DirtyComanche

They were torqued right; at least I am pretty certain they were. I check them after I drive it normally... Maybe I should try before from now on... 4 studs were gone, either sheared or stripped and fell out. Two were still in but stripped. I was doing about 40km/h when I felt the wobble and stuck my head out of the window and went 'oh $#!&'. It hit the pavement pretty hard, but I think the rotor is still serviceable. There was some thread damage on them before, as it was a junkyard axle... Guess it serves me right for not replacing them.

I think it's 3.73. Anyways, it's a pretty straight foreward swap. There's a couple of links to write-ups in that FAQ that's lost in the general section. Get the companion flage with the axle, and the u-bolts, and the springs plates. It makes life easier.

You drop it, you have to drop the track-bar.

Well, if anybody is in my neck of the woods and finds all of the lug nuts and studs that I lost - I want 'em back! So, are aftermarket wheel studs better than OEM ones?

I wanna see his inner fenders!

You can always try putting it in 5th.

It was introduced mid-year, eh?

LP D44 centre, D44 inners (sorta...), D30 knuckles and outers. It is a POLISHED TURD! Oh, and they cost a LOT. Anyways, there's no front axles that you can swap in that are the right width and bolt pattern and any stronger, other than said rubi axle, and there's an 80-something dodge axle that came in some sort of smaller truck (dakota? dunno) that is rumoured to be the right width and sports the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. However, it has unit bearings like the D30/Rubi-D44, and is apparently very weak. If you're willing to change bolt patterns, then you can narrow a Ford HPD44. I was going to do that - too much work.

Do you have to move to the place that wins the poll? :brows: Because if so, you're about to become :Canadaflag:

None were factory. Swaps happen. Since they bolt right in. Some junkyards don't even know the difference - and will even sell a D44 off to a mechanic that will go "Hmm? Ohwell, it bolts in." But, I've never found one that had been swapped. I've seen very few originals too. Oh, another thing, are you sure on the year of the XJ? Yards f' that up too.

Not to mention that it's probably the most successful Jeep product ever.

Kia... I say nothing more.

I voted Canada... Specifically I'd recommend Vancouver Island. There's some VERY hardcore wheeling there. Just, it's not like the high-traction rock of Moab. And it doesn't snow (much) there, unless you go up into the hills. Also it's warm enough that palm trees can survive. So, the those who aren't used to the cold don't have a major fit every winter...

That's the reason they're shaped that way. You're more of a street guy, eh? Probably won't be a problem..

I'd want to be very confident in my fab skills before I did it... Having a link/bushing/bracket fail on the street coul be bad. Properly setup it'll drive fine though.

Your link ends shouldn't be providing stability. That's for the actual suspension geometry OR for an anti-sway bar (like an anti-rock...).

The wider you place the coils the more 'stable' it'll seem. But, you're doing that by hurting flex. Although, typically it won't matter as you're going to hit your bumpstops first. So, you normally move them as far outwards as possible. Unless you have a 2KLB zuki and 220lb/in coils in the rear. Then you put them right next to each other - and jsut tip over every now and again. As far as the joints go, I personally believe in using matched joints on both ends of a link. Why? They're both going to travel the same number of degrees. If you're cheap, you could get away with running a bushing at one end and a proper joint at the other. And as far as the joints go, just get something that's greaseable/rebuildable and suits your plans and budget. It doesn't need to be hardcore HD if you're going to run 1/2-ton axle on a light vehicle like a MJ. Especially if you're building a 4-link which has 4 joints on each end to spread the load. I don't yet have a brand favorite, as I haven't got that far yet...

I wonder if the pinion is offset at all, or if it uses same length axle shafts? I still don't think I want to go to 67" wide. If I could get it down to 64" that would be really cool. But, I'm not sure... Okay, I think I've got another lawn ornament. I can always sell it if I change my mind.

Well, Randy's list down to 5.38 for a Ford 10.25... That'd be the same axle, methinks. Hmm. I hate stuff that's a really good deal.

I decided I'll expend some time on this if it is really what people want to see. I need feedback. Is this what you want to see? Or what you think a noobie wants to see? Should I condense it more, or leave the answers as lengthy as they are? Anything I should add? Should I really offer some insight into more complicated suspension setups? Should I offer simple advice about dropping/lowering (although, I'm sadly lacking when it comes to this)? I did re-organize it so at least it is broken down into a semblence of sections.

Anybody know off-hand what ratios you can get for a sterling 10.25? I think they're stuck at 4.10 being the lowest? Curiosity.

Pre-runner? I don't know of any deserts in Ontario...

To make it fit a MJ would require rebuilding most of it. They aren't too forthcoming with the pictures, but I think it's a parrel lower and triangulated upper link setup. I would avoid these if you intend to have a lot of flex in the rear - as the axle will 'steer' itself, and it makes the vehicle very uncontrolable when attempting to climb with the suspension flexed out. But, that doesn't mean 4-linking/coiling the rear of a MJ is a bad idea. I've toyed with the idea, and plan to eventually. BrettM runs one I think (or is it a 3-link? ask him). Pingpong wants to do it.

It was most likely a bumper made out of HSS (square tube) that had the ends welded up. Then a NPT fitting to attach a quick release would have been tapped in. The tank is simply filled by any source of compressed air (gas station, your shop compressor, etc) and a hose and air chuick are carried along to use it when needed. It's alright as long as you have enough bumper.

Are you looking for an engine driven compressor or a stand-alone unit? The naxja guys know of a cheap 12V jobby that apparently 'works' - probably not well. If you go engine driven, you can use the stock sanden AC compressor as long as you install an inline oiler. Or, you can use a GM sanden compressor which has an internal oiling system. Or, you can get a york compressor out of a FSJ or Volvo. Another option is the 12V compressor for air ride caddy's.