DirtyComanche

I'm starting to get cabin fever... I'm stuck 'up north'. And we aren't working at all... There is 6 choppers sitting. We did an inspection on the one 20 hours early because we had NOTHING else to do. I spent half of my '8 hour' working day hiding, and the other half of it building special tools that I probably won't need anytime. Then they told me they want me to stay another day so I can get some 'sleep management' training or something. I think I'm doing pretty good at sleeping with the lax work schedule.

Well, no, not really... I have a NP241D out of a cummins truck to swap in instead of the 231. May or may not work. And that's about it. But, if it does work, it should fit the bill fairly well. Basically I've been screwed with work. I'm 'on tour', and I was only working 10 hour days... Well, that fell apart and I'm down to 8 hour days. Which is NOTHING. I need a week and a half straight off before I will even bother to go back south to work on this thing. Yet, I can't burn all the over-time (or go negative, not that my company cares as long as I'm even at the end of the year) because I need the over-time payout to go to my 'buying a house whenever I find one I like and that I feel financially secure enough to do so' fund.

That's awesome... But maybe only because I have a Sierra myself (truck, not a daughter...)

Factory thing for early automatics... Just plays with how the tranny shifts.

There is 2 plugs on the rear of the case. Lower is drain, upper is fill, should be filled to the bottom of the upper plug.

And how did that go? I see them out in the wild every now and then, but generally I steer clear... I imagine they might be cute and cuddly, but I kinda doubt it...

There's lots of junk like that around where I work... They also have ones that don't have augers, but big brushes in them instead. I don't know what the reasoning is, but they go out when its only light snow, I guess it cleans ALL of the snow off the runway. Of course, for us, we always just dig the machines out by hand. Its not like we have to clear a runway for a helicopter. Oh, and rotary snowplows are pretty cool. I've seen lots of pictures of them chewing through snow deeper than they are tall.

Well, the 2.8 is really slow. Things to consider: -Engine width, praticularily with the headers (or exhaust manifolds and downpipes) installed. Typically, you can't make anything fit but the stock manifolds, or in some cases block hugger headers. Oh, watch the driveshaft and oil pan clearance - a 4.0L is installed 2" to the passenger side to help with this, but you WON'T have the space to do that with a V8. -Engine height, with whatever gizmos go on top (carb, EFI, etc) and the oil pan you plan to use. You might not clear the hood, unless you sit it right down (or run a cowl hood) and you might not clear the oil pan. -Cooling. The V8 needs more radiator, no way around it. Guys have used 4.0L rads with SBCs, but I think they're asking for trouble if they really drive it. The avaliable space for a larger rad is not so avaliable. I've seen a WJ steering box used to allow for a taller rad that sits between the frame rails. I would probably go that route, as I think a 'standard' sized rad will then fit. -Clearance for accessories. Jeepcomj had to do some hacking to make his 3.8 with A/C fit, which I don't think he would do over again. Lots of truck engines will mount the accessories all over the damn place because they had plenty of room in the factory install. And on some V8s you might find the starter is in a bad place. Anything else? Well, not that I know. I know a bit more for a SBC swap. They've been done and documented. I think there is a 318 swap or two on NAXJA. Personally, I don't consider a V8 swap to be ideal for MOST usage of THESE trucks. A V8 is fine in my 76 K25, I can carry over 160L of fuel, and it is a full size/heavy truck. I think a smaller (better) V6 is more ideal for a MJ simply to keep things light, keep the fuel consumption to a reasonable level, and leave enough space under the hood to keep things easy. If its a hardcore wheeler, I could see throwing an aluminum V8 in. Hardcore mudder, sure, whatever V8 you want (mud trucks don't need to be fancy, that'd be a real waste). Track? V8, you could work with whatever but again aluminum would be best. DD? I6 (4.0) or V6 (3.8 or similar, shortstars are kinda cool too).

There is no other filters, but there is a pump. I don't think it'll blow through that. I wanted to change all the lines, but I need some time to do that. And as it is, I think I will wreck the lines if I try to undo them from the pump. I might just throw it back together and get it running for now. I'm half tempted to rebuilt the quadrajet, since it would appear that it had water sitting in the float bowl. I would assume this will cause problems down the road. The POR setup looks good. Might go that route...

On an older, mid 70s GM with saddle tanks, but hey, it would still apply if it happened to a MJ... It quit. Pulled the fuel filter, rust, water, a little gas... So, dropped the tanks. The right tank was half full of water, and about 1/8 of gasoline, and a bunch of skuzz and $#!&. The tank was new (about 6 months), and has started to develope some rust on the inside... The other tank had some water, but not much (enough that it was picking it up intermittantly). Anyways, so I dropped both tanks and emptied them as much as possible. They still aren't as clean as I'd like. Short of trying to snake my arm in there to wipe them, is there a good option for cleaning? Are any of the avaliable gas tank coatings worthwhile? For the rest of the fuel system, I put some clean fuel in a cup and put the pickup hoses in it, then cranked the motor over (mechanical pump) with the fuel line off the carb until I got clean fuel out. Anything else I should do? The filter is on the inlet of the quadrajunk, and I don't know how much $#!& got through it to the inards of the carb. Short of a rebuild, is there anything else that should or could be done? Or just let it be? Ugh.

