DirtyComanche

I voted Canada... Specifically I'd recommend Vancouver Island. There's some VERY hardcore wheeling there. Just, it's not like the high-traction rock of Moab. And it doesn't snow (much) there, unless you go up into the hills. Also it's warm enough that palm trees can survive. So, the those who aren't used to the cold don't have a major fit every winter...

That's the reason they're shaped that way. You're more of a street guy, eh? Probably won't be a problem..

I'd want to be very confident in my fab skills before I did it... Having a link/bushing/bracket fail on the street coul be bad. Properly setup it'll drive fine though.

Your link ends shouldn't be providing stability. That's for the actual suspension geometry OR for an anti-sway bar (like an anti-rock...).

The wider you place the coils the more 'stable' it'll seem. But, you're doing that by hurting flex. Although, typically it won't matter as you're going to hit your bumpstops first. So, you normally move them as far outwards as possible. Unless you have a 2KLB zuki and 220lb/in coils in the rear. Then you put them right next to each other - and jsut tip over every now and again. As far as the joints go, I personally believe in using matched joints on both ends of a link. Why? They're both going to travel the same number of degrees. If you're cheap, you could get away with running a bushing at one end and a proper joint at the other. And as far as the joints go, just get something that's greaseable/rebuildable and suits your plans and budget. It doesn't need to be hardcore HD if you're going to run 1/2-ton axle on a light vehicle like a MJ. Especially if you're building a 4-link which has 4 joints on each end to spread the load. I don't yet have a brand favorite, as I haven't got that far yet...

I wonder if the pinion is offset at all, or if it uses same length axle shafts? I still don't think I want to go to 67" wide. If I could get it down to 64" that would be really cool. But, I'm not sure... Okay, I think I've got another lawn ornament. I can always sell it if I change my mind.

Well, Randy's list down to 5.38 for a Ford 10.25... That'd be the same axle, methinks. Hmm. I hate stuff that's a really good deal.

I decided I'll expend some time on this if it is really what people want to see. I need feedback. Is this what you want to see? Or what you think a noobie wants to see? Should I condense it more, or leave the answers as lengthy as they are? Anything I should add? Should I really offer some insight into more complicated suspension setups? Should I offer simple advice about dropping/lowering (although, I'm sadly lacking when it comes to this)? I did re-organize it so at least it is broken down into a semblence of sections.

Anybody know off-hand what ratios you can get for a sterling 10.25? I think they're stuck at 4.10 being the lowest? Curiosity.

Pre-runner? I don't know of any deserts in Ontario...

To make it fit a MJ would require rebuilding most of it. They aren't too forthcoming with the pictures, but I think it's a parrel lower and triangulated upper link setup. I would avoid these if you intend to have a lot of flex in the rear - as the axle will 'steer' itself, and it makes the vehicle very uncontrolable when attempting to climb with the suspension flexed out. But, that doesn't mean 4-linking/coiling the rear of a MJ is a bad idea. I've toyed with the idea, and plan to eventually. BrettM runs one I think (or is it a 3-link? ask him). Pingpong wants to do it.

It was most likely a bumper made out of HSS (square tube) that had the ends welded up. Then a NPT fitting to attach a quick release would have been tapped in. The tank is simply filled by any source of compressed air (gas station, your shop compressor, etc) and a hose and air chuick are carried along to use it when needed. It's alright as long as you have enough bumper.

Are you looking for an engine driven compressor or a stand-alone unit? The naxja guys know of a cheap 12V jobby that apparently 'works' - probably not well. If you go engine driven, you can use the stock sanden AC compressor as long as you install an inline oiler. Or, you can use a GM sanden compressor which has an internal oiling system. Or, you can get a york compressor out of a FSJ or Volvo. Another option is the 12V compressor for air ride caddy's.

Got a link to the kit?

Yeah... If I tried to remove mine, my leaks will probably get worse, or, the whole tank will jsut come apart...

Your RHD as it is, eh? Waggy fronts are very easy to find over here. As a rough estimate I'd say 10% of older cherokees were waggys. Price can vary between about $10 and $150! U-pull-it is the place to go, as they are very easy to remove.

Shouldn't be a problem. All the wiring is there normally, but not hooked up.

I can eat a foot long subway sub, balance the drink, and drive all at the same time. Things can get strange if you actually use your turn signals... I'm NOT about to say it's resposible. But, when I'm hungry people don't like me. So, it's probably for the better.

Well, you're either going to need to put the tie-rod above the leaf springs and have the drag link connect to it - which will require two highsteer knuckles/arms, or put the tie-rod under the springs and have the drag link connect to the passenger side knuckle top. I don't even know if you can run a crossover setup with a low tie-rod on a D30 - I don't think you couls source the parts. You're looking at a LOT of money to do it. Hi-steer on a D44 can be done quite cheap (chevy knuckles, mill the passenger side and tap it, and a $100 set of arms). However, I opted to buy parts mike knuckles as they are a lot beefier than the stock D44 stuff and raise the steering arms another inch. They also came with new ball-joints and all the hardware! Without some form of highsteer you will never be able to build a steering setup that will actually work and not be horribly weak. EDIT: Unless you stay SUA. If this is a viable option to you *smack* well, just *smack*.

It's just as easy to put a D44 in as a D30, so you might as well. Basically, you're either going to need crossover, or a high-steer inverted T. If you want pics of mine, I could be forthcoming (it's a bit booty).

It's your control arms pulling the axle back. You need slightly longer arms, or to live with the rubbing.

I want the cab! Okay, okay, that's a logistical nightmare.

Lowest is 4.88 for a HPD30 that I know of.

Other way! Although, I can't comment about mexico. Everything in canada costs more. I have no idea why. Yes, that is factoring in exchange.

Look under a unimog :brows: It's a triangulated single arm that actually only uses one joint - on the frame end. Unimogs use what they call "torque tube suspension" or something - the driveshaft is actually an intergal part of the single link. There's zero-links too. Then things start getting odd.