acfortier

This is pretty close to me, I've never seen it on the road, so that makes sense that it only has 29k miles, lol

I'd totally get one, I just severely dislike RHD drive manual vehicles. Something about shifting with my left hand/arm is annoying, lol.

I would start by just cleaning the contacts, first--mine didn't work, popped it open and scrubbed the corrosion on the contacts, and it worked fine after that. No soldering needed.

Put sound deadening on the interior roof, and started to put the interior back together before I realized I probably should replace the passenger's side door seal (since I have it). Took it off, and this is what I found: Not too surprised, but yeah, ugh. Wire wheeled it down to this: It's definitely going to need a patch. Also noticed this spot, directly under that one: Is it even worth covering up the hole in the door seal section in POR-15 until I take her in to get the floor patched?

Got the cargo light installed. Went with the aftermarket LED one over the stock one I have since it was a bit nicer. Used rivnuts to secure it, made a gasket out of 1/16" silicone rubber sheet. ...Yes, I know it's a little crooked. Ugh--I guess that's why I should use a punch to center my drill bit. Oh well, hardly noticeable to probably anyone else. In the cab, got the wiring all set--just grounded the light with a screw into the cab, ran a wire all the way over and down the B pillar towards the front. For the switch, spliced in power from another pink wire connector that was under there but not doing anything (maybe for footwell lights?) using a t-tap, and did the same for the light for the switch bezel, too. Everything works as it should! When I took the headliner down, the weight of it knocked my rear view mirror off (AGAIN). I can't seem to find a decent rear view mirror adhesive, but I had ordered Versachem 11109 and that seemed to hold a lot better (so far) since the adhesive was thicker than others. I probably mentioned it before, but I had scored a Donnelly mirror from some GMC vehicle awhile back, and got around to wiring it up by splicing into the courtesy lights at the B pillar and running the wires up. Should be a nice little upgrade. Decided to POR-15 the interior roof, and going to throw some Noico sound deadening on there, too. Then I *should* be able to button it up again and not have to worry about taking the headliner down another time, but we know how that goes.

Hmm, I bought that kit from Team Cherokee and it contained the correct screws IIRC

https://teamcherokee.com/products/grille-fastener-screw-nut-16-piece-set-cherokee-comanche-1987-1996.html If you want to get the exact OEM ones. I'm not sure what size they are, technically.

Even though mine is an HO, mine was definitely a mix of Renix and HO o-rings. Not really surprising, though. Best thing is to hit up a local store that sells o-rings by size and and grab one of each size. They're noticeably different between HO and Renix years.

Mine was like that, too. Hardened and flattened.

Looks like Crown makes a replacement: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-52002585-Radiator-Isolator/dp/B008VQ1Y8C

One of the members here has been making them for some time now: https://zimmdakindustries.com/product/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-mj-tailgate-bumpers-bushings/

Addco makes one that is for the MJ: https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23571 Got one in my basement, but it hasn't been installed yet.

I'm in for 4 of them.

It sounds like they include a harness with their tail lamps? Oh, I see--you're replacing the entire harness itself at the plug! Got it

Yeah, I'm still rocking 3.07s, lol. The one trailer my family has is a Big Tex 10PI, so it's about 2500 lbs. Tack on 3500 lbs. for the Eagle that needs to make it's way to me (all back roads) and we're pushing the limits without a brake controller, lol. I've still got a D44 with 3.55s sitting in the garage that needs to make it's way into the MJ, along with a regear from the front.

Got around to making up a harness for the 7-pin connector I'm installing. Was originally going to splice in some new connectors rather than use the '91 unobtainium ones, but I was able to buy a set (thanks @schardein!). Got that all mapped up and loomed up. The extra 2-pin weather pack is for the 12V+ accessory and the electric brake controller. I do plan on adding a brake controller, since the trailer I would be towing with this is a two-axle with brakes. Definitely wouldn't try it it without brakes, but with brakes should be OK... Here it is all installed. Drilled it into my crusty bumper for now. Would still like to find a cheap local Jeep Gladiator bumper and see if I can make that work, but here we are. Didn't take any pictures but was able to run the 12V+ and brake controller wires up between the gas tank and frame rail, and shoved the brake controller wire through the harness rubber plug that's behind the driver's seat. Was super tight, but about to get it shoved in there without too much hassle. Continued to run the black wire to the engine bay, and tucked in it with the vacuum line loom for the CAD. I had taken two terminals out of the '91 PDC that @schardein also got for me, and got them snuck into my PDC. Used the blank Maxi slot as well as one of the ABS ones in the PDC, and shot the wires out of the side. Spliced one in there for the 12V+, and the other one will be for the 12V+ for the brake controller, which I ran another wire across the engine bay and in the rubber grommet that has the hood release cable. Confirmed everything works at the 7-pin plug. Going to order a Curt Venturer and universal harness pigtail to splice into the cab. Surprised by how cheap they are--less than $40 from Amazon. Not bad!

I ended up soaping up the harness rubber plug and was able to fish a wire through using a coat hanger. Was definitely tight, but made it through. Did the same with the hood release grommet for going from the cab to the engine bay.

What's the best way to run a wire from inside the cab to the rear of the truck (for a brake controller)? There's the rubber plug where the rear harness goes through the cab, but I'm not sure if that's easy enough to use to run a couple more wires through?

Looking to get a pigtail to add in a cargo light switch to my MJ. Thanks!

I mean, kind of a silly question--what 30-40 year old vehicle, at any point in time (i.e. in 1980, cars from 1940-50), was considered safe? Industry is constantly making cars safer with more features than what was available in the 80s/90s, that's for sure. I think MJs are more dangerous now since there's a ton of folks on the road that love using their phone when they drive, but I digress (a bit, lol)

If you've had it for 2 weeks, and it just started doing this (assuming you were driving it in a similar fashion when the issue occurred), not sure if it'll be because you have the temp. sender (for an actual gauge) vs. temp. switch (for the light on the cluster). I'm not sure what symptoms they exhibit when they go bad, though, and they're probably cheap enough to replace.

Curious--what does this truck have for options/parts (other than the obvious diesel, lol) that are hard to find/normal trucks wouldn't have? More than welcome to look through my build, if you're serious/interested. Among other things that aren't in that thread are a NOS brush guard, Dana 44, front/rear sway bars, probably some other stuff I'm forgetting, lol

Hell, I’d be willing to trade you my ‘91 and all the spare parts with it to keep this one stock

Why not swap a diesel in to another Comanche? I would think keeping a factory diesel MJ stock as possible would be the way to go