DirtyComanche

I'm not sure if it works on those anyways. I had a 97 with ABS. It never did a thing. I know that era of Dodge 3/4 ton trucks it doesn't do anything either.

How much did you pay?

They go for the same price as the 4L ones here. So I won't touch them. They are few and far between, I suspect most of their owners died of boredom before getting to their intended destination.

I suppose it is a generational thing. It isn't the fact they shipped me a part that didn't look at all like the OEM part it was supposed to replace that upset me. Mistakes happen. What upset me was the way they blew me off after I notified them that the part wasn't correct. People of my generation don't tolerate that kind of attitude. You didn't phone them, did you? Because when I phoned them and explained my situation they were super accommodating. Once I realized their online return thing didn't do what I wanted I called, problem resolved in 2 minutes.

Sounds like it's worth $100-200... I hate buying stuff without papers.

Somebody on another forum told me the TBI does not use an IAT, I'm hoping he will explain what fuel injection setups did use it. Either way the above P/Ns should work without needing an application, and it has been in production for a long time so it should be available without issue.

A 1999 won't have a D44 from the factory. There is a high probability that it is an 8.25" though.

What Eagle says, listen to him.

Yes. There is some differences in the floor. The body isn't as rigid though, the B pillar location on the 4dr is better for that. The door hinges and strikers really like to crack, and around the vents in the door opening. Not a big deal but its something to look for.

It's also the same sensor GM used from about 1985-1995, maybe even more years, on anything with any sort of EFI. Basically, it's a bread and butter sensor. Actually, it looks like even LSx applications use it, so it's probably still being installed in GM products that roll off the assembly line as I type. Edit, the above GM P/N is a good P/N and matches what it should... Again, I don't have one in hand, and haven't tried it, but it looks like it should work.

Might be: (unverified) GM #25036751 Standard AX1 GP SORENSEN 779-19001 AC DELCO 213-190 NIEHOFF IGNITION TS83631 was DR-136W WELLS SU107 MSD 2320 (includes connector) It's the same sensor that Megasquirt uses, you can buy one from DIYautotune also.

I don't find 2drs to be that rare. I'm sure I'm wrong, but it seems they all came with manual transmissions. Which is why I wound up build a 4dr XJ this last go around. The body cracks worse on them than 4drs. It's not as rigid. It's probably worth $500-900 in that shape. I paid $500 for the last 2dr I bought. $100 for the last 4dr. There was some cherry 2drs for $1500-2000 (asking) when I went looking for another XJ.

Right on.

I did mine with the same size on both... The ones I pulled out, and every set I've ever pulled, were all the same size. As said, use lube. Vaseline or DC-4 are my go to, but light oil would be fine, or Crisco if you're trying to relive the 70s.

I can't see imagines because this internet connection blocks everything... But as I said, the D44 can't turn (well, it CAN) nearly the angle a D30 or D60 does, since from the factory the stops are set out quite a bit farther. I'd have to look it up, but IIRC it's about 10* less, which is significant. You may fit those tires fine, but IMHO being able to steer tighter is worth going a little wider for. YMMV, all scenarios are different, warranty is 30 seconds or 30 feet, and this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. Personally I'd be pretty upset with myself if I bought RCVs and then didn't pull as much steering out of them as I could, since one of the great things about them is they're still strong when operating at realistic steering angles.

Bumping this because I believe I have found a much easier solution. I have not tried it, but all the info I could find indicates that it is either the same, or really close to the Renix sensor. It's probably closer than the custom one in this thread, or as close as any jobber version of these sensors is VS an OEM one. GM TBI/early EFI sensor values: http://gafieroclub.org/pics/pip/ctsmatchartpp3.jpg (Not sure if that will load, I would just photobucket it but I am on some useless hotel internet that blocks photobucket) Anyways, they're the same. You will need to do the same pigtail mod. However, this sensor can be found pretty much anywhere and is cheap. If I have time I will pick one up and see if I can verify that it works.

It's aftermarket. I mentioned earlier that I think it only would fit the 99+ intake correctly, as it appears to be a clone of a Banks header listed for that. It was listed as fitting 91+, so I gambled that it would fit a Renix. It didn't, at all. I'm still undecided. The port misalignment offends me. I may start looking for a good 7120 head. But where do you stop? If I pull the head I bet I'll wind up honing the cylinders and then it will spiral into rebuilding the whole thing. Maybe I had better just bolt it back together and move on.

Yes. Passenger drop stuff. Because all you wind up doing is throwing the tires on wheels with very little backspacing so they clear the control arms/fenders/frame, or turn the steering stops out. Conveniently the D44 has the steering stops out from the factory, you can't turn one nearly as tight as a D30, D60, etc. IMHO I'd rather go with a wider axle, and run wheels with more backspacing, which keeps the scrub radius where it should be, and then do what you can to make it steer as tight as possible. Sometimes you have to accept that you're going to need to add a slight extension to the fender flare and run a little wider track width. Also the reason I like the Yukon hubs is they aren't as thick as many, and the dial/housing isn't plastic, so you can get away with running a wheel with more backspacing without smashing them to bits. For a D44 I think I'd be a fan of the 65" or so width of certain F-150s, IIRC. Then run a 8 or 9" wheel with 5-5.5" backspacing. Also, if you move up to a D50 or D60, it isn't easy to fit coil buckets and control arm brackets on the axle if it is narrowed down to 61"~, since the inner Cs are so massive compared with smaller axles. I left my D60 as it was and do not regret it a bit, scrub radius is perfect and I can get lock to lock without having moved the stops and it just barely clears the control arms/frame with wide 37s. Don't use those. They are bad. 5x4.5 is a useless pattern in the long run, and I would pick another pattern and find a rear to match. You can't build a D44 hub and fit the 5x4.5 pattern on it without it being a garbage setup, there just isn't the space. The Wagoneer axles that people tend to use are 6x5.5. It's not a bad pattern as there is a lot of wheels that fit it, and some good rear end options. 8x6.5" is better in the long run, IMHO, and there's various ways you can do that on a D44 (GM 3/4 ton parts are the easiest to find). 5x5.5 is also easy, using Ford parts. Either way, I feel you're better off using standard parts, rather than redrilling hubs and rotors.

