DirtyComanche

As far as the towing company goes, I honestly would phone them and say "Hey, you know the truck isn't worth $500. I will pay you for the tow, but not the impound fees. That way you at least get your cost out of it." Or something like that. Here the tow yards have lots of vehicles that aren't worth a thing that they can't sell for anything because they don't have the title.

The HD SYE kits are stronger than stock. 32 spline output vs a 27. Most of the driveshafts you would have built are stronger than stock, especially if you go with a Tom woods or JE Reel or that 1tonCV guy (forget his company name). Do you need the strength? Depends on how hard you are on it.

Thanks!

A long time ago somebody sent me a link for the metric fittings to use on an AW4 to delete the quick disconnects. They were a metric to AN fitting. That was a laptop or two back in time, so I've lost the link. I think Summit or Jegs sold them. Anyone have any ideas? I hate the quick disconnects with a passion.

I could fix that. But I wouldn't. That cab has a lot more rust that has been bondo'd over. I bet if you took it to a blaster there wouldn't be much left. Now if somebody wanted to make a truggy, it would be a sorta good starting point. Basically short of doing something that involves cutting off and trashing everything from the bump in the cab/doors and below, then rebuilding with tube, it is not worth anything other than to part it out.

I'm not sure if it works on those anyways. I had a 97 with ABS. It never did a thing. I know that era of Dodge 3/4 ton trucks it doesn't do anything either.

How much did you pay?

They go for the same price as the 4L ones here. So I won't touch them. They are few and far between, I suspect most of their owners died of boredom before getting to their intended destination.

I suppose it is a generational thing. It isn't the fact they shipped me a part that didn't look at all like the OEM part it was supposed to replace that upset me. Mistakes happen. What upset me was the way they blew me off after I notified them that the part wasn't correct. People of my generation don't tolerate that kind of attitude. You didn't phone them, did you? Because when I phoned them and explained my situation they were super accommodating. Once I realized their online return thing didn't do what I wanted I called, problem resolved in 2 minutes.

Sounds like it's worth $100-200... I hate buying stuff without papers.

Somebody on another forum told me the TBI does not use an IAT, I'm hoping he will explain what fuel injection setups did use it. Either way the above P/Ns should work without needing an application, and it has been in production for a long time so it should be available without issue.

A 1999 won't have a D44 from the factory. There is a high probability that it is an 8.25" though.

What Eagle says, listen to him.

Yes. There is some differences in the floor. The body isn't as rigid though, the B pillar location on the 4dr is better for that. The door hinges and strikers really like to crack, and around the vents in the door opening. Not a big deal but its something to look for.

It's also the same sensor GM used from about 1985-1995, maybe even more years, on anything with any sort of EFI. Basically, it's a bread and butter sensor. Actually, it looks like even LSx applications use it, so it's probably still being installed in GM products that roll off the assembly line as I type. Edit, the above GM P/N is a good P/N and matches what it should... Again, I don't have one in hand, and haven't tried it, but it looks like it should work.

Might be: (unverified) GM #25036751 Standard AX1 GP SORENSEN 779-19001 AC DELCO 213-190 NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 was DR-136W WELLS SU107 MSD 2320 (includes connector) It's the same sensor that Megasquirt uses, you can buy one from DIYautotune also.

I don't find 2drs to be that rare. I'm sure I'm wrong, but it seems they all came with manual transmissions. Which is why I wound up build a 4dr XJ this last go around. The body cracks worse on them than 4drs. It's not as rigid. It's probably worth $500-900 in that shape. I paid $500 for the last 2dr I bought. $100 for the last 4dr. There was some cherry 2drs for $1500-2000 (asking) when I went looking for another XJ.

Right on.

I did mine with the same size on both... The ones I pulled out, and every set I've ever pulled, were all the same size. As said, use lube. Vaseline or DC-4 are my go to, but light oil would be fine, or Crisco if you're trying to relive the 70s.

