DirtyComanche

If nobody comes up with a good answer for you, I can tell you what I think it should be...

I never had a stock one that worked. They always just seemed weird and didn't do anything. Maybe I was doing something wrong. I carry a bottle jack instead, one of those slightly expensive ones. But not in the MJ. Well, I should but I don't. I always just use the hi-lift. And yes, I've dropped my truck with it more times than I can count.

Radiators would be brazed or soldered if they're brass. They could be if they're aluminum too - but I've never seen that.

What'd ya expect for $3-$10 for 120 fuses?

I did this a bit once... It's an amusing process. I really thought it had no practical application other than fixing brass things, or if you didn't know how to weld. But apparently it is actually strong? Despite not having any 'fusion' of the materials you can actually get a good enough bond with it that it'll produce a joint that is at least as strong as the materials to be joined? Does anybody actually braze anything structeral?

My flat-deck is 2x3x.188, and it's stupid heavy. I'm going to cut the back half off of it because of that... I'd recommend only using .120/.125 wall material at most. Unless you're planning to use it daily as a rockslider... In which case .188 makes more sense.

On the 89s they have a huge connector on the engine side of the firewall (it's actually 2 or 3 connectors, I guess) that you undo. Then you can remove the stuff in the way on inside and undo the fuse box... The exact specifics of how you're exactly supposed to do it are beyond me - mine had issues.

From the point of a fabricator, it'd probably not be worthwhile. It's often a lot easier to start from scratch and build everything to fit what you want, instead of trying to fit the factory. Maybe taking a short section of the origonal skins would be worthwhile to preserve the stock look. But not much else.

It depends how bad it is. If you clean it and it 'works' does that mean that it will continue to work? If I was to put money on it, long term you've probably got a major problem. The corrosion will continue all all of the terminals and any wiring that's been touched by it. Most likely it'll eventually fail. Either it'll just not work (good scenario) or it'll catch fire and destroy your truck. Honestly, I hate automotive electrical. It's all crap. The plugs are all random sizes and nothing is of very good quality. Anyways, the best bet would probably be to swap fuse boxes for one that's in better shape, and inspect any other of the wiring that could be affected. Which unfortuantly is pretty much all of it. Hence I got pissed off and rewired my truck.

The HD ones are so cheap now that's there's NO EXCUSE for getting a POS Hack'n'crap one. A driveshaft costs a bit. You can get a front driveshaft retubed/lengthened to get the job done. That's what mine is at least. I spent $120 on the retube, plus I provided a boneyard core ($30). Your prices will vary.

They're just like women... They need every bit of your stinking time or they freak out and blow up on you.

If they have a machine shop, they should. Most driveline shops don't balance shafts. They just chuck 'em on the lathe and shoot for about .010" runout (MAX) and call it balanced. Basically, if they have a decent lathe they can do it.

They're crappy tires. Really crappy tires. At least IMHO. You wheel soft mud and wattery mud, alright, they'll work. Providing you have enough power to keep them spinning fast enough. Throw ANY other condition in their and they SUCK. And they're bad news in snow too. Unless you're wheeling about 6-7" of wet snow on top of soft ground... Otherwise they'll just dig until you're laying frame. Or you'll have fun with them slipping over whatever is under the snow. They're too hard. They're ment to be TOUGH. Not to flex and conform to the shape of the traction media in a sub-5Klbs vehicle. All they did it set all your weight on a TINY contact pattern (a set of paddles) and typically you sink. Or go sideways. Or you get into something they can't sink into (wet logs, rock, stumps, etc) and they'll spin over it and make a stupid "thwap thwap thwap" noise. Typically they wait until you've got the tires going 50mph before one of them grabs something. Then you get to see how much inertia there is in your drivetrain.

Depends how it's equipped. Go to a scale for comercial transport (when it's closed would be best) and see for yourself. Mine weighs about 4000 without me in it. Or did. But it's not exactly stock. However, my 2wd LWB only weighed about 3400-3600 (can't quite remember, the scales are in Kg, which doesn't help.)

The straps stretch long before the u-joints fail. Typically the straps stretch and the u-joint starts to hammer back and forth and breaks. The bolts also stretch too, or just the strap stretching works them loose (not sure). I had mad problems with my front yoke doing this. A u-bolt yoke is better, but not perfect. Sometimes you can drill out your yoke to use these. There just has to be clearance on the back side of the yoke for the nuts to sit. Image Not Found (It's a kit, comes with the bolts and nuts) But I found I already had a u-bolt yoke in my junk pile: Image Not Found So I did that. A comparison of the two yokes: Image Not Found The top is the stocker. It can't be drilled as there isn't enough clearance for the nuts. You could probably grind it for that though. I wouldn't bother.

