big66440

^^^ X2, kind of a pain in the @$$ to have to pull the head for lifters but there's no other way.

OK seems, simple enough I'll figure it out.

SK is a great choice too, and USA made. Agreed,,,, this is way too similar to the " Garage Journal " threads which happens to be my 2nd home :yes:

Thanks Hornbrod!! I just ordered mine, does it come with instructions?

^^^ Good luck, hope this that fixes it :thumbsup:

If you had air in the system it would feel spongy all the time, do you still have the rear height sensing valve?

I'd do all of cruisers tips to have a foundation for a better diagnosis down the line and everyone here will point you in that direction anyway. I did them and they fixed issues I didn't even know I had.

Leave it to Hornbrod to ALWAYS find a way to poke at us Renix owners :rotfl2:

at least i can reach those from below phew You should also replace the one in the back of the block since your going to be in there already,,,,, heck you may even want to do the rear main seal and pan gasket to be on the safe side. Whenever I do big repairs like that I try to kill as many birds with an M16 as possible :yes: .

Is there enough material where you can tap and rethread it? If I'm not mistaken the size you need would be 4 x.75. Here's a link https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/MS2530075A20000

Is this while you're driving the truck or just stepping on the pedal with the engine off in your driveway? if you have a pedal and it's safe to stop I would suggest driving the truck around the block. I had the same issue ( or thought I did) when I bypassed my load sensing valve and it turned out OK, my expectations of how the pedal would feel were different than what it actually turned out to be.

If it's getting harder to start you may want to look into this system, it is possible the hose inside of the tank might be " collapsing" causing a loss in pressure and therefore your bad idle or the pump might be on it's way out . Luckily the fuel pumps on our trucks are easily removable as long as you're below 1/2 a tank.

Like Crash said, if you don't have emissions testing in your state you can get rid of your EGR. If you do have emission testing and you go with a newer (non Renix) exhaust manifold you will have to adapt the EGR tube to the new system as well as the O2 sensor bung. All you need to run the newer HO manifold or header is the HO downpipe.

Not sure if it can be removed safely but the new one WILL have to be pressed in. I was able to install my pickup by heating up the oil pump with a mapp torch, putting a rag around the tube, resting the open end of a combination wrench on the bump and hammering it in. I got lucky and didn't cause too much damage but next time I will pay a shop to do it right, it's not worth the risk.

Same thing happened to my room mate's Tacoma years ago. Getting a cat is annoying enough but having to pay extra to get a CARB approved one is a real b*@$£.

Thanks for the info Nick, this monitor is some of the best money I've spent on my renix so far. Do you have any pointers on getting it to read transmission data? I checked voltage to pin 15 at the diagnostic connector ( key on engine off ) and it shows 5 volts.

Great!!! I love the heck out of my 2930's, thanks Hornbrod. :cheers:

Would you by any chance have experience on how good they work together with their 2930 springs?

I'd be interested in finding out where they got the rubber floor, it looks way better than the crap one I bought from ACC.

Another thing you could check would be your intake/exhaust manifold bolts. Its not uncommon for them to loosen up causing different kinds of problems, doesn't cost anything either.

SOLVED!!!! The ECM i got from ebay must have burned out my O2 sensors!!! I got a new NTK oxygen sensor and installed my old ECM and it did the trick!!. I must have not measured voltage correctly at the sensor, either way I'm glad it's over.

:eek: :drool: sweet and simple, just the way I like em.

Check your oxygen sensor heater element, if it's not working it can't stay in closed loop at all times and you will feel a vibration.

Hello Nick, I checked Voltage to pin 15 and I'm getting 5V with the key on and can't get a reading for the transmission on my monitor it still shows it's in 2nd gear all the time 0 RPM. I was wondering if there was a way to do a " hard reset" on the monitor. My O2 reading has been at 4.98 Volts and I've checked my O2 sensor circuit ( solid 12V+ to heater element, 5V reference and 0-1 ohms of resistance to ground), tried 2 known working O2's and switched ECM's back and forth many times with no luck. I started a thread on the forum looking for advise with some really helpful advise on my issue but still no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Welcome to the forum.