Don't say honda, don't say honda, don't say honda....

Actually... The NP242 does not use a differential. It uses a planetary gearset that splites the torque between the front and rear in 48/52 bias or 'something'. I've never tore one down. But they don't work like newer full-time tcases that use a differential or a viscious coupler.

Most re-use the stock pump in a fuel cell... Summit sells some nice inline pumps. Just has to have a decent flow rate and put out 50psi or so.

My height-sensing loading valve BS doesn't work. The 8.8 worked fine with disks with all the stock stuff.

That style of brace only helps so much. Make it as strong as you want, but the bolts for the steering box will probably still pull through partially then loosen off. Leading to bad things. Hydro-assist. It's the answer.

You'll be back to the BFG's after trying the MTR's!! Like it or not, BFG's are THE tire all others are judged by. For a street/trail tire. If offroad only, SWAMPERS RULE!!! Doubt it. The BFGs don't suit this area. That and I ate two sidewalls on the last trip. I run rock/logs/snow/mild dirt. Most of which the BFGs hate. I was going to get a set of (new) TSLs, but yeah, too poor.

Keep in mind that if you convert this axle to 5x4.5, but want to run a D44 front, well, you can't go 5x4.5 on a D44 front unless you run unit bearings (you do NOT want to go down this road). The wide-track jeeps at 63" rear, 64" front are actually not a bad width. If you run say a 15x8 with 4.5" BS it'd be barely wider than my NT setup with 15x8's with 3.5" BS. And I'm narrow enough to fit through pretty much anything that anybody else can (other than those stupid suzuki guys). True full-width is 67" WMS-WMS. Now, you never said what size tires you want? I hate the D30, so, I always tell people to get rid of it for anything over 33s. But, if you plan to run a D44 front, you're going to run into a lot of trouble if you keep that axle at its current width. Why? All W/T front axles are passenger side drop (If I'm not mistaken). This necessitates a tcase swap... Now, if you want to go D44s front and rear and at the current width of that axle and are willing to take the time to do the work; then I'd say keep it as is. I'd NOT consider narrowing it. I was narrowing a HPD44 for my front, and basically gave up simply because it was so time consuming and was going to cost me a bunch more money in the end. I wound up trading it off for - actually, it's going to decrease the cost of my chromos and 37s. If you want to stick with the D30 front, look for an 8.8 or an XJ/MJ D44, for an MJ/SJ AMC20, or a SJ D44. Or run an isuzu 12B with adpater to the 5x4.5 pattern... It'll net you 4.56s and disk brakes (LSD or 4.77 gears optional). Or even a bloody toyota rear.

Looking at how it burned... I think I could fix it in a very drunken weekend and have it running by the monday. It's not bad at all. But, if you want to sell it, I'm sure somebody will want to pick it up as it's an excellent starting point.

Actually, I hadn't considered that. The 12B calipers are bigger than the 8.8 ones, and the D44 calipers are way bigger than the D30... Hmm.

They aren't exactly round.

Either there's air in the lines or the master is on its way out. Just kinda squishy, but they do work. I need to re-bleed them and go from there.

I thought you already had too many?

For the amount of time I spend wallowing in the mud, it doesn't matter. Now just if I could sell my BFGs. Well, for more than the current highest bid of $302.01 for 5! (with rims)

Dude, fix it... Well, take a look at how bad that is under the hood. If you're just going to be re-wiring and resensoring, and putting a new hood on, it's a weekend project. Although, the fuel lines and crap will probably be wrecked too.

Well, the reason it wouldn't be worth anything is it won't run. I'd rewire it. But, that's because I'd be putting a minimal wiring setup on it.

As it is, not much.

Nah, it's turning the motor over. That's why I said to use 4lo, it means that it has to turn the motor 2.72X more - making it very hard. That's why you are supposed to leave it in 1st or reverse.