DirtyComanche

Nice jeep trucks. They're both very clean. I've almost bought a willys more than once. But, I'd do bad things to it, so it's best I don't.

It's been CRAZY warm here for the last 3 days. We're talking 21, 22, and 24 degrees C... That's like 70-75* for the southerners. Something has f'd up with the weather but I'm NOT gonna complain. I just hope it holds because I don't have any garage space unless I move the MJ - which the XJ is boxing in now.

Yeah. That I am. They're cheap and dirty, or simple, if you want. For the amount of effort required they work well, but they aren't by any means great. A LOT of people use them and like them. I'm not into them after seeing them in action a bunch and having had problems with my own. That was trying to do more technical trails though... Best setup on the street? No, not really. Most people/manufacterors combate the dive by going with a VERY STIFF front coil. However, between stiff coils and an anti-sway bar they ride fairly well and don't misbehave too badly.

I'm making this thread just to prove how slow I work... I have one week without work or school, and I NEED to fix everything that is already wrong with it or likely to go wrong within the next couple months. Mostly because I hate working on my DD when I know I'll need it, and it's currently a cop magnet. Problems: -2 wrecked motor mounts - FIXED -radiator with a hole in it - FIXED -bad tranny cooler lines - FIXED -bad thermostat - FIXED -exhaust 'issue' -wiring and cosmetic issue on tailgate -bent front bumper end (no front tag either) -whether strippg/window crank issue - FIXED -broken grille and cracked header panel -rust spots, ugly paint in general -horrid rear leafs... too stiff As it sits right now. Image Not Found The bad radiator is out, and all the front end crap is off. The motor mounts I removed. Image Not Found Obviously they were a little over-due for replacement. As I could tell by the exhaust hitting the tranny crossmember. Major PITA to change. Rust... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I hate dealing with doors.... but it must be done. Liftgate... Image Not Found The wiper doesn't work, the speakers are messed, and I need some mounts for the panel. Exhaust 'issue' Image Not Found Window issue... Image Not Found The track is bent, so it doesn't work too well... However, I remember I have a couple extra doors in storage that have good tracks/glass. So, I will pirate what I need. I had better get done in time. I'll pick up a replacement rad and tranny cooler lines tomorrow (I hope).

The have some inherent bind - which typically isn't a problem for jeep users. However, on a full-size rig (fords...) it can actually cause axle tube seperation. This is minor and normally can be over-come with using enough bushings on the axle side (cheap rubber ones work best... they give lots). The real problem with them is that they have horrid dive/squat and unloading tendencies. This is because it is impossible to get the geometry at all right on them and still have them flex/ride decent. This means stopping suddenly will cause a 'nose dive'. Likewise trying to brake downhill can lead to an endo. They also have a hop tendency when you hammer on the throttle as they pull down the rear of the truck downwards and lift the front. This is worse if you 'wrist' the setup to eliminate the bind tendency. All in all they work alright, but they're quick and dirty. Certainly not great. However, many people run them without complaint. A panharded 3-link is a far better setup - but with it you can't just go 'oh, I'm gonna make my arms (random number) long!' and have things work out at all okay. Oh, do yourself a favour and buy good joints (rebuildable heims or cartridge joints) for the frame end. Don't use any of that 'twisting thread' crap like you'll see on more than a few comercially sold setups out there.

Use whatever, long as it's ATF. NP tcases are ment to run on any.

I'd look on NAXJA for setups... Much as I hate the site, they have lots of LA builds. There's very little too them. Be aware they are quick and dirty, and definatly not the 'best'.

These would be best... For 33s I'd actually say the 95+ chrysler 8.25 is a good choice if you don't 'need' disk brakes. It will be plenty strong but the lowest gearing is 4.56 (which may or may not work for you). The best part is it is very avaliable - often for cheap. The 8.8 is a good axle if you find a junkyard one with 4.10s. That keeps over-all cost down as CW mentioned.

