DirtyComanche

AFAIK, yes, but all are the 5x5 bolt pattern. A guy could try using crown vic brake parts. They're easy to get and seem to bolt up to random things most of the time...

An XJ is 43.5" centre-centre, give or take a bit (they're metric.) And they are SOA. A MJ is 42" centre-centre and SUA.

The 6.2 will probably get better milage than a 2.5L... Or close, factoring the cheapness of diesel. Besides, it may be slow but you can haul things with them. My cummins gets better milage than my 4.0 cherokee.

I use lots of stuff... I've got a speed blaster, I don't use it much unless it's really weird. A 5" angle grinder with flap disks and wire brushes. A die grinder with sanding drums and a wire wheel (it's crazy with a wire wheel). And a wire wheel to go in my cordless/air drill. And lacquer thinner. Lots of it... I don't worry about prep being a problem.

I'm a prep nazi anyways. Even with the stick. Then I go help somebody weld something and it's like 'don't worry about the paint, it'll burn off' and they wonder why it looks like $#!&.

Ebay is evil. Like the crack cocaine :chillin:

To buy one locally is about the same price as a miller, near as I can tell. The selection has been lacking at the other stores. I have a lincoln tombstone, got nothing against lincoln. And job? What's that? :D

No worries... That quote included the bottle filled, and a pack of tips. I could talk him into some wire too, probably... I think for the extra money I should get the 180. I'll need the extra duty cycle if nothing else. I'm somewhat limited to what I can buy locally (or close) becuase shipping is such a b*@$£.

While it is possible, it would be way too much work. I had another renix intake which I used to check the feasability and basically it wasn't. The 4bbl pattern is WAY too big, unless you want to cut the entire middle area out of it and weld a new one in. Given I only have a stick welder (I want a mig, buuuut), I'd have to get it welded by somebody else. That costs $$$. I think I'm going to cut the dowels off the head and try. If not I might look into putting an AMC 258 head on a 4.0 block. God damnit.

Yeah, I'm converted, I think. I was at the local welding supply because well, I dunno. I gravitate towards those sort of places. Anyways, push came to shove and I started looking at their millermatics. MM140 is about 800 and the MM180 is like 920... Think I should pony up the extra 100 and change for the better one? Hmm... (I think I've got 1000 for the cherokee... hence, I'm going to buy a MIG) I might go and look at other places too.

They didn't hassle you at the border with that without papers?

She's a pretty old girl.

You can get a ratchet over it on my MJ. Do you have ABS or something stupid? There should be some clearance.

The driveshaft would need to pass through that x-member. I think this build has been going on a for a while because he's hit a few brick walls. Just judging by the rust and the state of everything. If he posts up we could get things sorted out.

Not quite. I've never actually seen a 1/4 elliptical that is like the one you are describing. But I have heard of it. With that setup you're combining the negatives of leaf springs with link suspnesion. Since you're still relying on a spring to locate the axle. In this setup the leafs are on a shackle at the axle (his it turned over and might need tweaking) and can move around however much they want. The links locate the axle.

Actually, it turns out there is a package for summit for me. It's my intake manifold... But, I gambled and lost. The 4.0 and 258 head design was NOT the same regarding the port placement. I should have gone and bought two intake gaskets to see for myself sometime BEFORE I ordered this thing. The difference was that the 258 ports are even LOWER than the 4.0 renix ones. I couldn't have believed that possible, but they are. Now, I think I can bolt the intake up in the correct position, providing that I change a few slight things. I'd have to either cut off the alignment nubs on the head, or cut the holes for them in the intake into slots. I don't know if this will cause the manifold to not seat correctly or anything of that nature. Or perhaps it will seat, but wiggle loose at some point? The intake is drilled for the P/S brackets, so that actually wasn't a problem. But if I do move it up, it may be. However, I think I can make some room in the mounts and deal with it... Not sure. I dunno. I gotta make this work. It's too late to go back.

You can break a D35 with just about anything. Locked or welded it really doesn't have a chance. And if you plan to drive it on the street, a welded rear sucks. But a welded front is worse.

I need parts! GAHHHHHHHHHH. Nothing ever shows up on time. Oh, and I decided to ditch the speedometer. Who cares.

For a quick rundown on propane, see this page... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 4&start=30 I briefly explained it. I have an offenhauser intake that is ment to put a 4BBL carb on an AMC 6er. The propane mixer is a 4bbl.

I've got a chevy HEI setup to go on for the disty. I don't like ford parts. And yeah, I've got all the gauges figured out AFAIK. The coolant one was throwing me off because of the other one... Apparently I live in the middle of nowhere, so I can't just order in some generic gauges and things like a nightswitch and dist drive gear. I love parts stores... The good news - I found a guy that does propane conversions and repairs that not only knows his stuff, but is nice enough to sell me rebuild kits for impco products at a great deal!

Welcome. :Canadaflag:

Looks like somebody got a good score. Jared, lose any skin off your face after doing that?

Well, with a little farther research, the dodge D60 might be a real pile. I have a 94 CTD, so I checked to see what the specs were on it... It has 30 spline 1.31" inners. The same as a D44. And 33 spline 1.34" outers. So, the 94 axle definatly isn't very good. However, they changed to a 32 spline inner and 33 spline outer setup in 98. So, if it was a 98 plus it might be worthwhile. However, with more searching I find that the carrier break is between 3.55 and 4.10, so I can't swap the 3.55 gears onto the newer carrier. However, most likely the only change they made to them was in the side gears, which would swap. So potentially I could use it to upgrade my tow rig. But nothing else seems worthwhile. The gains for using it in MJ aren't really there. It's a D60, and yeah, it's possibly stronger than a 30 spline (outer) chevy/ford one. But it's not a huge upgrade from my chromo'd D44.

Yeah... I'd hope he has a brace on the inside. If he does, it's a cool concept and execution. Actually, I might steal that idea even if he didn't do that.

It should. AFAIK it's the same as the one in the front of my 3/4t diesel. Just his axle has 4.10s and mine has 3.55s. The link moutns and coil buckets aren't useful though. Too bad 4.10 is too low for my diesel anyways. And not really low enough for the MJ... Sounds like he's got a chevy 14B with 4.10s that can go with it too... The problem is, I'd still rather have cash. I have 2 axles in my garage, 2 sets of extra axleshafts for one of them, and a bare housing outside. Dunnnoooo.