I'll have to look at Street Side Auto myself, if they have a better shipping method when it comes to Canadian customers, I am very much into that...

I always put very clearly how I intend to be contacted. IE, I will write on the bottom of the ad "Please contact me by text message or email, but if you wish to call I am not always able to answer, so leave your name and number and that it's about this ad and I will get back to you." The scammers are easy to spot. They want to Western Union the money to me. Nope, not happening. Or they want to Paypal it. Again, nope. Anyone that actually wants to buy something will have cash. They might not want to talk on the phone, but I'm not shipping it, so they will be coming to see me. Big purchases are easy, we meet at THEIR bank. They write me the cheque, and I have it verified right there and cashed or held. I will also accept email transfers in Canada, since they can not be called back once the funds are transferred, normally I only use this for selling firearms (which I will ship). 90% of scammers also follow the same form letter, either sent by email or text. I ignore them.

OEM Spicer gearsets are better quality than the standard consumer grade gears, and will have been set up correctly. I don't think you can easily regear a D30 to 4.10 for less than $400. Even Yukon gears, install kit, carrier, will be more than that by a fair amount. If you wanted to install a full case locker, I would say it makes no sense, since you would need to do a whole setup anyways... If you're just looking to stick the axle in and go, while it might not be a bargain, it's still cheaper than other options, and there is minimal hassle. You also could install all your new wear parts on the axle at your leisure, then install it as a whole fresh assembly. But I'd wait and see if he will come down. Or if you know somebody local to him, have them swing by (don't tell him you sent them, have them contact themselves) with $200 in nice crisp 20s and see if it makes it happen. One problem is it can be hard to determine if a gearset is any good or not on a pulled axle. I remember tearing down a D44 that appeared to be in very nice shape, gears looked very good, all the bearings were happy and not scored or pitted... But one of the slinger rings or shims in it (I don't remember) had come loose and machined the pinion down to about 1/2 thickness, basically just cut a nice thin little groove in it all the way around. Had the axle actually been stressed it would have very easily snapped, as the pinion was only 3/4" diameter at that point, and since it was cut sharply it was now a major stress riser. It's rare, but things can go wrong that are not easy to see just by pulling the cover and taking a look.

Price is high unless it is in very good shape. If it is 'As pulled' I bet the ball joints, u-joints, and wheel bearings all need to be replaced, and the hubs might be worn or of an inferior design. Most of the D44 aftermarket hubs aren't much good, IMHO the only thing worth running at this point is the Yukon Hardcore ones, unless somebody else has cloned them. No brake calipers is a bummer, and no steering isn't helping even if you were unlikely to reuse it. I would try to pay less. It probably has 3.07 gears also. Realistically you're going to dump $1000 into that axle, maybe more, to make it into something decent. Personally I do not recommend or endorse staying at the factory-ish axle width for tires any larger than 35". What are your plans?

No, there isn't. You would want to use it if you had the HO head, since the ports would align properly. Just bolting it onto a Renix, I do not see how you wouldn't lose power. The ports are so badly misaligned that you're going to see a 20%~ reduction in area, with a massive turbulence inducing 'ski jump' on the bottom and a large blocked section at the top. Unless I port the head I doubt I am seeing any improvement with this, even though I now have gone to the large HO throttle body, and did some port matching to try to minimize the ski jump on the bottom of the port. The reason I swapped to it is because the header I bought didn't actually clear the Renix intake. It looked okay dry fitting things against the old gasket on the floor, but in actual practice the rear tube was hitting badly on the rear intake runner. I missed it because I was more concerned with the flanges fitting, which was what is normally the problem when using a HO header on a Renix. Even the HO intake didn't actually fit and had to be ground a bit. I did some more poking around and it seems this header is actually a clone of one meant to be used on 99+ applications, where the intake then changed again. Unfortunately I modded the header (added an O2 sensor, changed the flange to a V-band) and then built the entire exhaust system around it, otherwise I would have sent it back to the seller with a nastygram. The real pain with this is that I can't locate a TV cable for a reasonable price, so I'm going to make the Renix one work. Also I just bought a brand new Renix throttle cable, which is now going to be taken off and put on the shelf... Then I get to mess around adapting the fuel lines, TPS, add the intake temp sensor, etc, etc.

Moving a trailer with a front hitch is super easy. My plow truck was set up with one, since the plow attached to it, and I would use it if I needed to get the trailer in and out of the shop since it was way easier to tell if you had the trailer where you wanted it. Then I destroyed my plow and built a new mount, so the front hitch isn't as useful now.

And it has lasted without issues?