Andy in Pa

I have done the other two ground wiring mods, and have the relays around here (from other projects) to do this headlight circuit. Have the circuit drawn and everything, just didn't have time to build it. Just ordered this instead. Can't build it for that price. That is actually more affordable than building it myself. Thanks for the reminder!!

Ok, thanks!!

I was going to build my own circuit for this, but doing it this way would be WAAYY easier. I clicked on that link though, and it looks like the one linked up is not compatible?? Am I missing something?

Do you mean when pulling the center shaft out of the carrier on the D30? If so, its either a roll pin which needs to be tapped out with a punch, or a threaded pin that will have a allen head or torx head to loosen. This looks like a roll pin, so tapping it out with a punch should do the trick.

You may not want to use the front axle from the 98 5spd XJ, unless your using the rear as well. That axle is probably 3.08 gears. Pretty much any axle out of an "automatic" XJ from 99 down to 95 would be better. Are you swapping the 5spd and center console to the MJ? If not, I would be interested in the 5spd shifter boot that mounts into the console.

Agreed with Krusty... I looked at doing this about 10 years ago, and its easier to start with bare steel and make your own. Or save up and buy a set meant for MJ's. The rear of the frame flares out a good bit right at the back of the cab, which throws the XJ rails way off for fitment. Also, they are really short for even a short bed MJ. A.

No I didn't try that, because I did not have the spare parts to repair it if I broke something in that process. I have also never heard of anyone doing that before. I spent some time researching it too, thinking that I may be able to do that. Has anyone done this? It didn't look like it came apart easily enough to just increase this spring tension.

I got the spring at Lowes out of their spring drawer. Didn't modify it at all. I'll see if I can get a pic of the bag it came in. I drilled both holes. Had to open up the hole in the bracket to be able to slip the spring end through. The hole in the triangle bracket I just drilled to 3/16" Its still working great too. Logged about 400 miles on the MJ since I did this.

It will have an impact on how long your track bar TRE and bracket survives. At 6" of lift, it puts quite a load on the track bar when offroad. I simply tell everyone that you can save money on the control arms, the springs as well as shocks, but don't pinch pennies when it comes to the track bar setup. Its a critical piece of front suspension, and can mean the difference in getting your Jeep home safely at the end of a day of wheeling, and calling AAA and getting it towed. A large part of the death wobble problems people have with XJ's, ZJ's, WJ's and MJ's is because of a slightly loose track bar. Also FYI... I have been able to drive my Jeep home after breaking front shafts, driveshafts, brakelines, bending the steering, (turns out a high lift is good for something on the trails, slipping the handle over the tie rod to keep it from bending again).... But track bar issues usually mean either a very slow drive home, or being on the back of a flat bed.

If you are doing a 6" lift, then go with the Iron Rock Offroad kit someone linked up. A track bar in double shear is a much better setup with that much lift. You'll spend a bit more now, but it will be better in the long run.

So I have been dealing with a high idle problem for a while on my 89 Comanche, 4.0L 5spd. Throttle body is VERY fresh, even bored out, IAC is clean, and seems to function fine, there are NO vacuum leaks, (all of the non-critical vacuum fittings are plugged, including the EGR), TPS is set, re-set and checked again. My problem has been that the throttle body does not QUITE close all the way when decelerating slowly, and it will hang up at a point (usually between 1000 and 1500 rpm) as the idle goes down. If I just pop the throttle and rev it up slightly, it closes all the way. I disconnected all the throttle linkage and removed the linkage plate. Problem went away... TB closes fully even if I try to hang it up by closing it slowly while running. Let it idle for a while, tried it again, still worked fine. My linkage (which seems to be moving VERY smoothly, even without greasing) seems to be putting enough drag on the TB that it wasn't allowing the TB to close fully. I decided to fix this in a way that I would never have to worry about it again. I greased everything REALLY good, including the pivot linkage piece on that plate THEN added a very light throttle return spring mounted to the linkage plate. This works great, with the added benefit of giving the gas pedal a slightly firmer and more exact feel. I did not try just greasing the linkage before this, but truth be told, my linkage was moving quite freely, so in this case I don't think it would have helped. I got the return spring out of the "Springs" drawer at a local Lowes. It remains to be seen if the heat will affect the spring, but I can't imagine that it will.

