DirtyComanche

Is the cage in the front portion going to be endo or exo? I'm looking around for people with exos that are narrow. I'm the same width as you, and I've found the exo'd XJ guys get caught up on everything. I figured mine isn't going to be doing the best job of saving the sheetmetal. But that's okay. As far as your axle strength goes... I think the 8.8 will do alright; depending on what your final weight comes in at. That tube bed doesn't look the lighest (did you say what wall size it is?). I know of many 8.8s in relatively light jeeps running 37s and 38s that are successful. I think if you're going to be really worried about the 8.8 you should start worrying about the D44.

You take it to one of those autoparts stores and ask them to test it... But, I just go by looking at the gauges with it running. Tunr the key to on and you should have about 12V, start it and it should go up to 14-18V.

A 40 of crown. I can fix anyyyyyyyyyythiun'.

I got a bunch of hole saws... Well, the good ones are like $10 each, so considering I got about 15 of them I can't complain. But, to celebrate I went out and bought a hydraulic ram, and had some hoses made. Hydro-assist is now in the works...

Well, ARBs don't like being subjected to extreme cold. Otherwise I think they're fine.

I think they sell bigelows... They're for tractors - 42* of joint operation or something. Problem - $1600 for a rear driveshaft. I'm sure he'll deal with it though! He's got sponsers; the lucky bastard.

Jeep cheaped out and went back to a LP front axle for unknown reasons. Yeah, TJs have driveline angle problems. But, the front is actually better than the rear normally... My buddy's YJ now has a front driveshaft length of 48", and a rear length of 18". I think he's going to have to run a bigelow shaft in the rear.

I know it sounds weird, but, they're actually wrong. Yes, in foreward motion a HP gearset in a front axle is stronger - as the gears are meshing on the drive side. BUT - how do you break a front axle in foreward motion? Well, you can, I'm not saying it is impossible, but about 75% of the vehicles weight will be being pushed by the rear axle. Hence, if your axles are of reasonably matched strengths the rear will give long before the front. Also, typically you climb over obstaces while on the throttle in a foreward motion. Now even more weight has transfered to the rear gearset - the front is pulling somewhat but it is seeing far less force than the rear. When is the load on the front axle the greatest? Well, do you compression brake down hills for all your worth? (I do, brakes are iffy) Now the HP front axle is driving on the coast side of the gears - the weak side. And the majority of your vehicles weight has transfered to the front axle as you are probably going downhill in a forewards direction. Now, as another scenario I get into sometimes, what if you have to back up while going uphill, or while bound up? Now that front R&P is on the coast side, and again the majority of the vehicles weight is on it. If you're bound up it can be even worse... Then you get in a situation called 'Pop goes the thirdy'. Oh, and FWIW, the difference in strength between the coast and drive sides of the gears is about 5%. Not much. Enough to matter? Sometimes. If you're a monster mudder or something, no, never. But, for the most part it is moot. However, I NEVER want to hear somebody say the HPD30 R&P is as strong as the LPD44 in a front application. Remember, the D30 R&P is the same size as a D35... And that ain't good thing! (But, do not in any way mistake this for endorsing the rubi-CON D44. Also bear in mind I read very little of the thread, I just saw something that irked me) :cheers:

so a d30 high pinion is just as strong as a d44 low pinion? i know a high pinion would be better, but i didn't think that would be stronger. now if i added an axle truss of somekind would that give a d30 or d44 a lot more strength and make it worth it? Uh, a LPD44 is WAY WAY WAY stronger than a HPD30. Even in a front application. A HP axle being stronger in the front is a myth, based on a poor understanding of physics.

Well, I've got another PS box to go in (tapped for hydro-assist) so I was going to have to pull the lines off anyways. With a little luck I just ruptured a line and the pump will still be operable. Keeping my fingers crossed on that. Whatever went it was major - I lost all of the fluid in about 3 seconds. It was the pump that was producing the white smoke - it was underhood. I figured 'oh $#!&, I already used up my fire exstiquisher' when I saw it. Either way it's a PITA because now my entire engine bay has PS fluid in it.