'Needs more triangulation'. There's a reason why that was a popular phrase on pirate for a long time. Lots of people build things that aren't going to do much of anything in a roll over.

It's the same on a 4.oh, really. The plug for it comes off the injector harness near the back of the head, and it runs straight down and over a bitsy to the driver's side top of the bellhousing. I had a melted one. It didn't melt through though. Another one the wires broke. I'm not sure WHAT I did that caused that. Since the driveline shouldn't move around enough for it to get cut or pulled apart. Ohwell.

My grandfather was. But I didn't really understand who, or what, the masons were until after he had passed away. Not that I fully understand, because I guess you have to be there for that.

A 'blend door' blends ambient (outside) air with air that has passed through the heater core (or evaporator core). If it is stuck open, it will be cold. No way around it. If you get 190* on the rad hose and heater hoses, that is okay. If you get 70* on the lower rad hose, also okay. My reasoning is, with a 195* stat that is accurate to a couple percentages, and given rubber is a decent insulator, 190* should be fine for the hot side. Since the lower (cold) hose is quite cold in comparison with the upper (70*, of course I have no idea what your ambient temp is), this is also a good sign as it means not TOO much coolant is passing through the rad or you would see a much smaller spread between the temps. Also, 190* on the heater core hoses verifys that the heater core is hot.

No, they should survive... It's just an open diff, basically... Or so I believe. The FSM doesn't really spell out the operation of the unit, but 'full differential' means open diff to me. And looking at the diagrams, I can only reason it operates as one. But, I've never done the touchy-feely thing where I pulled one apart to see how everything moves. I only ever had on NP242, and it never broke so I didn't touch it.

Yeah, I'd like one of those if I could easily get one...

I read a book about that, called 'Influence, Science and Practice' By Dr Robert D Caldini (think I got that all right) and would recommend it if you're interested in the subject. He spelled out the phenomenon fairly well, and why people think that way. Mostly I read the book because its great for dealing with salesmen.

Some people just don't have a clue... Honestly... That's when you offer to put the car back where it was. :nuts: I look at everything on a risk basis. If it's not going to cause me any harm, or burn up excessive amounts of time, I'll give a hand where I can. I haven't pulled anyone out of the ditch this year, but that's mostly because I haven't run into anyone I could actually recover. They all either screwed up bad enough that they needed a wrecker anyways, or had already left. What annoyed me (more after the fact, than at the time) was on my last trip south, I wound up witnessing a fatal accident. I was only about 800 yards back when a girl attempting to pass a line of traffic and wound up head-on-ing a guy coming the other way. Just an all around $#!&ty situation. The people she was trying to pass (there was a passing lane, FWIW) just kept going. I was thinking about it later, and she was easily far enough along side the one vehicle that they could obviously see her lose control and hit the other guy... None of them stopped. I was there for about 5 minutes before anybody came along the other way - luckily they stopped (2 people in one vehicle). Soon after a bunch of people came from the direction I was heading, and I don't think any of them stopped... And it was an obviously BAD accident scene, and it was obvious that 3 people were not enough to deal with it.

I have a diagram that shows where they are... But it is easier for me to jsut explain it. There's 4 near the front (cab area), 2 on each side. Look on top of the frame there, you will see the bed mount structure above the frame. Then there's two through the big X-member near the back (behind the axle), more towards the centre of the bed. Then there is two more at the very end of the frame, near where the bumper bolts on. Very easy.

If it uses solid joints (heims) on the linkage, any driveline vibration will be transmitted through it.

Yikes... As I sit here eating my double chocolate muffin (okay, it's really more like a giant cupcake) for lunch. Best of luck bud, I'm sure you'll pull through it all.

You know the funny thing about that... I have NEVER heard anyone use that term, save a few instances on the intraweb. I had no idea what it ment, at all. :nuts: And to me, 'cajun' is a type of tater-tot.

Well, it's a 4spd auto (47RH) out of a 94... It's definatly 23 spline. I counted twice, and confirmed it... I had thought they might have changed the pressure angles on the splines eventually. If you say it was in 97, that will save me... But I should look into it.

Diesels are a lot of fun in the cold... Anyways, I have a few ideas. The worst would be it was started cold previously, and now has spun bearings. With my dodge, and most diesels (especially with glow plugs), you can get them to 'light off' with very minimal pre-heating, just it takes about 2 minutes before you'll have any oil pressure. The result can be lots of spun bearings. And often it will just show up as too slow of crank to start, or no crank at all. Buddy of mine is a HD... When we had the last cold snap he was changing engines like crazy from people starting them without enough preheating. Most of the customers would phone up saying they though the starter was bad, or it cranked super slow... Otherwise, I'd say stupid electrical issue (ground?), or it is just too cold. Fuel gelling shouldn't be your issue - the slow crank is. And honestly, you guys must get crappy fuel for it to gel bad at that temperature.

Cool, SD33T swap.