I used 96 Cherokee 2 door seatbelts in mine. Bolted right into my 89 MJ with no problems.

X2 Its tough to understand what shaft bearing your talking about. Pics would help. Might have to pull another bracket form the junkyard though. Sounds like it might be tweaked, or belt tension is too tight. A.

I could only find a chrome set on Amazon, so I roughed them up with a little light sand paper and painted them flat black. Look perfect!!

Ok, mine definitely does not have a relay in that location. I was just hoping it was not somehow behind the headlight or along the front of the rad support or something. No worries setting up the fog lights, I was just attempting to use factory parts if they existed on my MJ. I have the lighted factory switch and the harness at the dash, so I will be setting it up using them. I built a relay circuit for my electric fan control as well. I have it on a factory lighted switch, and can turn it on whenever things get too hot under the hood.. If it needs to come on automatically, the relay will override the switch and run it as well.

Hey all, I am looking for a bit of help setting up the factory fog light switch / wiring. I have the switch, plug and all on the dash, and am trying to find the relay for it. I am assuming the plugs for the lights are under the front end too, but have not gone in search of them yet. I do not see the physical relay on any of the wiring diagrams from the FSM. It shows the wiring/plugs going to the actual fog lights, but no relay. The fan control relay is shown though. The fog light relay is shown on the schematics I have from the FSM. Besides the switch on the dash being plugged in, nothing else is hooked up yet. Any idea where this relay is located?

Completely agree, it has to be a labor of love. For this reason it has to be a simple design. Compound bends are not simple, so square it off and see how it looks. It may not look perfect, but it may have that hardcore "custom" look that some like. I designed my own taillight boxes for my XJ before any of the aftermarket was doing it. They did not look as good as what the aftermarket companies put out there, but worked perfectly in my hardcore application.

What I am thinking here is a metal "frame" that people can buy aftermarket LED lights and mount them into. Similar to what many of the aftermarket companies have done for XJ's but it seems they could be so much simpler for the MJ's because it doesn't have to be a "box", My thought for mounting is you would need to mount the frames using the holes the lights would slide into for the outside mounts, and the inside mounts are simple enough. Shouldn't be hard to make as they can probably be mostly pressed/stamped. Just need a U shape, asthe structure will be added when they are mounted. Those would sell...

I liked running those outer seals for two reasons.. 1. The obvious of it keeps dirt out, and can help with a leaky inner seal if in good shape 2. It you do break a u-joint, it holds the inner shaft in better alignment to prevent the outer and inner shaft from binding and breaking the ball joints.

I would say the best possible combo is the 98 motor, the AX-15 trans and the 8.25 axle. The D44 will need regeared for sure, as it will have 3.07 gears. The 8.25 has 3.55's and with 32's /33's won't feel too sluggish with a 5 spd. Not enough to gain strength-wise with going to the D44 either. Weld the tubes to the center section on the 8.25 (if your planning on HD rock crawling) and run it. Also remember the 242 will have a 23 spline input (which will not match the 5 spd), while the 231 (being from 1990) will have the 21 spline input, matching the 5 spd. A.

I just recently learned of this place. I live about 20-30mins away. Going to check it out soon. The place used to be a Mall, and the current owner bought the place and turned it into a giant classic car store. A.

Rebuilding a steering box is not easy from what I was told. Its hard to keep from cutting the seals as you slip the assembly back into the housing, and the bearings are hard to keep in place as well. I would get a good re-manufactured unit.

Use the front axle, don't use the bumper, it will bend with the slightest force put on it with towing. Could also be the CPS, or the ignition coil distribution block. Should hear the fuel pump running when key is turned on. Turn key off/on 3 times, then turn on. Fuel pump will run then. Check for fuel pressure at the valve on the fuel rail under the hood.

Looks to me like he ground down the seam sealer (just a caulk material) that was preventing the blower motor from mounting flat to the fire wall, then used silicone to re-install and seal up around the blower motor. I am having a similar leak at the bottom of my blower motor, and just plan to put silicone in the bottom edge of the opening where it mounts, from the outside.

How are you converting the AX-15 to 4wd?