So, I went outside to put new studs in my front axle. To replace the ones that broke. And yes, the parts stores had to order them in for me. Of course, I'm sick, and it's BFing cold out. Luckily we left a block under the axle so I didn't have to piss around with the floor jack anymore than necessary. But, then I realized that with a spool I can't just turn the hub/rotor to get access to the studs that are behind the caliper. Unless I lift the other tire up. Which, when you're parked on sloped ice didnt seem like a lot of fun. So, I got three of six studs in, put the tire back on and let her back down. Fired up after a little cranking... White smoke. Just a little, but a bad sign. Pop the hood; power steering fluid all over the f'ing place. I figured I had better just get it in the garage at that point. Easier said than done with a spooled front and no PS. Took me maybe 10 minutes to get it in. And that was with driving it in the wrong direction to save turns. Pop the hood again and start looking for what blew in the PS. Then I notice a PCV line is undone from the intake... The bung is missing. It's not in the intake - it's gone through the engine. Luckily it was just rubber... Figured I had better quit at this point. So I left it. But, I got my new 37s and chromos. Maybe I should go mount 'em up seeing as how I probably won't destroy anything doing that.

Nice truss. Wish I had put more time into mine.

The more hardcore guys would plate the holes up and put a skid over the entire belly. Doesn't matter unless you live in rocks, and can't stand a few dings underneath.

Bolts to the AX-15, right? Somebody did it.

Take the cap off and drive it. Find a good steep hill and face down it and rock the thing.

Cheapest would be to grab another 2.5 out of the boneyard, or maybe a jeep that's parked at wal-mart. I'd put a V8 in it. I bet you'll not regret it.

It's a BA10/5? Then you have to grind down an extension for a ratchet. Or buy metric steel (square stock).

The extra width doesn't bother me! So, I figured it's the best option. The ones that weld inside the lip come out narrower than the ones that weld to the outside. Depending how nice your rims are, you might look at a junkyard set. Finding a set of 15x7s is easy.

Anybody got some? I think I should pick up a set. Figure it will make life more fun. http://rockcityfab.com/beadlocks.html http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/ I think the second option is better because they seem to understand the whole shipping predicament I'm in. But, anti-coning rings for free... Hmm.

Duallies are stupid off-road... Once you let enough air out of the tire so that they touch (as it says i nthe ad) you create a massive friction point. Say hello to tire failure. If you want a wide tire; buy one. Although, I think it would be kinda cool to cruise around in.

JCwhittney or whatever-the-fawk they're called sells replacement stock packs. No idea if they are any good. It's that or the junkyard. Or order some nice alcans...

You can't do it like that. The gears must be "set up" properly. If not they can burn up or break within miles or even less. Gear set-up is one of the very few things I will gladly pay to have a pro do (and it's $150-250 per axle). And I would personally NEVER consider using a Dana 35 for 33s, no matter what other people have thus far gotten away with. Especially when Explorer 8.8s are everywhere in the junkyards. Actually, 90% of the time you can get away with it. BUT - that is if they are truely the same axle. As in they came off the same line. Wether you can do that in this case I don't know. If not, it's a great chance to learn how! I mean, if they explode, who cares? But, I'd buy a real axle. There's a D44 rear with a full spool and 4.88s that's going for $100 around here... Look around for deals.

What would you guess? They're fake. I'd bet money on it. But, they're also wider. They increased the track slightly for 'stability' - ie; so morons stop rolling them in intersections.

It stays inside! So, nope. The nuts are fine. They're acorns, but they're the right length for the studs. The studs are also the right length for the rims... To top up the fun, nobody stocks the studs I need! Had to order the damn things in...

Looks a little lacking in creature comforts. (I hope he put a floor in it... or you gotta use the Fred Flinstone brakes)