I can't see imagines because this internet connection blocks everything... But as I said, the D44 can't turn (well, it CAN) nearly the angle a D30 or D60 does, since from the factory the stops are set out quite a bit farther. I'd have to look it up, but IIRC it's about 10* less, which is significant. You may fit those tires fine, but IMHO being able to steer tighter is worth going a little wider for. YMMV, all scenarios are different, warranty is 30 seconds or 30 feet, and this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. Personally I'd be pretty upset with myself if I bought RCVs and then didn't pull as much steering out of them as I could, since one of the great things about them is they're still strong when operating at realistic steering angles.

Bumping this because I believe I have found a much easier solution. I have not tried it, but all the info I could find indicates that it is either the same, or really close to the Renix sensor. It's probably closer than the custom one in this thread, or as close as any jobber version of these sensors is VS an OEM one. GM TBI/early EFI sensor values: http://gafieroclub.org/pics/pip/ctsmatchartpp3.jpg (Not sure if that will load, I would just photobucket it but I am on some useless hotel internet that blocks photobucket) Anyways, they're the same. You will need to do the same pigtail mod. However, this sensor can be found pretty much anywhere and is cheap. If I have time I will pick one up and see if I can verify that it works.

It's aftermarket. I mentioned earlier that I think it only would fit the 99+ intake correctly, as it appears to be a clone of a Banks header listed for that. It was listed as fitting 91+, so I gambled that it would fit a Renix. It didn't, at all. I'm still undecided. The port misalignment offends me. I may start looking for a good 7120 head. But where do you stop? If I pull the head I bet I'll wind up honing the cylinders and then it will spiral into rebuilding the whole thing. Maybe I had better just bolt it back together and move on.

Yes. Passenger drop stuff. Because all you wind up doing is throwing the tires on wheels with very little backspacing so they clear the control arms/fenders/frame, or turn the steering stops out. Conveniently the D44 has the steering stops out from the factory, you can't turn one nearly as tight as a D30, D60, etc. IMHO I'd rather go with a wider axle, and run wheels with more backspacing, which keeps the scrub radius where it should be, and then do what you can to make it steer as tight as possible. Sometimes you have to accept that you're going to need to add a slight extension to the fender flare and run a little wider track width. Also the reason I like the Yukon hubs is they aren't as thick as many, and the dial/housing isn't plastic, so you can get away with running a wheel with more backspacing without smashing them to bits. For a D44 I think I'd be a fan of the 65" or so width of certain F-150s, IIRC. Then run a 8 or 9" wheel with 5-5.5" backspacing. Also, if you move up to a D50 or D60, it isn't easy to fit coil buckets and control arm brackets on the axle if it is narrowed down to 61"~, since the inner Cs are so massive compared with smaller axles. I left my D60 as it was and do not regret it a bit, scrub radius is perfect and I can get lock to lock without having moved the stops and it just barely clears the control arms/frame with wide 37s. Don't use those. They are bad. 5x4.5 is a useless pattern in the long run, and I would pick another pattern and find a rear to match. You can't build a D44 hub and fit the 5x4.5 pattern on it without it being a garbage setup, there just isn't the space. The Wagoneer axles that people tend to use are 6x5.5. It's not a bad pattern as there is a lot of wheels that fit it, and some good rear end options. 8x6.5" is better in the long run, IMHO, and there's various ways you can do that on a D44 (GM 3/4 ton parts are the easiest to find). 5x5.5 is also easy, using Ford parts. Either way, I feel you're better off using standard parts, rather than redrilling hubs and rotors.

I'll have to look at Street Side Auto myself, if they have a better shipping method when it comes to Canadian customers, I am very much into that...

I always put very clearly how I intend to be contacted. IE, I will write on the bottom of the ad "Please contact me by text message or email, but if you wish to call I am not always able to answer, so leave your name and number and that it's about this ad and I will get back to you." The scammers are easy to spot. They want to Western Union the money to me. Nope, not happening. Or they want to Paypal it. Again, nope. Anyone that actually wants to buy something will have cash. They might not want to talk on the phone, but I'm not shipping it, so they will be coming to see me. Big purchases are easy, we meet at THEIR bank. They write me the cheque, and I have it verified right there and cashed or held. I will also accept email transfers in Canada, since they can not be called back once the funds are transferred, normally I only use this for selling firearms (which I will ship). 90% of scammers also follow the same form letter, either sent by email or text. I ignore them.