Axles I consider workable for a rear swap (where my list stands now): Ford 8.8 (explorer) disk and drum 5x4.5 XJ/MJ D44 5x4.5 MJ AMC20 5x4.5 Waggy D44 6x5.5 Waggy AMC20 6x5.5 Chrysler 8.25 (XJ, 95+) 5x4.5 Chrysler 8.75 (mopar muscle) 5x4.5 Isuzu 12B 6x5.5 Isuzu D44 6x5.5 EB 9" 5x5.5 Toy 8" 6x5.5 Nissan something-or-other (It might be 62-63" wide... I've still been meaning to look into it) 6x5.5 Unless you want to swap the front, you'll only want ones labelled as 5x4.5 (bolt pattern). Some of these axles are slightly narrow and could use spacers (you can also adapt the other bolt patterns this way). Edit, you want 33s... I'll narrow it down.

I saw the valve covers and thought "LS1 :brows: " but no, it's just an LT1. Kinda weird.

What's a plasma worth? I've not looked into it... But I think I want to invest in one eventually. I'd probably sawzall it or use a cutoff wheel. I prefer the sawzall if I can because I always seem to almost cut off my fingers with the angle grinder...

The ball-joint centre line points back towards the tcase. At least, it should. Raising the pinion up makes them vertical, and then pointing forwards. Vertical can be lived with (it won't WANT to recentre), pointing forwards is BAD (it'll want to not centre). As far as what comancheman did, it may or may not be alright. Drive it and see how it handles. The pinion angle should NOT be favoured over caster beyond the 0* (vertical) point. But, curving over the coils isn't a bad thing - it's just bad form.

Uh, NAPA sells the fittings... The standard ones at least. You just need to talk to a guy who knows the cataloges. If they're stupid about it, find a wholesaler and ask them - those guys are more likely to know things. And there's a local chain here (lordco) that sells both the metric and standard ones. And adapter fittings, and so on...

Somebody should try ordering some stuff and seeing if they actually do have it. They have the roll bars for both SWBs and LWBs for about $150. The bush guard for $80. And maybe some other factory options.

They're adjustable coil spacers. Basically a big threaded rod and a couple nuts. You crank the nut up and down to adjust ride heigt...

I don't think so.

Certainly not. Most people would have passed them over for the shipping price.

29" ride height is massive though... I'd probably try to raise the lower bracket too. Depending. How much suspension travel does it have?

What type?

The largest monroe will be about that... As long as you put a stud elminator bracket on the top end. Maybe.

With that cooling system, the resevoir is pressurized (much like more modern systems). If there is a leak ANYWHERE in the system - you will lose pressure and it will heat up far more rapidly. Typically those bottles get old and cracked, then they start to leak. Check it, and the cap. Check the hose connectors all over the place. Check the hoses too. Check there's no coolant in the oil (worst case scenario). And make sure she doesn't blow white smoke out of the tail-pipe. If it all checks out okay and the coolant level is still dropping.... then I'll be damned :nuts:

Help us first. Year? Engine? Stock? Sounds like you have a leak though :eek:

try to find a YJ slip yoke as they are a little longer and could help keep it from slipping out. Nope, and nope. Firstly, a drop kit of 1" is NOT going to help having too short of a driveshaft. It might band-aid it so you think it's alright - till you hammer on the throttle dragging the diff. Then you'll realize why $120 to have the driveshaft lengthened isn't so bad. Also, a drop kit tilts the whole drivetran. No big deal right? Well, the front yoke on the tcase is now pointing UP - towards your floor. The front driveshaft is shorter, and sees more articulation inherently due to the front pumpkin being offset and jeep's 5-link front. So, you'll possibly bind the front shaft and have LOTS of fun. And you also defeated the purpose of a lift with this mod. Now your belly is lower. And vulnerable. Secondly, the YJ slip-yoke is NO LONGER than a MJ/XJ one. It however has a deeper cut to the yoke allowing for a greater operating angle. Useful? Not really on a MJ with leaf springs and stock wheelbase, but if I didn't have a SYE I'd probably use one anyways.

$1000 will buy a lot of beer and junkyard parts.

That's amazing. The dealer wanted $106 for a coolant bottle - so I never talk to them.