DirtyComanche

It won't hurt it. The only reason it moves is the cylanders are leaking down. I just about had mine roll into a lake once, parked it and left it in 1st facing uphill, didn't think it'd roll and got out and started walking away and heard the crunching of it running over twigs on its way towards the water...

Yeah, but it's no biggy if you do hydrolock. Pull the plugs and turn it over with the starter.

Don't exceed the duty cycle and you'll be alight.

Strength difference between a LP and HP axle in the front is over-rated BS. I explained why at some point. Besides, it's a D-turdy, it's gonna break eventually. But, a HP axle will give you a far better driveshaft angle. I'm thinking of looking for another HP44 housing to cut down. (I traded the other one in part for some tires and rims... it's a long story) My leaf springs can very near bind the u-joint at forced droop on the driver's side. And they flex like LEAF SPRINGS!

Actually, that funky bushing thing is on all of the FSJs. Unfortunatly, I could not get one and didn't feel like arguing about it in the parts store. The washers worked quite well for being something I have on hand. Other than one you pull the tie-rod off you have a handful of greasy washers to put somewhere.

I actually use the arc to cut things a lot of the time. It's like a plasma, but really messy. Just the sort of thing you'd use on a jeep.

Take some 13/16th machine washers and put them between the TRE and steering knuckle, below the dust boot. It'll stop the tie-rod from rolling and remove the vaugeness. And bumpsteer is really more where you hold the wheel straight and hit a bump, and even though the wheel is still straight the tires turn due to the suspension travel. Basically, if you hit a speedbump and your truck pulls a lane change - you've got bumpsteer.

Umm, rubber bushings don't last if you really flex them....

I know that some of the ZJ D30s are LP for sure. Some might not be though? It's one of those situations where I really don't care because D30s are weak and icky.

I doubt it'll fit where it was supposed to go origonally.

With more lift, your tires will still be rubbing while stuffing. I suggest, figure out where it's hitting, pull your carpet back, sawzall the sheetmetal that is in your way out of your way, and patch the hole with some new sheetmetal that's been contoured by a hammer. And of course, I'm here with a link of it done on a Yota: http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=186287 That's PITA with a unibody. I moved the front axle foreward about 4-5"~ and cut the crap out of the inner fenders foreward from the seam by the coil tower. Then patched it. It is uglier than Lumby's (farm town) 'working girls' but it seems to work alright. Once I find a chevy 4.3 and associated parts I will cut most of the front off and re-do it.

Well, actually, regardless of what people tell you... It should be flat. And as long as possible. Hence I won't endorse any products out there. Maybe they actually fit - but I still think they suck.

That's what I thought too. But the pipe wrench actually just ripped metal off the plug. Hence I didn't try the vice grips and figured I'd start asking about extractors.

Yeah, there's a stock perche still there; I never got around to cutting it off. Maybe I should since the axle is out anyways. That's 3/16. I thought it was 1/4 but didn't measure it until I had cut it... I doubt it'll tear the bracket on the tie-rod, but the one on the pumpkin I'm a little more worried about. I couldn't put the bolt through it very far back in the bracket because of the shape of the ram. I might weld some plate to the top of the pumpkin bracket it make it thicker. The bottom isn't really a problem as it has a tension nut welded to the pumpkin/bracket. I think I'll be just giving it a shot and carry plugs. If it tears off, well, then it wasn't strong enough.

Yes. That ram could. But. the steering box, while it is an orbital valve of a sorts, is built so that the pitman arm provides control for the valving in it. If you don't have a drag link, you'll turn the wheel and the pitman arm will go to full lock in that direction and kill all pressure to the ram. With an orbital valve ment for full hydro steering it can be done. I'm not in the mood to buy one. They ain't cheap! Also, if you go full hydro normally a double ended ram is used so the fluid volume to move it either direction is equal. Or you'll have to turn the wheel 5 times to go left and only 3 to go right...

Uh, every post by edter54 should go.... Add abadmoenceder09 to that list too.

The origonal ones were. I blew up a couple AC-Delco units then said F' it and pulled an all origonal May of 89 mitsubishi starter and haven't had problems since. Knock on wood.

I'll put it on top of the tie-rod, right by where it was. If the bracket I welded on cools quickly enough I'll go back out and do it. I braced up the bracket on the tie-rod a bunch, and the otherone too. But, I don't have the right bolts/nuts so I can't finish it for a while... Grr.

Or has the spam been getting a bit thicker recently? :nuts:

Well, if you can stick... It's cheaper. It just takes longer unless you use really thick rod. But, you can do cast steel/iron with it too. I'd NEVER do that with a MIG. Edit: As I was unsure I checked and you can get high-nickel wire for a MIG to weld cast steel/iron. I mean, my AC/DC lincoln can do 225A AC and 135A DC which is plenty from the amperage standpoint unless I'm planning to try welding 1/2" steel overhead...

Looks like this.... Image Not Found (It's only tacked up, yes the metal isn't clean, no that's not a 6" ram) Comments? I have a clearance problem right now, but the angle grinder will fix that and allow me to have full steering travel in both directions... Think that bracket on the pumpkin is going to let me weld it in enough places? It's going to be like 9" of weld... Seeing about 2000lbs in sheer? Somebody tell me it'll be fine or I'm going to add more to it. Gotta make a new bracket for the drag link too. Turned out the tie-rod side of the ram had to be exactly where the old one was.

So, you're braggng because your wife can teach you how to use a computer? Mah, what's this world coming to? Good score. :cheers:

An XJ kit should fit as well as it would fit an XJ. But, be prepared to cut things up. I've never seen a coilover kit for an XJ. But I've never looked. For the most part you can get as good of performace out of regular coils/shocks. If you're building an ulta-light vehicle, yeah, coilovers could work.

A friend of mine has them on his YJ. You have to do some work to make them fit on an XJ/MJ though as you'll have to remove the old coil tower and make a new mount and tie it in. This often leads to having a lot more internal bracing and crap.

That works for droop, but, the axle will downtravel more (on each side) while flexing. I was suggested the F-350 shocks. But, anything that's not OEM has to be ordered in either way, so I might as well get the PORC shocks. Another option is monroes, #34687 is a 13" travel shock. But, that would require moving the axle mount up... Blah. If nobody local comes up with something used I'll call PORC and ask about shipping.