DirtyComanche

Got a link to the kit?

Yeah... If I tried to remove mine, my leaks will probably get worse, or, the whole tank will jsut come apart...

Your RHD as it is, eh? Waggy fronts are very easy to find over here. As a rough estimate I'd say 10% of older cherokees were waggys. Price can vary between about $10 and $150! U-pull-it is the place to go, as they are very easy to remove.

Shouldn't be a problem. All the wiring is there normally, but not hooked up.

I can eat a foot long subway sub, balance the drink, and drive all at the same time. Things can get strange if you actually use your turn signals... I'm NOT about to say it's resposible. But, when I'm hungry people don't like me. So, it's probably for the better.

Well, you're either going to need to put the tie-rod above the leaf springs and have the drag link connect to it - which will require two highsteer knuckles/arms, or put the tie-rod under the springs and have the drag link connect to the passenger side knuckle top. I don't even know if you can run a crossover setup with a low tie-rod on a D30 - I don't think you couls source the parts. You're looking at a LOT of money to do it. Hi-steer on a D44 can be done quite cheap (chevy knuckles, mill the passenger side and tap it, and a $100 set of arms). However, I opted to buy parts mike knuckles as they are a lot beefier than the stock D44 stuff and raise the steering arms another inch. They also came with new ball-joints and all the hardware! Without some form of highsteer you will never be able to build a steering setup that will actually work and not be horribly weak. EDIT: Unless you stay SUA. If this is a viable option to you *smack* well, just *smack*.

It's just as easy to put a D44 in as a D30, so you might as well. Basically, you're either going to need crossover, or a high-steer inverted T. If you want pics of mine, I could be forthcoming (it's a bit booty).

It's your control arms pulling the axle back. You need slightly longer arms, or to live with the rubbing.

I want the cab! Okay, okay, that's a logistical nightmare.

Lowest is 4.88 for a HPD30 that I know of.

Other way! Although, I can't comment about mexico. Everything in canada costs more. I have no idea why. Yes, that is factoring in exchange.

Look under a unimog :brows: It's a triangulated single arm that actually only uses one joint - on the frame end. Unimogs use what they call "torque tube suspension" or something - the driveshaft is actually an intergal part of the single link. There's zero-links too. Then things start getting odd.

You get away with a radius arm front setup because flex steer can be corrected via steering input, and that anti-squat (well, anti-dive in the front) is not as important. In an off-road situation it is certainly not ideal. In a street application it is workable, as there is little suspension travel to cause flex steer, and the arms are at a much milder angle which allows you to still control anti-squat. Building a 3 or 4 link is not too much harder. Just have to plug the numbers... Or, even a 1-link.

The only dealership that I've ever liked was the chevy one. Mostly because he neither sold me anything, nor tried to. He flat out told me that he could not get what I wanted (an isuzu part) but gave me the names and numbers of about 50 places to try. Then talked to me about jeeps for about a half hour. I wonder why he works there?

Used. Yes. Used. The best way. Otherwise I'd drive accross the border. There's about a 50% markup right there. Or if you have a shipping address in the states, you can order them from some of the places in the 4wd mags for fairly cheap. Or, go hi-tech retreads!

Amen to that! I got my hands on a used lockright to replace the minispool in my front Dana 44. Why not just go hydro-assist? I'm thinking I can do mine for about $100. You could use BrettM's setup and come in under $100 (for the parts). I know you'd need to spend some money to get everything welded...

Yup. (Look up)

Yup. Mine are for sale! If I could ever convince anybody to buy them... 37" MT/Rs here I come. Now we get to see how strong an isuzu axle is... Long as you don't start out with say 3.07s and then go to 4.10s. You'd need a new carrier then. So, you'd have to reweld.

Too lazy to do it... It needs work. Sometime.

Oh sorry, forgot you mentioned that. That will work. I'd still do steering upgrades seeing as how the stock stuff is total crap. I calculated that I can't actually build the JCR setup for the price they sell it. It's a good deal. I only worry that the tubing might be a little thin? However, it should hold up fine for 99% of people.

With the D30, yes. Long as you don't need a carrier with a different off-set. 3.55 and higher is a different offset carrier than 3.73 and lower gears...

It locks both axle shafts together. Same as a full spool, but it slips inside the carrier and replaces the spiders like a lunchbox locker. No difference in wheel speed is aloud between tires. I have one in my front (well, a full spool) and you had better plan steering upgrades.

There's only one way to find out... Weld it correctly (spiders to each other, spiders to housing, put a peice of pipe in between the splined spiders and weld it to them too) and oil bath it when it cools. I be you'll break everything else in that axle first.

Propane is a waste gas from oil refining... But, they aren't aloud to burn it for environmental reasons. They sell it literally because they can't do anything else. I know of a couple vehicles (they're 5-ton trucks with dual tank setups, probably carry 800L of propane!) that would love to take advantage of that $80 fill.

Thought they did. Well, hmm, I'd think one doesn't exist then.