Speedo has probably piled up. Hurl the gage in a trash receptical and try another one. Cable drives are such a crap setup. Or is this an electrical one?

Apparently the TJ fronts are 100lbs/inch. I think my calculator is flawed. Wait, re-did them... 115. That's not good either. Anybody have the measurements for a stock XJ front? Or know? I always thought they were 130ish... But IDK. I can steal some from the boneyard at some point...

You'd need the axleshafts too. So, good luck with it... You'd be better off swapping in a complete axle at that point.

The isuzu D44 shouldn't be bad for aftermarket. AFAIK the axleshafts are a standard D44 type and you should be able to get chromo shafts for them (custom ones from blanks if nothing else). The internals are the same to other D44s, so there's no shortage of lockers or gear ratios.

The early 700R4s really sucked... The later ones weren't much better. If built decently, they'll hold 300HP without issues. And the gearing on them is FAR better than a th-350 or 400. I personally don't care much for th-350s. And the 400 is IMHO only marginally better in stock form. A LT1 with an agressive driver could destroy any of them...

If you go LT1... Plan on running a chevy tranny. I'd say built 700R4 for the money (spend $1000 on it at least, or it won't hold up to real world use). You can mate most common tcases to them (the 231 and 241 bing the typical choice) without spending big bucks. A friend of mine has one in his YJ. Well, had. It's actually still physically in the YJ, but it had an issue with a rod bearing, so it doesn't exactly run... Anyways, it's a good engine and the wiring harness is easy to work with. If you have the stock harness, it's pretty easy to wire into any other vehicle. Espeically a jeep as they run a GM colum. The opti-spark will commit suicide if exposed to water. MSD makes an upgraded dist. for it that solves MOST of that, IIRC it's about $600. You'll probably want some block-hugger headers, or the oldschool vett cast headers - or you will have clearance issues. You'll want a fuel pump out of a GM truck with a vortec V8 to provide enough fuel for it (the camaro ones are over-priced but the exact same part). You'll also need some serious radiator as they make a lot of heat. The stock camaro one is hard to work with as it has to be mounted at a layed back angle or it won't flow right (or so it seems). However, a large enough aftermarket radiator should be found. Make sure you do this right - heat will kill these engines. You'll want it to be aluminum, and 3-core. Also, the P/S pump on these engines sucks (it's not for a truck...) and you can't really change it (other than PSC's pump). Dunno what else to say. They're tough engines. His had sucked mud and water a bunch of times, and been run at over 280* at least 7 times, and it had about 100K on it when he got it. Not to mention being run on its side without oil pressure more than once... Which was what finially did it in, well, along with a pegged temperature gauge. Edit... You might consider a rear mount rad. If you're racing it, that shouldn't be a problem. I run one and am happy with it. It's an easy enough thing to do if you have sorces for the needed parts.

I can get another set of XJ coils if I have too. I picked up the TJ fronts today. And buddy still had my ZJ fronts lying there - I can take them back if I need them. However, the TJ ones look liek they'll be really close. Dunno. Might have to play around with getting the actual weight on them to see. But I can do the math first. And I'd make my mounts adjustable, but that always comes out hack unless you have a lathe to cut threads (like the ACOS have). I do have access to a lathe, but I'm not into bothering. I'll just tack everthing on the first time and see. On another note, my truck sits way higher in the front. I'd better figure out how to link it too.

I don't think any came with vent windows. Eagle would know. However, the vent triangles from the XJ are a direct swap. Long as it doesn't rain too much where you are - they get kinda leaky. Line locks are good... Unless they leak.

No. They're $45 out the door for me. The JJs are more though. $65 and tax. Whatever. They have a shank and come with a jam nut (for that price).

The TJ coils should be lighterish, sorta. The ZJ coils used to be mine - they're rather heavy. I was going to run the math on their rate when I got them back. See where they sit. I think the TJs are only 170~, but IDK. The stock XJ fronts would probably have worked great. Too bad I gave away my set of those too. Too bad I don't have more space for crap. I could horde all my parts forever.